This is all based on 1000's but ought to apply to yours.
The immobilizer and non-immobilizer models use a different wiring harness and ignition switch. The simplest thing is to change them too but finding a used harness that isn't hacked up can be difficult. If you compare the wiring diagrams in the service manual, you'll see that the non-immobilizer switch has one connector while the immobilizer has two. That and the associated leads to the ECM are the essence of the problem. The US resistor isn't shown but is in the lead that connects to the O/Y lead to the ECM. You need to remove the immobilizer leads and install the resistor lead. An alternate is to turn off all anti-theft measures with a flash. But that's for race bikes, not for the street.
The immobilizer and non-immobilizer models use a different wiring harness and ignition switch. The simplest thing is to change them too but finding a used harness that isn't hacked up can be difficult. If you compare the wiring diagrams in the service manual, you'll see that the non-immobilizer switch has one connector while the immobilizer has two. That and the associated leads to the ECM are the essence of the problem. The US resistor isn't shown but is in the lead that connects to the O/Y lead to the ECM. You need to remove the immobilizer leads and install the resistor lead. An alternate is to turn off all anti-theft measures with a flash. But that's for race bikes, not for the street.
