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say my name bish
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Discussion Starter #1
been looking thru the many threads about this, and i had or thought i had all the proper info saved on my puter, but it was all lost when it crashed. below are the 2 links pertaing to the upgrade mosfet rectifier and wireharness. please let me know the correct mosfet rectifier package to buy, along with the correct plug-n-play wireharness. i want to get this ordered asap.


thanks guys.

mosfet rectifier
http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH012AA Regulator upgrade kit.htm

wire harness kit
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html
 

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Seems either one will work. The Roadstercycle link would be the best because you can get everything needed.

I did the swap on my Busa and ordered the connectors from Eastern Beaver, and just bought a used rectifier off a 04/05 zx10. Been a year and 10,000 trouble free miles.
 

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say my name bish
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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, but theres a certain mosfet rectifier in the link i provided above that is the one that is reccomended by many on here. as well as the correct wire harness needed in the 2nd link. but they list a few different wire harnesses. my 07 only has 2000 miles, and the opem rectifier looks brand new, im just not taking any chances wiht it pooping out on my down the road while at the track. so going for the upgrade way early. who knows, might even be able to flip the oem rectifier for a few bucks.
 

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In the first link. Buy the 95 dollar one that is all the way down on the right side. (just the unit)

in the 2nd link, buy the Part A and buy the part B harness (20")
Then buy 1 of the Metri-Pack 280 Connector (get a few more of the little metal prongs in case you screw one up.

You will cut off the existing shitty OEM plug off the stator, and put this nice metripac sealed plug onto the end of the stator.
The guy Jim at eastern is a real good guy. He ships out of Japan and you get your stuff pretty quick.

Any other questions pm me if you want.

This is very easy to do.

I opted to also relocate mine,

this is the only shitty pic i have. sry/

 

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say my name bish
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Discussion Starter #5
sweet, thanks bro. exactly what ive been looking for. I have one of two HID ballasts mounted on the same oem rect bracket. so was thinking fo mounting it on the riders right side of the bike like moto joe or anthonyD did. i think it was one of them. time to order my new rectifier kit. do i need to crack the stator housing to wire it up? or is it cut-n-splice on the old wire harness?


ot, you cnc those frame slider brackets? nice work!
 

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sweet, thanks bro. exactly what ive been looking for. I have one of two HID ballasts mounted on the same oem rect bracket. so was thinking fo mounting it on the riders right side of the bike like moto joe or anthonyD did. i think it was one of them. time to order my new rectifier kit. do i need to crack the stator housing to wire it up? or is it cut-n-splice on the old wire harness?


ot, you cnc those frame slider brackets? nice work!
The wire coming out of the stator will be located under the tank. You just disconnect it an cut the oem plug off the stator. Then you crimp and solder on the new plug (metripac plug)
 

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say my name bish
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Discussion Starter #8
The wire coming out of the stator will be located under the tank. You just disconnect it an cut the oem plug off the stator. Then you crimp and solder on the new plug (metripac plug)
got it. thats what i thought was the splicing process.

thanks again. and thats the thread i was referring to, iirc. now i just need to heat my garage and finish my bike build before track season gets here. and somewhat finish it for the detroit IMS show (international motorcycle show) on jan 7th. i was asked by my club to display my bike. :)
 

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Basically, it goes like this. Lift the tank, remove the air box. Find the plug coming off the Voltage regulator. One of them plugs into the harness, the other to the stator. Disconnect both. Cut the oem plug off the stator. Attach the new metripac plug on. Attach the new mosfet on bike. One of the new eastern beaver harness goes from the mosfet to the stator, the other plug wires go directly to the battery.
The one that goes to the battery has the "inline fuse"

It is very easy man.:cheers
 

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say my name bish
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2,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
ive removed the oem rectifier many times trying to mount/refit one of teo big ass hid ballasts and rect on the same bracket. those 2 connectors are a PITA to seperate. lol

thanks again Pro!

off to spend more money. now if i can get a vendor to give me a hell of a price on a 520/sprocket kit, power 1 tires, renthal dual compound grips, fork/axle sliders, and a TTX rear shock, ill be doing even better and just about complete my build. paging disco, stg, MM.
 

