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Discussion Starter · #1 ·



Awesome guys at Dynatek!

in case you are wondering just what it is:
The Dyna 2000 Digital Performance Ignition for four cylinder engines represents a breakthrough in motorcycle ignition flexibility. The Dyna 2000 system consists of a state of the art microprocessor controlled ignition module along with an adjustable Dyna dual sensor crank trigger. For the first time you can actually set the ignition timing to what you want to maximize engine performance. A number of different advance curve modes and a broad range rev limiter let you tailor the ignition to your needs. The Dyna 2000 also has the following built in features.

FULLY STATIC TIMEABLE- You can set the timing accurately to the desired value without having the engine running.

INDEPENDENT 1/4 2/3 CYLINDER TIMING- The Dyna dual sensor crank trigger uses one sensor for cylinders 1 & 4 and the other cylinder for 2 & 3 allowing you to accurately set the timing for each cylinder pair.

BUILT-IN STATIC TIMING LIGHT- An LED light built into the Dyna 2000 ignition module allows you to monitor the crank trigger signal status and easily set the ignition timing.

FIVE DIFFERENT ADVANCE CURVES- You can advance slowly to dial out pinging on high compression motors or bring the advance in quickly on quick revving motors or select a curve in between to maximize the performance of your combination.

FOUR DIFFERENT RETARD MODES- The Dyna 2000 is an ideal solution for turbo or nitrous combinations.

TEST MODE- System check out and troubleshooting is a breeze with this feature.

SAFETY INTERLOCK INPUT- You can keep your side stand safety switch functional or hook up a theft prevention switch, or activate a shift lever kill for road racing.

BROAD RANGE REV LIMITER- The Dyna 2000 rev limiter is adjustable from 8500 to 16,000 rpm to let you run in any range you want.

DIGITAL TACH OUTPUT- Your tachometer will run smooth and accurate, even at the rev limit.

HIGH ENERGY- An innovative dwell control scheme maximizes spark energy all the way to 16,000 rpm! The Dyna 2000 can be used with 2.2 ohm or 3 ohm coils.

EASY MOUNTING- The Dyna 2000 ignition module has built in frame saddles to make mounting anywhere a breeze.

COMPLETE WIRING HARNESS- The Dyna 2000 kit includes a complete wiring harness to simplify installation.

LOW COST!- The Dyna 2000 system in most cases costs less than a stock ignition box.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">
 

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Originally posted by Mr Gixxer:
my little guy was playing with them too

did you start to install it yet?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">No, I snapped that picture a moment after I saw your post:D My daughter digs the magazines more than the parts. I'm going to start the assembly process after I came back from Hawaii on the 31st. I got a call from APE this morning, they are waiting on the pistons to arraive. The 907 sleeves are in and they have the Titanium Valve retainers, and cam chain tensioner ready to go. It will get here just as I'm leaving for Hawaii next week. The first couple of weeks of April are going to frantic. I've got to get my bike together before a local cycle show the 3rd weekend and the Slimey Crud Rally the first weekend in May....I'll be nursing it while properly breaking in the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by Simon Orttan:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by Mr Gixxer:
my little guy was playing with them too

did you start to install it yet?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">No, I snapped that picture a moment after I saw your post:D My daughter digs the magazines more than the parts. I'm going to start the assembly process after I came back from Hawaii on the 31st. I got a call from APE this morning, they are waiting on the pistons to arraive. The 907 sleeves are in and they have the Titanium Valve retainers, and cam chain tensioner ready to go. It will get here just as I'm leaving for Hawaii next week. The first couple of weeks of April are going to frantic. I've got to get my bike together before a local cycle show the 3rd weekend and the Slimey Crud Rally the first weekend in May....I'll be nursing it while properly breaking in the motor.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">what are you planning to do with the stock wiring harness?

I don't know if I want to strip all the unused wires and connectors out of mine, or just piggypack on the new stuff

also who are you dealing with at APE?

I am waiting to hear back from Jay Eshbach (been a while now) on some goodies for the project bike
 

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NICE!!!

will those work on a 86 gsxr750??
where did you get them from ? i life on the other side of canada, Nova Scotia.
sound like a good deal if you ask me !

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by youngGixxer:
NICE!!!

will those work on a 86 gsxr750??
where did you get them from ? i life on the other side of canada, Nova Scotia.
sound like a good deal if you ask me !

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">yup the kit works on your bike too

replaces stock black box (good cause they are shitty)

It came right from the factory - I get lots of free stuff for running this site


it would normally cost about $400.00 US for the above stuff
 

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damn man thats a very sweet deal!
hmmmmmm you should hook someone up with those kind of deals!
heheheheh *ME*

sounds like you know how to get the good stuff at the bestest best price
 

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I hadn't actually sat down and mapped out were I want to run the wires. Heck, I haven't even read the owners manual/installation guide yet. I want to preserve as much of the original wiring as possible. Some time in the future if my LTD is ever actually worth more than the sum of its parts I'll have all these Rubbermaids (KJ1-like kind of
) of the original parts that can replace the modified items.

I've got a bit of a flow chart for the work...

1-install the new block and valve head.
2-finalize the plumbing for the undertail oil cooler.
3-install the 38mm carbs with correct jets
4-put the repaired Hindle parts back on.
5-Install Dyna 2000 system
6-Hope I have my seat back from Sargent Cycle
7-Get it tuned(using the Dyno at Sutter's Speed Shop) to make sure the jetting is "correct"
8-Install "new" repainted/enlarged fuel tank with Pingle petcock
9-figure out location for frame sliders.
10-Ride it?
 

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Originally posted by Simon Orttan:

I've got a bit of a flow chart for the work...

1-install the new block and valve head.
2-finalize the plumbing for the undertail oil cooler.
3-install the 38mm carbs with correct jets
4-put the repaired Hindle parts back on.
5-Install Dyna 2000 system
6-Hope I have my seat back from Sargent Cycle
7-Get it tuned(using the Dyno at Sutter's Speed Shop) to make sure the jetting is "correct"
8-Install "new" repainted/enlarged fuel tank with Pingle petcock
9-figure out location for frame sliders.
10-Ride it?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Simon,

RE: #9
Did you ever figure out a way to mount frame sliders?

While I've got mine apart, I'm looking for ways to mount a set. I'm thinking there's got to be a way to weld on a mounting point or utilize one of the stock motor mount or frame connection positions. I'll cut or modify the bodywork if I need to.

Where did you end up on this?

I haven't found any posts on this forum that show anybody has succeeded in this yet.

Doug
 

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Mr. Gixxer,

Those coils look just like mine (the old green ones), you know that to put them in the original location the tank needs to be "adjusted" with the ol hammer. I'm sure you did but just so you know.
 
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