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Discussion Starter #1
So I was riding towards home and out of nowhere my bike died and had no power to nothing . I found out that the Voltsge regulator went bad , the bike is like 50 miles from where I live on a gas station my friend picked me up and I went home and took battery and voltage regulator from my 05 gsxr 1000 the connectors looked the same . I plugged it into my gsxr 600 and it had power only to gauges , when I turned the key in neutral I hear no noises from fuel pump or relays but it cranks. Could it be that relays went bad too ? Or is just the voltage regulator different for the 600 . Is there anyway I can ride it home , any bypass , no dealer around has this part in stock it will take few days Till it comes , and what else could went bad with the regulator ?
 

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Typically when a regulator goes out, it overcharges the battery. It's entirely possible you damaged the ecu or cooked ypur battery. There will be a number of tests you need to do to effectively assess the situation. Have the battery load tested and make sure its not toast. Put a known good battery in the bike and see if the electrical issues clear up, replace the regulator and test the stator to make sure its not damaged as well
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Typically when a regulator goes out, it overcharges the battery. It's entirely possible you damaged the ecu or cooked ypur battery. There will be a number of tests you need to do to effectively assess the situation. Have the battery load tested and make sure its not toast. Put a known good battery in the bike and see if the electrical issues clear up, replace the regulator and test the stator to make sure its not damaged as well
How can I test the startor ? I have good battery from my other bike I can use , the one I had in the 600 is bad , shows 8.7V
 

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I'm going to go out on a long limb here and suggest that you disconnect the stator, put a fully charged battery into the bike, remove the low beam fuse, and see if it will run. You're running in total loss mode. It would be best if you push started (find a mild slope). Ride straight home with a friend following in a car with another battery. If it dies, swap batteries and keep going. It should be possible to rig things up so that he is recharging the dead battery in the car while you ride with the other. 50 miles may be pushing it but 25 ought to be doable. This will get you home where you can work on things at your leisure. Don't connect or disconnect the battery while the ignition is on.

P.S. After thinking about this some more I'm inclined to say that my total loss scheme may be too complicated and risky. A cargo van can be rented from U-Haul for short term use that won't cost that much and will hold the bike. You'll need a ramp of some sort.
 

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I'd like to second Bill's suggestion, mostly because I'd be interested in empirical evidence of how long a bike like ours can run in total loss with the headlights off, and because it doesn't sound that risky, if escorted and provided the road has a place where you can safely pull over, if needed. I'm a bit troubled about the part where the bike would crank but not prime though. Did that happen with the battery from your 1000? Does it say CHEC on the gauges, even though the bike is in neutral, sidestand up,stop switch on RUN, etc.? If so, you might have more problems than a fresh battery could fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd like to second Bill's suggestion, mostly because I'd be interested in empirical evidence of how long a bike like ours can run in total loss with the headlights off, and because it doesn't sound that risky, if escorted and provided the road has a place where you can safely pull over, if needed. I'm a bit troubled about the part where the bike would crank but not prime though. Did that happen with the battery from your 1000? Does it say CHEC on the gauges, even though the bike is in neutral, sidestand up,stop switch on RUN, etc.? If so, you might have more problems than a fresh battery could fix.
Now that I put new regulator in my bike , everything connected bike won’t crank and fuel pump not priming . Oh and the ignition fuse keeps blowing when I put kill switch to ON position . Is it possible that the ecu went bad ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd like to second Bill's suggestion, mostly because I'd be interested in empirical evidence of how long a bike like ours can run in total loss with the headlights off, and because it doesn't sound that risky, if escorted and provided the road has a place where you can safely pull over, if needed. I'm a bit troubled about the part where the bike would crank but not prime though. Did that happen with the battery from your 1000? Does it say CHEC on the gauges, even though the bike is in neutral, sidestand up,stop switch on RUN, etc.? If so, you might have more problems than a fresh battery could fix.
Now that I put new regulator in my bike , everything connected bike won’t crank and fuel pump not priming . Oh and the ignition fuse keeps blowing when I put kill switch to ON position . Is it possible that the ecu went bad ?
I took off the ecu and it cranked , but no fuel pump priming , I think the ecu is fried
 

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The ECM gets its power through the Ignition fuse, which is probably 10 amp on yours. But so does the PAIR solenoid, the ignition coils, the fuel pump relay coil, and the fan relay coil (at least on my K6 1000). I'd try isolating things. There ought to be a distribution block on top of the valve cover that splits power to the coils. It's just a white connector with a black cover and a jumper inside. Remove the jumper and see if the fuse still blows when the ECM is connected. You've already tried unplugging the ECM with, I gather, the fan relay connected. But that also involved the coils. ECMs can fail but they have some degree of protective circuity for things like R/R failures. I suspect that there's a short somewhere else. Get a service manual if you don't have one and check the O/W lead out of the kill switch in the wiring diagram.

P.S. I have a K6 600 service manual and the above mentioned distribution block can be seen between the #3 & #4 coils in the LOCATION OF ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS pics (9-6).
 

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+1 to what Bill said above. When you disconnect the ECU, you don't just remove this one part, but break a lot of other connections, both immediately, through the disconnection of the ECU couplers, as well as indirectly, since the ECU controls power to certain devices (such as the fuel pump). You should therefore determine, as far as possible, that the ECU is indeed the root of the problem before replacing it. Note that the K6/7 service manual I have seems to have the fuses wrong in the wiring diagram. Fuse #4 is labeled as the ignition fuse, but is obviously the signal fuse. The ignition fuse is fuse #3 with the O/Y wire coming out of it, which soon enters into the unlabeled box next to the fuse box, (call it the sidestand relay or ignition interlock box) and emerges O/B, then turns O/W at the engine stop switch, and from there powers: the ignition coils, the cooling fan relay, the fuel pump relay, the ECU and the immobilizer (if equipped).

Try disconnecting all of them, except for the ECU and see if the fuse still blows.
 
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