[Danishguy]

Hey!
I have a problem with my Suzuki gsxr1000 k3.
I was out for a drive, went over a regular fartbump and the old lady went out… the display only had the orange backlight after (see picture), it cranks but no start. Never had this problem before.
I diagnosed that the fuse for the fuel had blown, it was been replaced and the display now work correctly.

Unfortunately I can't get the lady to start again...
I don't get any code in dealer mode. When I try to start, I can get it to cranks but it won't start.

I have tested the following and it works and there is power through:
Killswitch button as well as at the safety at coupling and support leg
Starter relay
Relay for fuel system
Spark plugs (they are clean and intact)
Starter motor
Fuel pump (prime when ignition)

The battery has 12.7V at rest and when trying to start it drops to 10V. Unfortunately, I don't have a battery tester, so I can't say for sure if the battery is ok.
I'll get a new battery tomorrow and put it in to see if it solves the problem.

Do you guys have any suggestions what could be causing the problem, I'll give it a try tomorrow?

Thank you!

 

[TwistedMister]

check obvious things that can fault due to a rugged ride.. tip over switch, clutch sensor, side stand sensor, all connectors, wiring so forth, specially ignition and clocks, ECU.. go over everything make sure its all clean and plugged in tight no pins jarred loose whatever

 

[BillV]

Check the voltage on the O/G lead to the dealer mode connector. It should be at battery voltage with the ignition and kill switch on. Also check the R lead on the nearby Suzuki Access Port connector. It should be 5 volts. Check all fuses with an ohmmeter. They can look OK but be bad.

Having said that, the clutch switch, side-stand switch, and interlock relay ought to be working if it cranks. I think yours has a connector under the seat for installing an external alarm. It has a jumper that's associated with power to the ECM. If the fuel pump primes, it should be OK and indicates that the ECM is getting power. There ought to be a C23 code if the TOS is in a tipped state. Can you check for power to the coils (Gr lead) and the injectors (Y/R lead)? Will the horn blow? Have you tried putting it in dealer mode? You could also try priming it with some gas down the throttle body to see if it will run briefly.

 

[Danishguy]

check obvious things that can fault due to a rugged ride.. tip over switch, clutch sensor, side stand sensor, all connectors, wiring so forth, specially ignition and clocks, ECU.. go over everything make sure its all clean and plugged in tight no pins jarred loose whatever

Thanks!
I have tested almost all of your suggestions, but not the tip over sensor and ECU so will try that.
How can I test if the ECU got the power it needs?

 

[Danishguy]

Check the voltage on the O/G lead to the dealer mode connector. It should be at battery voltage with the ignition and kill switch on. Also check the R lead on the nearby Suzuki Access Port connector. It should be 5 volts. Check all fuses with an ohmmeter. They can look OK but be bad.

Having said that, the clutch switch, side-stand switch, and interlock relay ought to be working if it cranks. I think yours has a connector under the seat for installing an external alarm. It has a jumper that's associated with power to the ECM. If the fuel pump primes, it should be OK and indicates that the ECM is getting power. There ought to be a C23 code if the TOS is in a tipped state. Can you check for power to the coils (Gr lead) and the injectors (Y/R lead)? Will the horn blow? Have you tried putting it in dealer mode? You could also try priming it with some gas down the throttle body to see if it will run briefly.

I have checked all the things you mentioned above and there is voltage. All the fuses are good.
The horn blows and no codes in dealer mode.

I will check for power to the coils and the injectors and put gas down the throttle body to see if it will run.
Thanks!

 

[boostenlebaron]

Did you check for spark, not just look at the plugs? I would use starter fluid to try to get it to go as well. Dumping fuel into the bodies is a mess.

 

[Danishguy]

Did you check for spark, not just look at the plugs? I would use starter fluid to try to get it to go as well. Dumping fuel into the bodies is a mess.

Yes, tested for spark yesterday and it’s fine.

 

[boostenlebaron]

Is your display still blank?

 

[BillV]

"How can I test if the ECU got the power it needs?"
That's what the O/G lead on the dealer mode connector is about. The ECM gets power from two leads, a R/Bl that's always hot and an O/G that comes from the ignition switch via the kill switch and interlock relay. Yours seems to be OK. The R lead is 5 volts to various sensors, is produced by the ECM, and is an indication that the ECM has power and is functioning - at least at a low level. Ditto the fuel pump priming. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The cluster also has a R/Bl that's always hot and a switched O/G. Note that many dealer mode codes are volatile and go away if the ignition is turned off.

 

[Danishguy]

Is your display still blank?

