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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,


EDIT : I realized I didn’t post in the correct section. Please move this subject to GSXR1000 L7 section. Thx



On my previous bike (GSXS), I have installed a usb charger for my phone. I managed to get a + after ignition by derivating the front light beam with a quick connector.
Never had any problem

On this bike, I want to do it differently. I want to start from the battery.
I purchased a Quadlock USB charger.


I have two questions :
  1. what is the best cable routing from the battery to the handlebar ?  I think I have to lift up the tank and attach the cable to the frame with zip ties, but which side…?
  2. I want to supply power with the battery but with a relay too (Bosch 4 pins), in order to avoid sending power when bike is off. Which + after ignition connector under the seatpost can I use to plug on the relay ?
  3. Rectangle Font Parallel Number Circle



Thanks all.
 

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I just bought an optimate charging cable that attaches to battery and lives under pillion seat. Then bought a USB charger that attaches to that. :)
 

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That’s Mister Chalet to you ....
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This isn't really a 2017 1000 question, it's universal. Just look at the wiring diagram and pick a switched 12V circuit with a fuse that can handle another amp or two. Test with a multi meter before tearing in and do a clean splice (as in not those cheap-assed crimp-on connectors). As for location, that depends on where you want your phone, do you have a stem mount etc.... stick it where it suits your purposes.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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The wiring diagram indicates that there's an extra unused fuse, #6, on the non-ABS model. That could be useful if it has all the terminals, etc. The W lead from the ignition switch feeds the Ignition, Signal, Headlight High, and Dimmer fuses (#2, 3, 4, and 5). So you could also connect it to the #6 and then to your charger. What I don't care for there is that it's hot whenever the ignition switch is on. The Dimmer fuse feeds a Y/R lead to the engine stop switch and from it a Y lead runs to the headlight dimmer switch. The engine stop switch cuts power to the Y lead when the starter is cranking, which is generally preferred. It would be better if you could tap into it or the O lead that it changes to at the dimmer switch. There's a W lead from the dimmer switch for the low beam that changes to W/Bl and runs to the Headlight Low fuse. You could also tap into it, which would bring you back to the fuse block. You'd only be charging when the low beam was on but that doesn't sound like a big deal.
 
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