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I apologize that raised the old theme.
But this question is still relevant.
And someone tried to do like this? As far as I know, makes such yoshimura lubrication holes in their camshafts. I seen hollow camshaftscan be set them in the plugs and make such modifications.

 

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Never ran a top end oiling kit because I never seen a top end oiling issue with any of the street or race engines I ran .

My stage 1 Yoshimura cam that I installed in my 1216cc Bandit engine has the ends of the cams capped off and then they have small holes in the cam lobes to aid in lubrication to help with cam and rocker wear .

Running good oil and keeping up on valve lash seems to be the best way to keep wear down .

Crappy oil / dirty oil and tight valve clearances are a sure way to get a round cam lob and worn rockers .

I once bought a project gsxr 750 that had the head gone through on it but they hadn't fired it up . Thank God for that because the original 4 hollow valve cover bolts that help suplly oil were missing and 4 standard bolts were put in their place :wtf . That would have surely starved the top end of oil and ruined a good cylinder head .
 

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If one knows how to do this correctly, they never machine into the oil passage. Ask me how I know. :punk

Jay
So Jay - let us participate in your knowledge, what is the correct way to do it ?
I will not be a competitior to you, as i live in Europe, and don´t run a machineshop anyway.
Or are you just here to pick up some customers ?
 

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I have had the Goodridge oil lines on for years with a feed from the bottom right side of the motor.
(97 bandit 12)
I use Castrol 10w/40 Non synthetic, changed every 3-5k miles.
Recently checked valve clearances, nothing crazy loose or tight.
My question is if the use of additional oil lines doesn't help (extra oil & pressures) What will they hurt?

eh
 

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The top-end oiling kits help out tremendously if installed correctly. All of the kits I have seen for sale are designed for incorrect installation. I was installing these types of kits on the oil cooled engines back in 1991 before they were even available for the engines. I even used them on small bore engines. I used a modified Ward Performance kit for the GS1100 motors at the beginning, before I made my own. You MUST take the oil for the kit from the main oil galley!! Otherwise you are doing more harm than good! The advantage of the kits is to supply cooler oil to the valve train. Valve springs DON'T like to run hot!

Let's look at how the kits are delivered to your door. These engines have a double rotor oil pump. One side is for oiling the engine,(larger rotor) and the other for supplying oil to cool the cylinder head, smaller rotor). If you install the kits as delivered, you are now connecting the two oiling circuits together, through the top end oiling jet in the top case. Bad idea!! The oil from the cooling section is unfiltered, un-cooled and at a lower pressure. Why would anyone want to lubricate the cam journals with that type of oil. I want them to last longer not wear out faster, and thats what heat will definitely do. If installed correctly you are supplying oil that is cooler and has not been transferred through the HOT block. Big advantage!

To install the kits correctly you must block off the oiling jets in the top case-half, along with blocking off the oil transfer passages it the head. I make an aluminum plug and red loctite it in place. That way, if you ever pull off the head or block you don't have all the oil in those passages making everything messy.

As far as MrApe, I have never been able to install a big-block with out having to bore out the top case half. That is unless I want to sacrifice cylinder liner integrity, and I have never done that!

My advice is to use them when ever possible!!
 

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The top-end oiling kits help out tremendously if installed correctly. All of the kits I have seen for sale are designed for incorrect installation. I was installing these types of kits on the oil cooled engines back in 1991 before they were even available for the engines. I even used them on small bore engines. I used a modified Ward Performance kit for the GS1100 motors at the beginning, before I made my own. You MUST take the oil for the kit from the main oil galley!! Otherwise you are doing more harm than good! The advantage of the kits is to supply cooler oil to the valve train. Valve springs DON'T like to run hot!

Let's look at how the kits are delivered to your door. These engines have a double rotor oil pump. One side is for oiling the engine,(larger rotor) and the other for supplying oil to cool the cylinder head, smaller rotor). If you install the kits as delivered, you are now connecting the two oiling circuits together, through the top end oiling jet in the top case. Bad idea!! The oil from the cooling section is unfiltered, un-cooled and at a lower pressure. Why would anyone want to lubricate the cam journals with that type of oil. I want them to last longer not wear out faster, and thats what heat will definitely do. If installed correctly you are supplying oil that is cooler and has not been transferred through the HOT block. Big advantage!

To install the kits correctly you must block off the oiling jets in the top case-half, along with blocking off the oil transfer passages it the head. I make an aluminum plug and red loctite it in place. That way, if you ever pull off the head or block you don't have all the oil in those passages making everything messy.

As far as MrApe, I have never been able to install a big-block with out having to bore out the top case half. That is unless I want to sacrifice cylinder liner integrity, and I have never done that!

My advice is to use them when ever possible!!
Hey spark chaser could you give me a call I also have a GSXR 1100 and have some questions if you don't mind and have the time name is mike 850-274-9238 thanks
 

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Hey spark chaser could you give me a call I also have a GSXR 1100 and have some questions if you don't mind and have the time name is mike 850-274-9238 thanks
Dude...look at the dates.
Spark Chaser hasn't been active here in 7 years...he's not getting back to you.
Please do not drag up dead threads for this very reason.

If you have questions, start a new thread of your own.
 

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Dude...look at the dates.
Spark Chaser hasn't been active here in 7 years...he's not getting back to you.
Please do not drag up dead threads for this very reason.

If you have questions, start a new thread of your own.
Wow ok thanks didn't look at the date oops. Wasn't trying to drag up dead threads or offend anyone.
 

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So now that this is at the top, how necessary is it? Both my 86's are getting a teardown to make sure the guts are good after sitting for 20+ years. If theres something that needs machining at that time i could easily knock it out. They will just see spirited street riding, but if i can do something to improve longevity during teardown i definitely would. The 750 is a stroker if that makes a difference, the 1100 is all stock.

EDIT: To add, i realized while snaking thru the garage that the 750 already needs machining on the cover bolt threads i believe. So if im going to break down the mill for that i can add other PM work on the head, if there is anything.
 

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What more do you need to know ?...the merits are discussed from several different perspectives in this thread.

They have their application...such as when the bottom cases are bored out for over size sleeves on a big block...the oil jets are then precariously at the edge of a thin case, if they haven't been cut out at this point...the jet orifice gets plugged and the Top End Oiler kit then supplies oil to the top end, when fed from the main gallery.
Hood Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Auto part Automotive exterior


They won't really do anything for your current stock application, other than drain your wallet...that's not the fault of APE, Ward, Vortex etc.
People see something shiny and figure it will help them, having no idea how it works...Because Race Car.

This is my set up on the Double...I have another on my 1100 Turbo.
 
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