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Discussion Starter #1
So today I go to start my bike. Everything is running fine temp normal everything is normal. Then out of no where the bike cuts off I didn’t think to much of it for some reason but yeah so I go to start it again and now it won’t start. Won’t turn over nothing. But here is the best part. When I go to push the button there is a loud click and the fuel pump primes. Turn the key off. Turn the key back on flip the switch fuel pump primes go to push the button loud click and fuel pump primes until I release the button anyone out there have any ideas for this one
 

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did you put a volt meter on your battery? sounds like it might not be charging. how old is the battery? are the +/- terminals all clean? wheres the "loud click" coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The battery is about 4-5 days old it was hard to tell where the noise was at first but after searching it’s from under the seat. It’s loud and once I moved some of the plastic and I can feel it I don’t know what the part is called but it has positive and negative wires with a fuse if I knew how to upload pictures I would.
 

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That's the starter solenoid. Seems like your battery does not have enough juice to turn the motor over. If it's a new battery it sounds like it is not being charged.

Charge the battery for an hour or so and then see if the bike will start. If it does, break out the voltmeter and measure the voltage over the battery, you should expect something north of 14 volts when the motor is running. If its around 12 volts your charging system is not working.
 

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Since it clicks, the solenoid's coil is functioning. Solenoids can fail but that's rare. It's far more likely that your battery is undercharged/faulty/improperly connected. The solenoid's big red cable comes straight from the battery's positive terminal and the big black cable goes straight to the starter. You could confirm that the battery is properly charged by measuring the voltage at the red cable terminal. If OK measure the voltage at the black cable terminal. It should be zero when not cranking and maybe 11-12 V while cranking. You could also measure the red cable terminal while cranking.

The Y/G lead on the connector comes from the START button and the B/Y lead runs to the clutch switch and then to ground. But that's all working if it clicks.
 

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In addition to the above, check your battery terminal connections to make sure they aren't loose. And check the negative cable where it attaches to the frame for corrosion. Both can cause odd electrical issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I basically checked everything. V12 for reader. Still no crank. Fuel pump still primes when I press the start button and keeps priming until I release the button. What’s my next move.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
  • Ok ignore the last thing I said. That issue has been fixed. Now I’m back to square one. Everything connected and wired up. Cranks up sounds like its bogged down close to 4K rpm. On the air box there is the hose that connects to it you pull it off sounds like air being sucked in at a high rate. Bike gets quite hook it back up sounds normal. Once that hose is unconnected the bike can hit 6-8 rpm no problem but cuts off. Hook the hose back it goes back to 4K rpm. What am I dealing with.
 

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So what did you do to fix the no-cranking issue?

What hose? There's the crankcase ventilation hose and the PAIR valve hose. Off-hand I'm thinking that your SET valve isn't opening or your secondary throttle isn't opening. But we need more information.
 

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Off hand that looks like the hose from the throttle body to the manifold air pressure sensor. The bike needs it to be correctly connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Off hand that looks like the hose from the throttle body to the manifold air pressure sensor. The bike needs it to be correctly connected.
Yeah I know. The guy I got it from decided to cut everything and have it wired to a switch. I’m looking for a wire harness so everything will be properly connected. Just having trouble finding one
 
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