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Discussion Starter #61
Thanks, what setup is safe for non atm? I have read that up to 6 psi non intercooled, so for start I think about 4

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Discussion Starter #62
Also, what's optimal air intake temp as reference?

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You could consider spraying water/methanol, no intercooler.

Start AFR around 11.5-12 at WOT in boost, watch engine knock and adjust from there.
 

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You could consider spraying water/methanol, no intercooler.

Start AFR around 11.5-12 at WOT in boost, watch engine knock and adjust from there.
This is another option, not ideal but means you don't need another radiator, less plumbing. This issue will be finding a small enough system that will be reliable and work well enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
This is another option, not ideal but means you don't need another radiator, less plumbing. This issue will be finding a small enough system that will be reliable and work well enough.
Thanks for the advice, I have done my own water meth kit based on arduino, I just got the water pump, that thing is big, I might also go later on once it's on bike for a larger Barrell type intercooler,have to see first how much space available after install

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Discussion Starter #67
Project will be delayed another week, plastigauge saved the day, need other con rod bearings as 3 of them have a result 0.025 an minimum by book is 0.032
I don't want to risk engine damage after throwing so much money into it
Thrust bearing clearance is adjusted to 0.07 being right side the standard green and the other orange.
I need a plenum, where could I get one in Europe? Cheers and thanks everyone for helping


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Discussion Starter #70
Hi guys
Not in plans to remove the cooler.
I need to find a spot for the intercooler cooler...it's starting to get tight here will have to cut down the water-cooler as it is in the way

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Discussion Starter #71
Engine assembly almost done...but..the big fking but! 2 screws remain and all other are fit...where the f could they go?
8mm socket


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Discussion Starter #72
The under oil strainer is set and one outside block, one long one to go

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The oil pan was originally glued on with Suzuki Bond and that's what the service manual shows. But Suzuki now sells a gasket for it, as was first used on the K7. It's something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Shit...gotta change I have used the bond...
If it's not too bad.
I'm still worried where those two long screws go, the engine has been a part for months and...kinda forgot the place of them.fuuuuuuu....
For the rest, fits nice, the oil upgrade gear sit in good
Still need to torque 12 ftlbs the head studs into block, fit gasket and go set the nuts.
Have set the chain guides now.
Will keep posting updates on the work


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Discussion Starter #76
Engine is almost ready to go back into the bike so far this build will have

-new engine bearings,all of them
-low comp pistons
-conrods
-studs for head and crank
-injectors
-fuel pump
-fuel regulator
-water intercooler
-e water pump
-intercooler radiator
-plenum from monster turbos (still need to get)
-aluminum pipelines
-gt28 turbo water/oil
-boost control
-regulable wastgate (low spring rate and boost selected by boost control)
-bov
-Patience

Thanks guys for all the support so far

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Discussion Starter #77
That's it for today, need a new gasket for head cover


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If you haven't yet figured it out, I might be able to tell where those bolts go if you provide the size (M6?), pitch (1 mm?), hex size (8 mm?), and length.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Hi
Length 8cm
Pitch 1
Socket 8mm

Thanks,hope not to open All again, might be a leftover of the other engine but I doubt it, could find any other place where to fit it

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It's used in two places. One on the right side of the crankcase just behind the cavity where the timing chain runs. See 3-80 in the service manual or 3-81 in my rework. It's used with a gasket washer. Search for "Fit a new gasket washer to crankcase bolt A." The other is one of four bolts that attach the sprocket cover.
 
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