[darkirish58]

With that set up, I don't think both motors can ever be in perfect synch, well for very long anyway. One will always be pulling the other; just too many variables that would drive them to be out of sync (think about the horsepower difference at any rpm between any two engines not matter how well matched). Mechanical systems would just rely on some sort of slip or over run clutch to account for the differences between the two engines. Computer control measuring output shaft rpm or some other variables would be the only way to match two engines direct coupled that way.

I am sure you are pushing the limits of that 530 chain anyway. A chain oiler may work well for you for your needs on short runs, but you may find you will need to step up to higher load chain or dual row perhaps.

 

[darkirish58]

I think it looks good, give it a whirl. If you have some sort of cover over the coupler, you may want to try gasketing it, or sealing it with silicone to keep oil in and salt out. Keep us informed on how it works out and good luck!

Have you ever dynoed your engines? Do you check chain stretch between runs? That may give you early warning if you are exceeding the limits of that 530 chain, especially if you are going greater than your previous max of 3/4 throttle.

 

[darkirish58]

Oh I think you will also want to make sure the front engine is always the lead engine. Otherwise, you may be putting way too much force on your idler gear and it's support

 

[darkirish58]

If you keep that chain well oiled and can keep the salt out, your set up will probably serve you well for your purposes. Chains seldom break catastrophically so most likely you will probably only see a reduction in performance. So if you would check the chain stretch and sprockets periodically, it would give you early warning.

The idler is there only to take up excessive slack due to chain stretch (since the engines can't be moved) - you really don't need it for anything else. Actually if you have plenty of replacement chain (to replace when it stretches), you could eliminate the idler altogether if it keeps giving you problems. Don't over tighten the chain either, allow it to move some. Chains will move up and down on the tension side (top in your case) - they are supposed to. If you start seeing excessive wear on the front sprocket (assuming it is the lead engine) you may want to remove chain guides or at least widen them allowing alittle chain movement. Good luck

 

[darkirish58]

I concur with the advice of where to place the tensioner. I did mention those high forces on the tension side previously.

Your 530 chain may serve you well for your purposes; several short runs lasting several minutes under load. My charts indicate that 530 chain is getting close to recommended max depending on your horsepower and rpm at the countersprocket. Again I would just measure chain stretch frequently

Not sure why you added chain guides, but I wouldn't restrict the chain movement on tension side. I never put chain guides on any design I've done, with loads far exceeding what you have here.
It may not cause you any issues, but chains will move up and down naturally on the tension side and by restricting that movement, those guides are putting forces on that chain and sprockets you really don't need, and at the least are robbing you of horsepower. I could send you a scan of a engineering design text that outlines this (scan too big to post here).

 

[darkirish58]

Sent!