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Unbelievable thread, glad I found it.
One question regarding the 1100 shock being put on a 750, from what I've read here it is fairly simple, cheap, and gives at least a minor improvement in handling (not to mention they're rebuildable). Is this correct? Basically buy one and slap it in? I'm interested in throwing one on my 88 750.

Thanks guys
The 1100 that's shown in the rebuild on the 3rd page of the thread is from a 1st gen 1100 and I don't think it will fit the 2nd gen mountings. It won't fit the 1st gen 750 without some questionable modification either. You're going to be better off getting a Fox, WP, Ohlins or other shock that's made for the 2nd gen suspension. I've got a Fox twin clicker for my 89 GSXR and it seems like a pretty good shock to me, although I'm still building it so I don't know what it's like in action yet.
 

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The 1100 that's shown in the rebuild on the 3rd page of the thread is from a 1st gen 1100 and I don't think it will fit the 2nd gen mountings. It won't fit the 1st gen 750 without some questionable modification either. You're going to be better off getting a Fox, WP, Ohlins or other shock that's made for the 2nd gen suspension. I've got a Fox twin clicker for my 89 GSXR and it seems like a pretty good shock to me, although I'm still building it so I don't know what it's like in action yet.
Cool thanks for the info.
Anyone else have some experience with aftermarket suspension on their 2nd gen 750's???
 

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Fitted GSXR 1000 K5 on mine, goes straight in + shortened battery box. Raises a bit the rear, a good cheap solution
 

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hey guys i need help ..i currently purchased a 91 gsx1100 motor but i have the bst36 carb from a 98 bandit 1200,could i make this work it has 115 mains ,37.5 pilot ,im waiting on the jetkit from dynojet ,i have pods and a yoshi trs ..i been looking for info but cant get any with this carbs
 

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Re: Understanding Carbs

Although replacement guides are not available from Suzuki or Mikuni, it seems that other manufacturers who use the BST carbs have obviously noted the problem and do sell the guides as a spare part.

The closest match I have come across is some guides for a BST40 carb listed by KTM (code 58431037000), the overall dimension of the guide is identical, the only difference is the main hole through the middle of the slide which I presume is 40mm instead of 38, i have fitted a set and apart form having to drop the needles by 1 groove, the bike is running perfectly.
The correct slide guides for BST38 carburetors are in fact available, so no need to use the BST40 items.

Regards,

Derek
 

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I've got a set of BS34SS carbs for a GSXR750F. What jet sizes should I use or should I use the BST34SS guide. Apart from the flat slide vs round slide, is there much difference between them?? Stock exhaust and pod air filters. Was going to put stock air box back on. What do you guys think??
 

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I had a low throttle problem with one cylinder cutting out but running cleanly otherwise.
So I assumed dirty pilot jets and embarked on a carb cleaning job.
While doing the job I ran into a probably not too unusual behaviour of impatience
and was eager to see results. So instead of ordering and waiting a week for carb kits
I assumed some compressed air through pilot jets would essentially have me back on track.
I learnt a lot on how to get the stock air box back onto the carbs but starting attempts revealed the carbs were now in worse shape than before I began !

I have a question; I checked the pilot screws were all 1 and 1/2 turns out by counting until they bottomed and returning them 1 1/2 turns out. Could it be the pilot screw o-rings are old/dried and expanded to a wider diameter when I bottomed the pilot screws and now leak air after I turned the screws out to their old setting ?

That could explain why the idle is all but gone now except engine will run on choke.
Anyway I have carb kits on the way now. I´ll be taking my time on 2nd attempt and will check float levels..

On the float bowls some earlier mechanic had used liquid gasket on top of old rubber gaskets instead of installing new gaskets so I am not the only impatient owner in history. I see they used that on the top vacuum caps as well. I will make sure that goo is cleaned out. Paint thinner seems do can do the job.
 

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I have a question; I checked the pilot screws were all 1 and 1/2 turns out by counting until they bottomed and returning them 1 1/2 turns out. Could it be the pilot screw o-rings are old/dried and expanded to a wider diameter when I bottomed the pilot screws and now leak air after I turned the screws out to their old setting ?
I don't have CV's on my bikes but from what I've read, the little rubber o-rings below the pilot screws is the single most problematic feature of these carbs. That and worn slides.

The excessive heat over 20 or 30 years destroys those o-rings. I suspect replacing them will make a heap of difference.
 

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Good job on the fork rebuild post.
Just one thing to not is that the damper rod assembly IS servicable if you are brave enough to do it as it requires drilling out the locking dimples at the bottom of the tubes and knocking it apart. that gives access to the valving shims which vary the reaction characteristics of the damper assembly and the damping rod for polishing.

What I have said on rebuilding of my USD forks which holds for the RWU forks as well - drill out the spot locks/welds/punches on the cap at the bottom of the damper assembly, strip the damper and polish the damper rod and the bush until the damper rod will slide under it's own weight at about a 20 degree angle then get out the metal polish and polish the crap out of the chrome sections of the fork legs. What you are trying to do is remove as much stiction from the fork legs and damper rods. Doing so makes the suspension work a lot easier. When you refill with oil, use a lighter oil than recommended at around a 5 or blend to get a 7.5 or 8 weight oil (500ml 5 weight plus 500ml 10 weight blended together will give you 7.5 weight). Also, go a little bit higher with oil in each leg, say 50ml. I did basically the same as all that and replaced the springs with a set from racetech matched to my weight plus the bike then set sag to my weight then put comp & rebound damping in the middle and the difference when I rode it was unbelievable.

Your post is great for photodocumenting everything done which I am too slack to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Guess its been a while since Ive been here. Heard on another site that photobucket has been screwing people around and low and behold I come here and carb sticky photos are gone. Gonna try to log into photobucket account and get this straightened out. Sorry guys


EDIT: They want me to upgrade my PB account for 3rd party hosting at $400 a year :flipoff. Guess im gonna have to download all pictures and transfer them to another site.
 

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Hi Old Skool_R. Thanks for putting this together. I am having some power issues with my 1995 gsxr750w. Can I get a link of where you are posting the "carb sticky" photos ? thanks a lot in advance. I am trying to see which carbs I have on my bike currently.
 

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How about slabby forks? can you take 750 forks and revalve them as 1100's or are there any differences to worry about?
 

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Re: Understanding Carbs

Brilliant 👍 I was a novice who used this guide two years ago and it got my non running Slingshot back on the road. Big thank you for your time and knowledge.
 
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Berti44
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