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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I just picked up an 09 GSXR 1000 and it came with an M4 GP slip-on (cat removed) and K&N. See attached pic for pic of exhaust.

It also came with a PCV which isn't installed. Was looking at putting the PCV on but what map should I run?

I don't see any M4-specific maps on the PC website, although I see a few options for slip-on exhaust with removed cats:

- 20-007-005 Yoshi single slip-on (eliminates catalytic converter)
- 20-007-008 Two Brothers single slip-on (eliminates catalytic converter)

Should I just use any of those 2 maps or is there something better suited? Not looking at buying an autotune or anything else. Just wondering what the best map I can load would be.

Thanks!
 

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Don't even bother downloading those maps. I have a full M4 exhaust on my L2 and tried several maps and it made my bike run like shit from 10K rpm up! Ran best on zero map on fuel controller and using the ECU's stock fuel map from factory.

It would be best just to take it to a reputable tuner and it get it custom mapped. Probably free up and extra 8hp by doing so. Also look getting your stock ECU reflashed to remove all restrictions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't even bother downloading those maps. I have a full M4 exhaust on my L2 and tried several maps and it made my bike run like shit from 10K rpm up! Ran best on zero map on fuel controller and using the ECU's stock fuel map from factory.

It would be best just to take it to a reputable tuner and it get it custom mapped. Probably free up and extra 8hp by doing so. Also look getting your stock ECU reflashed to remove all restrictions.
So what's the point of those maps if it runs better on map 0? Actually what's the point of the PCV itself (without the extra gadgets like quickshifter)?

To get a custom map, is that something that is created for the PCV and then loaded onto it?

What's the ECU flashing about and who makes these flashes?
 

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So what's the point of those maps if it runs better on map 0? Actually what's the point of the PCV itself (without the extra gadgets like quickshifter)?

To get a custom map, is that something that is created for the PCV and then loaded onto it?

What's the ECU flashing about and who makes these flashes?
A PCV does nothing by itself. It needs to be mapped for it to do anything, be it a downloadable map or a custom map.

To get a custom map, you would take your bike and $300 to a good dyno tuner. They will put the bike on a dyno with a sniffer, and make adjustments to your afr in real time for the mods on your bike, to maximize HP and get the correct afr so you don't blow your motor.

ECU flashing is done by sending your ecu to a shop that does it. They will flash a generic fuel map, and remove some factory features/restrictions from the code. Dano's Performance is a site sponsor, and they do ecu flashing. Woolich Racing is another, and they are one of the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ended up getting an Auto Tune kit for my PCV. That should be the ideal tune.

Currently have an issue there the bike stops accelerating at 10K rpm in 3rd gear (if you're on it at least 50% throttle), and I think it's because I have a slip-on with the factory 02 sensor capped with a resistor. So the factory ECU is getting a constant, fake air/fuel reading from the resistor. And yes this implies my PCV is not yet installed. I'm hoping installing it along with the auto-tune will fix my problem.
 

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Let us know how the auto tune works for you. People usually put the AFR at 13.2:1 across the full map and are fine with that. But remember, a good tuner will tune for most hp, not some magical AFR ratio. For example, there were some areas in my bikes fuel map that made more power at a AFR ratio of 12.8 than at 13.2. But you will need to be on a dyno to see that.

But just keeping it at 13.2 is good as long as your happy with how it runs.

Good luck man!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok final update on this thread: instead of installing the auto-tune and PCV, I thought maybe it's better to stop throwing mods at the bike, and go back to stock. So I put the stock cat & mufflers back on, and hooked up the 02 sensor to the stock cat. It was disconnected while the cat wasn't on the bike, and capped off with a resistor to send a fake signal back to the ECU. We suspected this was causing the bike's high-load acceleration issues.

Sure enough, that fixed the problem. No more hesitations at any rpm. I am happy with my bike again.

Will look into putting the slip-on back on, but leaving the cat in place.
 

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This is a very basic set-up many of us here run on our bikes.

Order a power commander from motomummy and have them pre-load the correct map in there so all you need to do is install it and go.

If you havent already, remove the SET valve in the exhaust and use PAIR block-off plates or use the marble trick to plug the hose.This will eliminate any weird running issues/backfiring etc. There is multiple threads on here how to do everything i mentioned

Bike runs wayyyy better with cat deleted and these mods done.
 
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