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Hey all,

Manual states it's due at 600 miles. Doesn't that seem a little early? Why should it be done so quickly?

Has anybody done it/not done it? What was the end result?

THe funny thing is, when I called my dealer for the 600 mile service, they didn't even mention syncing the TB's. They just said oil/filter/chain/clutch, which I did myself.

Feedback anyone?

BTW, I have about 1500 miles and have not done it yet, bike runs great. Will do it at the 4K service.
 

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Hey all,

Manual states it's due at 600 miles. Doesn't that seem a little early? Why should it be done so quickly?

Has anybody done it/not done it? What was the end result?

THe funny thing is, when I called my dealer for the 600 mile service, they didn't even mention syncing the TB's. They just said oil/filter/chain/clutch, which I did myself.

Feedback anyone?

BTW, I have about 1500 miles and have not done it yet, bike runs great. Will do it at the 4K service.
I do mine every oil change, but I beat the shit outa my bike so yea. A major sign of out of sync TB's is an unstable idle. If you dont have this then I wouldnt worry about it.
 

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Hmmm..yea i can get pics, later though. You need a carb sync tool in order to do this, motion pro makes a good one: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/syncpro/

Its kinda easy to explain if you have worked on your bike before.
1) Prop up the tank and remove the air box. Here is the Spark Plug DIY, it tells you how to do remove it:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114103
2) Unplug the vacuum sensor (SEE PIC). On the bottom of this sensor you will see a piece of tubing, from this tube it will branch off to the throttle bodies, these are your vacuum hoses. Remove the VACUUM hose from each throttle body. FYI There are 2 hoses on each throttle body, the vacuum tube is the LOWER hose.
3) Replace the VACUUM tubes you just unplugged with the tubes from the sync tool, 1 per throttle body.
4) Start the bike, you will have an FI error, its ok, let the bike warm up. Once its warm adjust the idle to around 1500-2000 RPM, using the idle adjustment screw. Furing this entire process try not to REV the bike too hard because you will suck fluid into the throttle body (bad joojoo).
5) Adjust the throttle body using the small GOLD adjustment screw located on the top of the throttle body (SEE PIC). What you want is the vacuum pressures to be even across the tool. So adjust each one to make this happen. If only one cylinder is out of sync, then just adjust that one first. Keep in mind though, if you adjust one the others might move too, so its a balancing act. Dont get frustrated, just keep making small adjustments and eventually they will all even out.
6) Once your done, replace the vacuum tubes and plug in the vacuum sensor, replace the air box and its tubes, put everything back together that you took off. Start the bike again and enjoy.
 

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i had mine done at 17k when i got the valve check/adjustment done. honestly, i didn't even need the work done since the check was w/in spec. but the bike was just much crisp after that and a throttle sync and removing one more piece of the of the emission stuff under the air box. if your bike is a race bike or track only, probably don't need a throttle sync since you're usually at high revs.
 

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two things to mention. One is that you can Rev the bike, but you have to be SMOOTH. If you chop the throttle it causes a spike in vacuum and will suck Mercury into the TBs (assuming you are using a mercury type gauge.... old school mechanics will tell you they are the most accurate)

The other is that there is an order to go in to avoid the balancing dance he spoke of.

I cant remember what the order is on this bike though. I could look and tell, but not off the top of my head. The way the butterflys work they are all linked together. As you adjust one you will move another most of the time. You want to adjust them in such was way as that you adjust the last one to move, then the one it is attatched to. Then typically you will want to do the other two, to match using the one of them not atatched to the first two, then set the last two to match the first two.

Sometimes it is 4-3-1-2 3/4-1/2 or 4-3-2-1 4/3 2/1 .... it just really depends on maker and model.

For someone who cant look at them and figure it out, you can do the dance as he says, but it can be fustrating, and in some rare occasions can make it difficult to get the idle back right with the idle screw.
 

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Hmmm..yea i can get pics, later though. You need a carb sync tool in order to do this, motion pro makes a good one: Motion Pro

Its kinda easy to explain if you have worked on your bike before.
1) Prop up the tank and remove the air box. Here is the Spark Plug DIY, it tells you how to do remove it:
DIY Plug Change.
2) Unplug the vacuum sensor (SEE PIC). On the bottom of this sensor you will see a piece of tubing, from this tube it will branch off to the throttle bodies, these are your vacuum hoses. Remove the VACUUM hose from each throttle body. FYI There are 2 hoses on each throttle body, the vacuum tube is the LOWER hose.
3) Replace the VACUUM tubes you just unplugged with the tubes from the sync tool, 1 per throttle body.
4) Start the bike, you will have an FI error, its ok, let the bike warm up. Once its warm adjust the idle to around 1500-2000 RPM, using the idle adjustment screw. Furing this entire process try not to REV the bike too hard because you will suck fluid into the throttle body (bad joojoo).
5) Adjust the throttle body using the small GOLD adjustment screw located on the top of the throttle body (SEE PIC). What you want is the vacuum pressures to be even across the tool. So adjust each one to make this happen. If only one cylinder is out of sync, then just adjust that one first. Keep in mind though, if you adjust one the others might move too, so its a balancing act. Dont get frustrated, just keep making small adjustments and eventually they will all even out.
6) Once your done, replace the vacuum tubes and plug in the vacuum sensor, replace the air box and its tubes, put everything back together that you took off. Start the bike again and enjoy.
Will this work for a2013? Manual says to take it to the shop
 

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read your warranty(s) and see what it says about servicing at MANDATORY service intervals.. typically it MUST be done by an authorized Suzuki WARRANTY service department, the 600 mile is definitely one as the bike came with break in oil, they drain and inspect that to see how the engine is breaking in! they check a lot of other stuff as well.. lest that's how 1000cc and the Hayabusa works.. there are 4 mandatory intervals that must be performed by Suzuki..

the 1200
the 8000
the 12000

are all typically mandatory service intervals and they do need to be documented carefully so read all your paperwork later and make sure each and every item was addressed and noted..

if any item was neglected Suzuki CAN reject any warranty claims, even if you changed your own oil.. so on these intervals let Suzuki change your oil/filter as well..

in between these intervals you must document and save receipts for your oil/filter changes, do not skimp on oil quality they can get you there as well, make sure it meets or exceeds recommended oil/filter requirements!

been there done that
 

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hmm... I had or maybe still have the old motion pro merc sticks.. my dial gauges set have to be chynese, best guess.. then I bought that popular one the carbtune pro, those are the only 3 I have ever used actually..

they key is having one that's actually dialed in and calibrated and if you use the gauge style you the better you dial those in (calibrate) the better overall tune you will get, obviously the merc sticks and carbtune pro are not adjustable you don't dial them in, preset, weight..

hmm.. wonder if they really have these in stock can they still send mercury in the mail?

 
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