No, the display is working now after the fuse change. At least that’s working 😅

"How can I test if the ECU got the power it needs?"
That's what the O/G lead on the dealer mode connector is about. The ECM gets power from two leads, a R/Bl that's always hot and an O/G that comes from the ignition switch via the kill switch and interlock relay. Yours seems to be OK. The R lead is 5 volts to various sensors, is produced by the ECM, and is an indication that the ECM has power and is functioning - at least at a low level. Ditto the fuel pump priming. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The cluster also has a R/Bl that's always hot and a switched O/G. Note that many dealer mode codes are volatile and go away if the ignition is turned off.

There is power to the coils and the injection. I have tested all their wires and there is power and a full circuit around the system. ECM got power too and there is voltage when ignition on and the R lead got 5 volts.

I had borrow a battery tester and my battery got both volts and amps as it should.

Could it maybe be the motor in the fuel pump there is dead? - I mean, I can hear the fuel sensor working, but I can’t see any fuel in the throttle body when cranking?

 

[peter079]

Maybe when you went over a bump and something in the fuel pump fell apart and caused a
short circuit and blew the fuel fuse. You fixed the fuse but you need to fix the pump?

@BillV and @boostenlebaron have already mentioned to check if bike starts with starter fluid.
Maybe try this.

 

[boostenlebaron]

It's easy enough to pop the fuel line and see if its flowing.

 

[Danishguy]

Thanks guys, I’ll try that and pull the fuel pump apart to test it.
I’ll be back ✌

 

[boostenlebaron]

No need to pull it apart. In fact I wouldn't if I wanted to test it. Just disconnect the line from the throttle bodies and run it into a jog then cycle the key.

 

[Danishguy]

No need to pull it apart. In fact I wouldn't if I wanted to test it. Just disconnect the line from the throttle bodies and run it into a jog then cycle the key.

That’s a good point, thanks.
I will try that tomorrow 👍

 

[Danishguy]

Maybe when you went over a bump and something in the fuel pump fell apart and caused a
short circuit and blew the fuel fuse. You fixed the fuse but you need to fix the pump?

@BillV and @boostenlebaron have already mentioned to check if bike starts with starter fluid.
Maybe try this.

the bike starts with starter fluid but after a few seconds dies…
I have tested the wire to the fuel pump one more time and there is voltage. So that’s leave me with the fuel pump itself.
The pressure in the fuel system and tank is good and not dropping, so my next move will be to pull the fuel pump apart and test the motor inside?

Any other suggestions? - thanks!

 

[peter079]

Initially, I was thinking that perhaps one of the terminal nuts in the pump had come loose and caused a short circuit and blew the fuel fuse. But now you are saying that you have fuel pressure, so I could be wrong on this.

 

[boostenlebaron]

Can you keep the bike running on starter fluid if you keep spraying? I'm thinking that maybe you have a clogged line going into the injectors. Can you smell gas on the plugs if you keep cranking it without the fluid? It should flood out pretty quickly if the injectors are working.
This is getting to be a strange problem but at least it starts on fluid.

 

[BillV]

"The pressure in the fuel system and tank is good"
I'm not sure what that means. There shouldn't be any pressure in the tank. It sounds like you might be measuring a deadheaded pressure from the fuel pump. Is that so? A more meaningful test is the Fuel Discharge Amount Inspection described on 5-7 of the service manual. You have spark, the fuel pump primes, and it will briefly run when manually primed. So it's a fuel supply problem. I'm now wondering if the fuel line is kinked or the main filter in the pump is badly clogged. Something wrong with the injector wiring, particularly 12 volt power to the injectors, or really badly clogged injectors are other possibilities.

 

[Danishguy]

"The pressure in the fuel system and tank is good"
I'm not sure what that means. There shouldn't be any pressure in the tank. It sounds like you might be measuring a deadheaded pressure from the fuel pump. Is that so? A more meaningful test is the Fuel Discharge Amount Inspection described on 5-7 of the service manual. You have spark, the fuel pump primes, and it will briefly run when manually primed. So it's a fuel supply problem. I'm now wondering if the fuel line is kinked or the main filter in the pump is badly clogged. Something wrong with the injector wiring, particularly 12 volt power to the injectors, or really badly clogged injectors are other possibilities.

yes, if I keep spraying starter fluid she keeps running.
I have disassembled the fuel pump and there is no loose bolts at first view. The main filter looks fine. I have tested the motor itself inside the fuel pump and it’s working.
I think you’re right about the injector wiring because when it cranks there is no fuel in the throttle and spark plugs aren’t wet.
So next step is to test the wiring - have to find the manual to look that up, that’s for sure 😅

Thanks! I’ll be back with the results soon.