Very nice explanation, hats off to your efforts man ! I just got my 88' 750 slingshot restored and now it ain't crossing even 130kmph. That got me here. looks like I m gonna have to open the carbs again !! dam !!REASSEMBLY-
Now that all the carbs and jets are clean, you can put them all back together. Its pretty much the reverse of taking it apart but theres some things to know.
*When putting the vaccum caps or float bowls back on i would reccomend replacing the phillips head screws with socket cap screws, especially if you're putting a jet kit in. If you have the carbs apart multiple times to change the settings, the head of the screw usually strips out. The size of the screw to replace them is 8mm x 1.25. Go to your local hardware store and get some stainless steel screws and lock washers. If all they have is regular steel thats ok, but they will rust as you can see mine did in the pics. You should only need lock washers for the float bowls. Remeber to take the screw with you so you can get the correct length.
Order of re-assembly (read all information below before re-assembly):
1. Plastic guide for slide and emulsion tube
2. Jets (install main jet first to hold emulsion tube in) then all other jets
3. Needle/slide/diagphram assembly
4. Slide spring
5. Vaccum caps
6. Float assemblys (then set float height)
7. Float bowls
8. Re-install carbs on bike
Plastic guide/Emulsion tubes - When putting the emulsion tubes back in, there is only one way they can go back in. If you look at the bottom of the tube ( in the pictures )you can see a slot. Now look at the main jet tower on the carb, see that pin? ( Im pointing to it in the pics ) This is where the slot in the tube needs to line up. If the tube doesnt go in easily (might have to lightly tap them in) then the tube is probably not lined up right.
Make sure when installing the slide guide block the o-ring is centered and not off to one side.
Needle/Slide/Diaphram assembly - The needle and washers go in the order shown in the picture, the white washer that goes on bottom has two notches cut into it. These notches face down.
Vaccum caps and slide springs - Make sure the o-rings are in place before you install the vaccum cap. If not there will be a vaccum leak and the bike will not run right. When installing the vaccum cap, put the slide spring onto the tower in the cap and then lower both onto the carb. If you put the spring in the carb first and then lower the cap onto the spring, it might not seat correctly and may come off the tower. After you have all the caps on, manually work the slide with your finger, it should slide up and down with some resistance. If it slides up easily, or doesnt feel right, the spring may have popped off the cap. Take the cap off again and double check everything.
Pilot screws/Jets - As you can see in the pic, the o-ring goes first, then spring, then the screw. Screw the pilot screw in until you feel it bottom out on the carb. Do not tighten the pilot screw anymore after it has bottomed out! You may damage the screw or could damage the carb. Now back the screw out however many turns that are factory reccomended. If you have added a performance exhaust or air filter you may need to turn the screw out farther to richen up the idle mixture. The more you back out the pilot screw (counter-clockwise) the richer the idle mix. The more it is screwed in (clockwise), the leaner the idle mixture.
The pilot air jets that screw into the mouth of the carb (airbox side) are easy to crossthread so just be careful.
Float - Once all the jets are in, its time to put the float on. I put some clean motor oil on my finger and lightly coat the o-rings. The oil will help the float "snap" into place and will prevent you from breaking the float from forcing it into place. The 0-rings are what holds the float assembly to the carb. It is an interference fit. After putting the float assembly on, lightly pull up on each end of the float where the o-rings hold it. If you can easily pull the float back off the carb, the o-rings are no good and need to be replaced.
Setting Float Height - Now that the carbs are pretty much all back together and the float assemblys are on you need to set float height. The carbs should be leaning at an angle so that the float tang (metal tab that rides on the needle) is touching the needle but not compressing it. I myself pick the float up off the needle and then set it down gently to make sure the needle wasnt compressed to begin with. Now you need to know what the float height spec is. You can refer to the specs in the beginning of this sticky or look in your repair manual. The spec will be in millimeters. If using vernier calipers you will need to convert millimeters to inches. You can use this webpage to do your conversion, http://www.sciencemadesimple.net/length.php. To adjust the float height you will need to bend the float tang either up or down. The float tang is the piece of metal that the needle clips to on the float assembly. Bending it up will decrease the float height, bending it down will have the opposite affect.
One thing to mention that i have seen is that not all float tanks are the same height. What i mean by this is on one float assembly , one float tank may be higher than the other one. When setting float height you will want to set it on the float tank that is highest. I should have taken a picture to demonstrate this but i didnt think of it until after i had the carbs back on my bike.
NOTE- Its called setting the float height but your actually setting the fuel level. Picture the carbs installed on the bike, the higher the float is, the higher the fuel level is in the bowl. The higher the fuel level the richer the air/fuel mix. The lower the fuel level, the leaner the air/fuel mix. The reason for this is, the closer the fuel is to the venturi (emulsion tube and needle) the easier it is for the vaccum to pick up the fuel. The farther away the fuel is, the more vaccum (higher rpm) you will need to pick up the fuel.
Some float heights converted:
13mm = .0512
13.6 = .0535
14mm = .0551
14.6mm = .0575
15mm = .0591
16mm = .0630
17mm = .0669
You dont need to use a set of calipers, just as long as you measure from the base of the carb where the float bowl gasket sits to the very top of the float bowl with some type of measuring device. (As shown in picture)
Drawing of spacer with dimensions, its the little things that can make big differences sorry about quality of pics