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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am going to start this thread up again, if you have info to go in here just PM it to me and I will post it in this thread, and will give credit for the contribution.


For exactly what we are talking about, look at this...........................

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0Kz1YAtFp4

 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Forks
GixxerRacer317 said:

92-93 GSXR 600 (USA) Water Cooled.
91-92 GSXR 750 (USA) Oil Cooled.
92 GSXR 750 (Canadian) Water Cooled.
93 GSXR 750 (USA) Water Cooled.

These are all Showa's and as far as the cartridge is concerned they should all be the same as long as the valve is being replaced with the Race Tech Gold Valve.

The 94-95 GSXR 750 used Showa Forks but I believe the internals are different as well as the diameter of the slider is smaller (41mm vs 43mm).

The 91-98 GSXR 1100 used Kayaba forks.
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Petcock
Bobbychet said:
32GSXR-D-AH for the part# of the Petcock and. The adapter plate, A1702C-O, 600/750 or 1100 watercooler
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Rotors

GixxerRacer317 said:

Interchangable Rotors

Slotted Rotors
92-93 GSXR 600 W
91-93 GSXR 750 W
89-98 GSXR 1100 W

Drilled Rotors
88-90 GSXR 750
94-95 GSXR 750 W

Possible matches..... these use 310mm diameter rotors and 3/4" offsets but they are listed with different part numbers by aftermarket companies..... not sure of the differences so buy at your own risk.

94-98 RF900
01-05 Bandit 1200
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Models / Years

Dave94GSXR1100 Said:


Duh...


GSX-R1100W 1993 (P)

GSX-R1100W 1994 (R)

GSX-R1100W 1995 (S)

GSX-R1100W 1996 (T)

GSX-R1100W 1997 (V)

GSX-R1100W 1998 (W)
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Digital Age

RavenNH said:

Okay well this thread will be a how to/write up on converting our watercooled guage to 2001+ guages.
with pictures.. yes folks pictures lol.

Things you will need.
Gauges 40-200$ ( i paid 40 with scuffed clear cover been polished out however)

speedo sensor 30-60$ shipped
SPEED SENSOR BOLT no more than 15$ ( ebay jmrmotorsports had them)
aluminum or other suitable material 3x8 for bracket and 1 2x3 piece.
1. 2 inch flat washer small hole you'll enlarge later.

4 bolts with 2-4 matching nuts
2 5/8's or bigger spacers about 1/4 long.
( i used the fairing washer things looks like this =| ( had extra layin around)
1. expired bic pen or equivelent. ( dont ask yet)
rubber grommets/nuts from existing guages.
2 bolts for the above nuts. 1 inch long abouts.



this is picture with it mounted, front plate is off due to me polishing it up
first up is the bracket. This mounts on existing stay only slight modification to the original bracket is to bend it downwards towards headlights ( this is for master cycl could hit it on full left steering lock, usually with aftermarket clipons.



okay picture is the bracket, you dont need to make the fancy curves and whatnot well you do on the top part. picture is how it should be mounted. the 2 large holes are for the new gauges to mount to via push in rubber grommets.
The top most holes ( where black lines are ) is about stock setupup on mounting.
the second set of holes ( bottom pair of the black lined ones) is to push guages closer upward towards windshield/headlights about 3/4 of an inch. this is to clear aftermarket clip ons mounted below triple clamp. picture should be to scale in photoshop view as 110% for true scale. its about 6x3.
So you can print this and cut out/template.
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #7
Carb Removal

crzoomb said:
The choke cable is spring loaded,just grab the steel L shaped part coming off the carbs and pull to the left and then forward,then slide the cable out of the choke rail.Some people like to disconnect the cables from the carbs,I prefer to disconnect them from the throttle tube.There are 2 cable adjusters at the bottom of the throttle,spin those so there is full slack in both cables ,remove the 2 philips head screws from the switchgear and slide the cables off the tube,pay attention to where the pull and push cables go.I'm sure someone else can offer tips too..We're all a crafty bunch

About the carbs. Pull the seats and rear plastics off,remove the airbox cover,loosen the 4 airbox boot screws and pull the airbox back towrds the rear of the bike,the back of the carbs should be exposed now,Then loosen the 4 screws holding the carbs to the inlet boots,pull the carbs back and slide them out to the right of the chassis.Remember to drain them as the float bowls are full of gas.. unless you want a small fuel bath.If possible let the bike sit in the sun with the tank off an hour or so before removal,this will make the rubber boots more flexable and make life a bit easier on you
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #9
Bearings

fredybender said:
Ok guys!
Bearings: PLease find attached...
Take a look in your yellow pages, for your local industrial bearing distributor; You will see savings up to 80% on bearings
Here is my listing for a 750:
BTW it includes the race when you order though bearing place...

Front wheel bearing NSK 6204DU
Rear wheel bearing Same
Upper steering NTN 4T 32005X
Lower steering NTN 4T 32006X
Swing armTKO TA2530Z
rear suspension & linksKOYO BKM2024JAU (6)KOYO BHKM1726JUU (1)Transmission primary shaft koyo 20NQ3418W10DNTN 6305NX7V1
Driven shaft KOYO 20NQ3420EW11D
KOYO 63/28-3/20NSLT

Hope this helps, you will save big $$$, and they will have those in stock at 99.9% sure!!!

Fred
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
1100 Wheelie Wire

Bobbychet said:
Fastcat said (Look at the leads coming out of your neutral-sensor. If you have one wire on the neutral-sensor, then you do not have a "wheelie wire". If you have two leads, then one controls the neutral-light, and the other controls the signal to tell the ECU to retard the ignition in 1st-gear. If you are painstaking about it, you can use a scribe or icepick kinda tool and remove one of the connectors from the plastic terminal-block that both wires go into - if the one you remove renders your neutral-light ineffective, then you got the wrong one and need to put it back and remove the other one.

It didn't really make any noticeable difference on mine. )
bugzee98 said:
found it,did it,holy shit.i have a 98 1100,found the two wires,and yes,it was the one with the stripe.i turned the key on,put it in neutral so the light came on,unplugged the connector,cut the wire with the stripe like you said,plugged it back together and the neutral light stayed on.just got back from a nice cruise and my wheel had no problem coming up.this sight is great,you guys who leave this feedback are even better.thanx nick.
Jlt said:
Here is where is the wheelie wire, left ahnd side of the bike, mine was in a conector so i didnt neet to cut the wire, i will simply just tape it off so if i want to reinstall it it will be no problem, to do the job easily you will have to remove the tail plastic but you can probably do it without removing it... CLICK ON THE PIC TO ENLARGE

Step one locate the Wheelie wire (Ether Pink or Red/Black, Red arrow in pic) and the neutral wire (Blue, yellow arrow in pic)



Step 2 disconect the wheelie wire



Step 3 enjoy

 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #11
Forks

fredybender said:
91-92-93 forks are 41-U bodies, meaning they are 41mm

91-92 are the same with 35mm springs with .736kg/mm rate

93 are on their own: they use the same 41mm but have 36mm springs rated at .766kg/mm

94-95 are totally different from the others:
They use 43-U (43mm) bodies : Both forks are exactly the same except that the 94's are blue anodized; they both use 38mm springs, rated stock at .800 kg/mm
 

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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #12

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Premium Member
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I saw the oil-cooled guys have this so I thought we should to :cheers

http://www.mydrive.ch/

Username: oltrusty
Password : trusty
 
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