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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. Here is my first post.

So I am new to riding a GSX-R1000 so I don't have enough set time to fully know what they are like. I grew up riding dirt bikes and a kawi 250 street bike. I live in Montana and there are a few dealer bike shops but I have heard un-amazing things about most of them, so I am bit strapped for reputable servicing just for a little background info.

This summer I bought a used 2011 GSX-R1000 with 4k miles. It has a stock air filter, jardine GP1 exhaust with CAT removed, and a PC5 on board. I spent most of the summer driving in c mode at under 7k RPM to get used to the bike. Then for the last month I have been driving on default A but under 7k RPM still. And honestly the DMS is pointless under 5-7k I can barely tell the difference. above 7K there is of course.

So last week I started running the bike harder and pushing it to 10K RPM to try it out on some back roads. I ran hard up the the gears with open throttle, half throttle and all over the place to see what it was like. Fun tank of gas let me tell you

I thought the bike ran hard but I didn't really notice any power gain above 10K RPM and every now and then if I was only at about 70% throttle around 9k rpm I would get some power loss and then kick back in. Also when I close the throttle and decelerate down from 8-10k I get some popping.

This let me to believe the bike was running lean. There is a guy with a Dyno in town and he has ran it for 20 years so he "knows what he's doing" per him. mostly tuning old sports cars but other bikes too. I told him to check it out and let me know. He said the bike was very lean. anything above 6500 RPM ( i believe when the second set of injectors fire) the bike leans out severely, like off the dyno chart bad, above 18-20 AFR. So to compensate and get to around the 13 - 13.5 range he had to add anywhere from 35% to 84% full above stock. I called dyno in vegas and they said that is crazy. Said either a fuel delivery problem or the guys didn't know what he was doing. I ran the bike with this set up and it was unrideable, it when rich at 7k and would cut out. So I pulled a stock map from the dyno site and it is back to normal but with more popping than before.

Sorry for the length but I don't know much about engines, I just like riding them.

What things should I have checked out.
Fuel pressure for sure - assuming its low
then who knows after that.

I cant imagine the jardine - CAT is the cause for how lean it is. the popping probably. Thoughts. Thanks
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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The popping can be lessened/eliminated by doing the pair valve mod. You can play map roulette until you find a map that's best, get a proper dyno tune or remove the PC and see how the bikes rides. Don't know if adding a self tuner is an option or not but someone will likely speak up.
 

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Zero your PC map and start from there.

A GSXR 1000 doesn't like anything above 15 AFR,at 16 you feel noticeable power loss and the bike stalls way before it reaches 18 AFR,20 is out of the question.

If your pair valve is still operating you should block it to get accurate AFR readings especially at part throttle,otherwise you are tuning the bike on flase readings. That's what the tuner was doing probably,there is no need for a +80% on any GSXR 1000 with a slipon even if it's a straight pipe.

You should have a mechanic check your fuel pump if the bike is still unrideable with a zero map in the PC.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To clarify the bike is ridable again with a zero map or a stock dyno wesbite map (not exact exhaust but close setup) popping is pretty bad on decel at any rpm over 5k.

So I have been looking into the PAIR Mod. I asked the tuner if he plugged the hose on the tune and he said no (he didn't know about that - car tuner not bikes really) so that could be a part of the extra lean condition.

A question I don't get is on the marble mod. If the PAIR operation is to close at WOT then when testing that way on the dyno the mod shouldn't matter really?!? But when testing at slower rolling throttle it would matter of course. And looking into it is pretty hysterical, as some say great mod do it helps eliminate decel pooping and others say it increases decel popping. So much muck in the water.

If I stick a marble in the hose do you need to clamp it. wont the air pressure push it into the hose?

Here is a picture of the stock run blue that has off chart AFR then after adding a ton of fuel is is more stable. But I am seeing a lot of guys with straight line AFR maps. This is still bumpy. But I don't know how much the open PAIR can effect the readings. I will have to plug it and have it re-tested
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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+1, or clogged injectors. Test the pump flow rate via the service manual procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the fuel pressure was a constant 45. I was told to test it while riding. But the mechanic said they aren't allowed to go out riding the service bikes. So I don't know if it matters to test the fuel pressure at idle or if you have to be under load, you would think a mechanic would know.

So they said in their opinion there is no fuel problem. And with it only being 3 years old, they can't imagine any clogged injectors or fuel filter etc.

So I guess the only thing to do is have it re-ran on the dyno with the closed PAIR and see if the results are different.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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The PAIR mod is so simple to do I can't imagine not just getting that out of the way anyway.

You can literally cancel it by just taking the 2 part ports on top of the valve cover and running a hose straight across the two of them similar to this.


 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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The pressure test doesn't mean that much unless measured at high RPM and load, whereas the flow test is done without the engine running.

It depends a lot on where you've been getting your gas but one bad tank can clog the filter.
 
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