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Yes, those 2 plugs were a pita for me to seperate as well.

also, keep in mind that you need to keep the mosfet unit somewhat near where the oem mounts. Only cause if you move it too far fwd, the wires going to the battery may come up short in length!

Where mine is located, the wires just make it (not tight tho) If needed, you could try to see if he can supply them a bit longer, but I thought I read that he wont do it or else you need to use a thicker gage wire?
 

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My R/R just went out, I believe. I got the MOFSET unit just like described in this thread however I did not get the metripack unit. I have one question, I see how the new unit connects to the battery, that is not my concern. But there are 2 plugs coming off the OEM unit that both connect to the harness under the tank. On the aftermarket unit, I have only 1 connector that plugs back into the harness underneath the tank, the other going to the battery. Here are pics of the other connectors I am wondering about, as I do not have anything to plug into this port.

Here is a pic of the connector under the tank:



Here is one of the connector at the OEM R/R unit:




Is this maybe where the OEM unit connected to the battery? Thanks for the help.
 

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You leave the other plug alone. Nothing goes to it.
So, you are using the stock plug that is on the stator? These are known to melt.
This is the reason you go the the metripack plug. It is sealed and watertight.
 

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Looking for fat chicks for long walks, romance and
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Ok that's what I thought. I will cap it off.

Yes, I am using the stock plug that is on the stator. Do you think this is the reason my OEM R/R went bad? The connector looks fine upon visual inspection. They sent me one that looks exactly the same but black...even though I did not buy the metripack. I could replace the OEM unit with this one or the metripack option, I suppose. I have never soldered anything though, and I do not have a soldering iron. This is why I went the route I did, just to be safe.

I did read your recommendation and I almost went with the metripack. I just didnt want to have to solder anything and accidentally fudge things up.
 

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Try it the way you have it. Also, make sure when it is all done, start the bike and put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and make sure it is charging.
I think the OEM just cant take the heat. Post up here with your results when done.
 

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Looking for fat chicks for long walks, romance and
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Ok, thanks again for the help. I am currently getting my battery charged at a local shop, as it was dead. I have class tonight so I won't be able to pick it up until tomorrow. I am also going to be buying a battery tender to try to help out.

I'll make sure to check the battery terminals when the bike is running.

I live in a pretty temperate climate so I may or may not experience extreme heat...knocking on wood...hopefully the OEM connector will work. If not, I'm sure I can learn to solder haha.
 

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Looking for fat chicks for long walks, romance and
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ok so I got it all put back together and the bike starts and idles fine. It is pouring rain here and I don't really like to ride in the rain...so unfortunately I have not road tested it.

I put my multimeter up to the battery while it was idling and the voltage was sitting around 12.5 volts and if I brought the rpms up a little bit, the voltage would go up as high as 14 volts or so. But I didn't rev it above 6,000 rpm so I don't know if the voltage gets higher as you get higher in the rpm range.

I will be keeping it on a battery tender until it dries up and then I'll be able to road test it. Looking at the weather forecast though, that won't be for a month or two.

Thanks again for the help.


EDIT: Checking the service manual, the voltage is supposed to go up to about 14 v when you hold the rpms at 5,000 so apparently my bike is running normally again. I'll just have to wait and see how it does on the road.
 

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say my name bish
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Discussion Starter #18
SVS or Moto Joe, do you think you might be able to make this a sticky, since this is a kinda hot topic lately wiht some pretty specific info as to what mosfet rectifier and wiring harness is needed to make the RR swap on our 06/07 bikes? it might be easier for others to find instead of digging thru pages and pages of RR/mosfet info?

just an idea.
 

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The rectifier displaces excess electricity in the form of heat. Suzuki placed the RR right in front of the engine....lots of heat....rectifier is also sensitive to melting and really high heats. By relocating it you can keep it cooler and increase longevity.
 
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