Turbo build questions

19223 Views 346 Replies 13 Participants Last post by dany1000, Mar 30, 2021

dany1000

Discussion Starter · Apr 23, 2020

Hi guys
I am on the build of a gsxr1000 2005
So far I got the turbo, a gt28
Manifolds
Low comp pistons
Bov
New set of engine bearings
Oil feed tubes and splitter
Checker valve
Rods will be using wossner

What else shal take into account?
Do I need a upgrade oil pump gear or is stock good for this extra circuit to be fed?
Also, regarding headgasket do I need a thicker one or already running low comp pistons is enough?
Is there a way to not bypass the oil radiator?
The water radiator hits on the turbo, is there a way to make it fit or just let it leaned to it? As the clearance to the wheel is very little.
The studs, are factory ok or is it a must to uprate them?
Is there anything I might be missing?

Thanks guys

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BillV

· #2 · Apr 23, 2020

There's an old post here where I ask Oldgixxer about removing the oil cooler. I'm bothered by it but it seems to be common. A way around it and your related problem might be a custom radiator. As I recall, there's an outfit on ebay that sells K5/K6 radiators that are actually made in the US (no guarantees). They might be willing to build something at a reasonable price. The other thing that I don't understand is the IAP sensor. The OEM sensor won't measure positive pressures AFAIK and ones that bleed air are used - I think. There has to be a better way.

Beairsto Racing

· #3 · Apr 23, 2020

What are your goals?
How much boost?...that determines what you need.

GSXRISSA

· #4 · Apr 24, 2020

I've been researching a build heavily for the last few months, I would also add;

Fuel control/ fuel by boost
As Bill has mentioned the IAP sensor could also be an issue
Shortening the radiator seems to be standard practice for turbo
Oil cooling has a number of different options, either loop the lines or find some real estate to fit a cooler.
The other things you ask regarding gasket thickness, oil etc... can largely depend on turbo/power goals, clearances, any other oiling mods etc...

What manifolds did you go with?
Where will you take the turbo oil feed from?

dany1000

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 24, 2020

Hi
Thanks for the reply
My goal is to get into the 300/320 area
The oil feed I will take from oil pressure sensor
Have also ordered extra feed lines to try to relocate the oil radiator.
Not really a fan of shorter radiator have read from other posts that the engines go hot in no time.
The exhaust manifold y got from eBay, flat pipe with a t4-t3 flange
I'm still looking for the plenum

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dany1000

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 24, 2020

The IAP can't see pressure so a checker valve there to allow to see vacuum but not pressure.
Fueling, what pump? And top injectors thought about the Siemens 680

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Beairsto Racing

· #7 · Apr 24, 2020

Is this is a street bike? Race bike?
You can rake the frame neck 3-5 degrees for rad clearance.
Non-intercooled?

dany1000

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 24, 2020

Beairsto Racing said:
Is this is a street bike? Race bike?
You can rake the frame neck 3-5 degrees for rad clearance.
Non-intercooled?

This bike will be used for both.
For now non intercooled till I find out where I can place a small cooler without having to spend the fortune on the water cooled plenum as here import taxes are high as f.
The parts I need to source in eu area.
What powers are non intercooler safe?
The fuel ratios I can do on the dyno, that's also a question,what afr targets for low mid throttle and under wot are the safest setup?
Thanks

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BillV

· #9 · Apr 24, 2020

"either loop the lines or find some real estate to fit a cooler"
Don't just block it off. There's a post here somewhere about why that's a really bad idea.

"...shorter radiator have read from other posts that the engines go hot in no time"
I'd expect that a shorter radiator would have to be thicker to maintain the same or greater cooling area.

dany1000

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 24, 2020

I'm going to try to keep the oil cooler
I have a spare radiator from a 750 and they seem the same apart from one connection that is on the other side, that radiator I could make some work, cutting out the interfering parts and close with Alu welding.
Is it safe to run factory studs,gasket and oil pump for those settings that are aimed?
What else do I need to look for that is important to keep this setup right?
Thanks

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Beairsto Racing

· #11 · Apr 24, 2020

What country are you in?
It might influence recommendations for parts / tuners etc.

dany1000

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 25, 2020

I'm located in Spain

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dany1000

Discussion Starter · #13 · Apr 25, 2020

What power output would be for stock rods ? I have read that 240 on the wheel,this correct? To reduce power from turbo, better to control by valve or a turbo restrictior? These I can make no problem

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Beairsto Racing

· #14 · Apr 25, 2020

It's cheaper to build it right, the first time...
You stated above that you were going to use Wossner rods...are you having second thoughts now? Don't cheap out, that will prove to be more expensive in the long run. There are no short cuts.

You asked about head gaskets...you need to do a dry build first...cc the combustion chamber...do some measuring and math, to determine the squish, which will then allow you to order the proper head gasket thickness. Even though you have low compression pistons, and PTV won't be an issue...if you don't set the squish, you will have an inefficient engine, and will be leaving hp on the table.

I don't see adjustable cam sprockets on your list...you should degree the cams too.

dany1000

Discussion Starter · #15 · Apr 25, 2020

The rods are STILL...in the currier warehouse in spain getting them will take at least another month to get here...just impatience growing
The cam sprockets will be going for ape in my next order..I need to get also gaskets as the old one...my bad..trashed it in order to do the squish, will be going with plasticine to measure valve distances also.
What degrees do you recommend to run?
Cheap...I know is bad combination in this build
Also waiting for the flex hone for the deglaze, used back in the day a well recommended decarb product the l1berner ATM 200 and...where the product was sitting in the rings I'd did in fact eat away a bit it the cylinder walls there...so I do no recommend it
Regarding intercooler, being a critical part to lower temp... how to to fit it can be a art work.these are the exhaust manifold

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dany1000

Discussion Starter · #16 · Apr 25, 2020

Thanks for all the recommendation and help, really appreciate it

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dany1000

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 25, 2020

Here you can see what that product helped to do

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Beairsto Racing

· #18 · Apr 25, 2020

Nikasil doesn't respond well to traditional honing methods...you're likely going to have to send it out to get the bores re-coated.

dany1000

Discussion Starter · #19 · Apr 25, 2020

I will try the flex hone with aluminium oxide 240grit recommended for nikasil, if this is a failure I will have to buy a set of cases, I already searched here and only one can do it due to the nature of the block...600pounds plus vat and shipping

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dany1000

Discussion Starter · #20 · Apr 29, 2020

3

Here it is, after flex hone it's nice clean and nice cross pattern BUT still the deep marks of the elm200 product...I guess this block is ruined

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