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you can still use the OEM one. i wouldn't bother with the kit, though. it is basically a kit with 1/4, 1/5, and 1/6 turn throttle tubes which is the same as OEM, an R1, and R6 tube but you have to replace the kill switch (and starter button too) and it costs waaaaay more than just buying the yamaha tubes. for $32 USD, i have the same throttle tubes just by buying 2 yamaha tubes.
 

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R6 Oem tube is all that's needed . Follow directions from OP and yea stock cables will work ..moved one of my cable nuts by throttle body forward to get little more cable slack but works fine ! 1/4 turn is fairly aggressive vs stock .. A midpoint would be R1 tube
 

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R6 Oem tube is all that's needed . Follow directions from OP and yea stock cables will work ..moved one of my cable nuts by throttle body forward to get little more cable slack but works fine ! 1/6 turn is fairly aggressive vs stock .. A midpoint would be R1 tube
:cheers
 

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Can´t read the whole thread but I have an 2003 K3 model, wich R6 tube should i get? There seems to be countless variations and models who fits everything from 99-10?
I want the 1/6 version, the short one!
Thx
 

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Can´t read the whole thread but I have an 2003 K3 model, wich R6 tube should i get? There seems to be countless variations and models who fits everything from 99-10?
I want the 1/6 version, the short one!
Thx
The 06+ R6 tube is the short one. Now I'm not sure if it fits a K3 model.
 

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I was reading the other thread they why are people saying the r1 takes less to achieve WOT then the r6 throttle? It's like 50/50 people say the r1 and the other say r6? So i don't know what to do?
I think the first post says it all.
R6 throttle tube is the way to go, less turn to achieve full throttle.
:thumbup
 

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I tried this but my throttle cable is to short?
I have a k7 750, I can't adjust it anymore at the throttle bodies, the nuts are all the way into the mount
 

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you could simply remove one lock nut and it will give you a few mm more cable play. have you tried just removing an adjuster from where it sits, installing the tube, then putting the adjuster back in place? i had to do that for my k6.
 

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you could simply remove one lock nut and it will give you a few mm more cable play. have you tried just removing an adjuster from where it sits, installing the tube, then putting the adjuster back in place? i had to do that for my k6.
Yeah I tried that and It allows for a little more slack, but if I get it on and try to tighten it back up, when the handlebars are turned all the way to the left the throttle will not snap back into place like it should normally. I am thinking I need a new throttle cable
 

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hey guys great info in this thread

trying to source the R6 throttle tube here in Aus...

I can't find anything online locally, prices from overseas are good (double what they started out as in the beginning of the thread) however shipping is pushing the cost out to $70 which is into the realm of billet throttle tubes.

Does anyone else know of alternative model throttle tubes that are equivalent, or an Australian source.

peace out
 

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All Yamaha shops will be able to order the tube for you if they don't have it in stock.

Use US parts fiche to work out the part number you want.
 

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I got quoted $60 for a genuine yamaha R6 throttle tube so instead...

I picked up an R1 tube and both grips today from a wreckers for $20 , couldn't locate an R6 tube in a short time

Simple fit, but you all knew that, I really like the crisp throttle action, and an added bonus is that the grip seems to be a slightly larger diameter - the upside is that it's actually easier to ride smoothly from low RPM in first.

I'm actually pondering modifying the original tube to be progressive like the Graves tube and see if I can bring it in at about 1/4 turn when finished
 
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