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Ether
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Discussion Starter #1
Here is a Diagram For a Stage One Turbo Setup.

Diagram boostinscooby made the drawing from a few of us here and his own research.

Fuel Pumps most used are the:
Walbro GSL392 High Pressure Pump
Bosch 044

FMU
BEGi 2025

To make a return style setup you also need to modify the cover on the bottom of the tank(stock fuel pump assembly). You can either run a Blockoff Plate
or gut the stock housing and add a return fitting in the bottom of the housing. I would use the lower port you added for the feed and he stock fitting for return. This keeps the air bubbles above the feed.

When running the vacuum lines you need to add two check valves before the map sensor to bleed off the pressure before it hits the map sensor. The boost leak is very small and wont effect the overall pressure.

The optional routing is used on the 05+ 1000 as it has two sets of injectors so its harder to plum in another fitting.

 

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Hi 2c`s,
Just a quick one there`s two diagrams showing slightly different setups on the vac lines/bleed valves, which diagram do i use the first one posted or the second one? thanks.
 

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Use the other one, vac bleeds there will affect the performance of the BOV and read only positive pressure on the boost gauge (which is fine on pressure only gauges )
Gix map sensors are less sensitive to boost than busa which throw a fault code at very low pressure , for many low boost applications no tee's are needed
,
 

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2c or maj what is the base setting for fuel psi with or without vac pipes connected on the threaded allan key and approx how many turns from fully in on the little brass adjuster on the side of the begi just to get me started? thanks.
 

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first, setting fuel pressure--each engine runs different but it's gonna be somewhere around 38-42, if you do not have a afr guage the only thing you can do is set it around to that psi and listen to your engine like you would tune a lawnmower and let it smooth out. It's kinda a rats ass way to tune a boosted performance engine. The brass needle valve is the uprate of fuel pressure under boost which mine is about 1 1/2 turns which is about 8-10 psi per pound of boost. You need to see your fuel guage while under boost to make sure you are getting enough. Keep in mind how one effects the other my bike ran good at 38 39 and 40 psi at idle, but at 38 i was too lean in cruising conditions, even when i mapped up on the pc3 it was too much to adjust, i had better changes with 40 psi and tuning down my pc3 during cruise and light load, and the worst was off throttle at 4k,5k,6k and up i was seriously lean at the lower fuel pressure but there is absolutely NO way i could have even come close without the afr guage- or taking it to a dynotuner
 

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Ether
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Discussion Starter #7
I wouldn't tune it like that. take it to a dyno before you start riding it around. you will kill rod bearings in the first ride if it goes lean.

Set the base pressure at 42psi then hook up a boost only reference to the begi.
 

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I don't use a fmu anymore but when i fitted a couple i would set the fuel pressure to 43psi, then start at 3/4 turn out on the brass , and load the pc map, then take it for a short ride ... 3-4th gear roll on till it begins to boost , and adjust the brass in 1/8 turn out increments untill it is not smooth(surge od hesitation) then back in 1/8 and locktight it.. then you can fine tune the pc map on dyno or with logger
 

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I ran a FMU on my bike for a little while and each time set the fuel pressure a little on the high side (47PSI) to just try and keep things safe.

FMU's have an inherit weakness that they can only continue to add fuel as long as your fuel pump and continue to support it. If you just want to set the bike to one boost setting, they can be dialed in to work pretty well. If you want to run mulitple boost settings, you will always be chasing the tune. I put a data longer on the bike and found that the FMU/fuel pump would only add the fuel I need up to about 8 lbs of boost, and then it would start to go lean.

Bottomline, they will work but are not very flexible. A Powercommander with a hub works much better, and a stand alone ECM is the best option...if you can afford it.
 

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The commonly called FMU is a hi rate of rise regulator , 5-6psi fuel pressure increase /psi boost and some adjustment on the onset and how the rise occurs
 

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Ok so the FMU that comes with the kit dosent have a spot for a fuel guage. What i was thinking insted of splicing in a fuel guage, just get a fuel lab FPR that has a spot to mount a guage.
 

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This diagram is for a 2007 GSXR1000?

I am installing a turbo on my k7 and I have no idea how to do the assembly.
It necessaria change injectors?, You need to exchange some part of the power commander?.
There are pictures of all parts of the diagram, some are not mean.
Thanks
 

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on a k7 it would be much easier and get a better result to use the ecu editor technology and let your ecu do it all ,
 

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Here is a Diagram For a Stage One Turbo Setup.

Diagram boostinscooby made the drawing from a few of us here and his own research.

Fuel Pumps most used are the:
Walbro GSL392 High Pressure Pump
Bosch 044

FMU
BEGi 2025

To make a return style setup you also need to modify the cover on the bottom of the tank(stock fuel pump assembly). You can either run a Blockoff Plate
or gut the stock housing and add a return fitting in the bottom of the housing. I would use the lower port you added for the feed and he stock fitting for return. This keeps the air bubbles above the feed.

When running the vacuum lines you need to add two check valves before the map sensor to bleed off the pressure before it hits the map sensor. The boost leak is very small and wont effect the overall pressure.

The optional routing is used on the 05+ 1000 as it has two sets of injectors so its harder to plum in another fitting.

Question about the map sensor check valves.

- Why two checkvalves?
- What is the purpose of them?
- The MAP sensor in question is it the stock MAP sensor?
 

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You may be able to just use one, depends if the FI warning is triggered at your boost level.
yes that will be the stock map sensor
if you have some electronics experiance you could use a zenner diode and limit the map sensor output and do away with the check valve

Racing gp, totally missed your post, hope you found your answers
 

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You may be able to just use one, depends if the FI warning is triggered at your boost level.
yes that will be the stock map sensor
if you have some electronics experiance you could use a zenner diode and limit the map sensor output and do away with the check valve

Racing gp, totally missed your post, hope you found your answers
I see, thanks, yes I'm used to electronics and can make a Zener diode limiter. MAP sensors normally delivers 0-5 VDC. What is the votage that triggers the F1 warning? If you don't know I may find it in the K2 manual.
 
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