[iam1000k7]

Before I pulled out the motor for a rebuilt, bike was starting fine, except in hot temp, it will crank 4 to 6 times before it starts. cold start is great. motor sounds like dying after warmed up, but it went to normal after 10 minutes of ride. Sometimes plenty of white smoke when cold start, after it warmed, the smoke goes away. Idle was fine but it once went up to 1500 for one hour and the next it drop back to 1000. So i decided to rebuilt the motor to rid this problem. Now that motor is back, it can't fire up, exactly as the video in the 1st page of this thread. Been reading up for hours on this thread, these are the following that I did hopefully to resolve this startup issue. I did the following

new crankshaft sensor,
throttle body cleaned,
new fuel pump,
new plugs,

still it won't start, just kept cranking unless throttle is applied. but it will dies when throttle is released.

next did today

cleaned Isc valve and hoses
cleaned Vacuum hoses (saw a good amount of black dirt came off)
rechecked Valve clearance, saw that 6 exhaust valves are at min tolerances, will be waiting for my shims to adjust them to the highest tolerances.

hopefully it will startup and runs well.

 

[iam1000k7]

an update. my bike fires quick and idles well. warm start was quick with 2 cranks. This thread helped me and gave me a direction to look for in solving my frustrating startup issue. I did the following:

adjusted my exhaust valves clearance to the highest tolerances
changed CKP sensor
Cleaned ISC valve and hoses
Cleaned Vacuum hoses

thank you guys, you guys are awesome.

 

[Cdm1979]

Hey guys - just wanted to let you all know that this fix - has apparently worked for me - I took the bike apart - replaced the T's and vacuum lines and performed a cold start ( im in canada, and doing this work before winter storage) at 1 degree, and she started right up - no hesistation. Thanks to all that have added there two cents and worked so hard to finally get this resolved will the dealership couldn't.

 

[Krytoigsxr]

https://youtu.be/hekRZDy9Sfw


My problem like in the video but it won’t start on less I crank the throttle and hold it past 4K rpm until it reaches 140F. Need help

 

[Jtrudel90]

I know there’s almost 1400 posts on this topic ... I had the original issue as the video in post #1, I changed the ISC , ( specs in the manual we’re not correct) set the primary and secondary TPS as per manual took off the vacuum lines and checked for leaks. None of this solved the issue. And it would continue to randomly act like the original video. So I would leave it and the next time I would attempt to start it it would fire right up.

Long story short if I disconnected the map sensor electrical connector the square cube sensor that the vacuum lines go to and the bike fired right up and idled correctly. It did have an fi light but idled perfect. The sensor is the same part as the AP sensor under the seat. If you want swap the 2 around.

I then plugged the vacuum lines coming off the intake to the MAP sensor and applied vacuum with the sensor plugged in, if the map doesn’t see vacuum the bike won’t stay running.

I replaced the MAP and haven’t had an issue since

 

[bjoshua1002]

Did you try turning up the idle a bit? it seems low

couldnt be the idle, it sounds like a diesel

 

[gary916]

The guy at Suzuki suggested a new ECU next. So we'll see when it comes in. :dunno

Yes, very frustrating to buy a brand new bike and have to deal with this kinda shit. :thumbdown

Don't get a new ECU. I purchased a perfectly good ECU from a parted one making sure it was from the same generation, and it didn't solve my problem. My L2 is experiencing the problem identical to yours. I'm suspecting throttle body sync but I only have 8K miles on this bike. Since it happened "overnight" I still believe something failed. Leak down test in the works as well to test valves just in case, but the all the plugs look great and as it was mentioned in previous posts, the bike runs perfectly well when warm (+120 F ).

 

[c0505]

I know there’s almost 1400 posts on this topic ... I had the original issue as the video in post #1, I changed the ISC , ( specs in the manual we’re not correct) set the primary and secondary TPS as per manual took off the vacuum lines and checked for leaks. None of this solved the issue. And it would continue to randomly act like the original video. So I would leave it and the next time I would attempt to start it it would fire right up.

Long story short if I disconnected the map sensor electrical connector the square cube sensor that the vacuum lines go to and the bike fired right up and idled correctly. It did have an fi light but idled perfect. The sensor is the same part as the AP sensor under the seat. If you want swap the 2 around.

I then plugged the vacuum lines coming off the intake to the MAP sensor and applied vacuum with the sensor plugged in, if the map doesn’t see vacuum the bike won’t stay running.

I replaced the MAP and haven’t had an issue since

I'm having the exact same issue but when I swap the IAP for the AP it doesn't make any difference.

Have replaced vacuum line/t's without success.

If I unplug the IAP it idles perfectly.

Surely both can't be dead can they? Any ideas guys?

 

[c0505]

I'm having the exact same issue but when I swap the IAP for the AP it doesn't make any difference.

Have replaced vacuum line/t's without success.

If I unplug the IAP it idles perfectly.

Surely both can't be dead can they? Any ideas guys?

Strangely sucking on the hose to the IAP causes the bike to idle quite well. Thinking both my IAP and AP could be dud. Failing that possibly a vacuum leak but have sprayed carb cleaner all over the throttle bodies to no avail.