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So, 2007 GSXR-750. Bike's been garaged kept for the winter w/o a tender. Yeah I know. Anyways, throw her on a tender last week and all good to go. Start up is like usual, take a nice ride out, all is well right? Well, well, well.. next day. Bam! No battery life. So I'm thinkin its the good ole' R/R or Stator.

12.4V on battery, 10+ on cranking and battery will hold a charge. Test at 5k range and raises to 14.3+. Good battery.

So, next step the parasitic draw. 12.2mA!! Woah! So, attach my positive lead to the negative on the battery post and the positive lead on the negative battery cable and start pulling plugs... all and all, pull my headlight/tach harness and... 0.00mA! No draw which is weird, but ill take it. End up tracing it down to just my Tachometer. Everything is plugged in like usual except the tach. Still, 0.00mA.

So, question is, have any of you guys had a tach go bad and pull that much? Also, tach and everything associated with it still work perfect. Reads RPM, gears and MPH. Doesn't make any sense to me. New tach ordered and en route. We've all had the parasitic draw before, just didn't know if any of you guys had it come from there before.
 

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Also, when I hooked up my leads to the terminal and the battery cable to check the draw, my tach would do the usual raise from 0 to maxed out and then back down. No lights would turn on or anything, just the tach itself would do it's usual "test" before startup. Weird....
 

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I thought the usual draw was supposed to be around .02mA. But don't quote me on that. Part was about $180 used. I just didn't figure since my tach was working like normal it wouldn't take that big of a draw when the key is out. Didn't know if anyone else has ever had a tach go "bad" before and still work.
 

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The drain spec is 3mA max. My K6 1000 measured .93 mA with a spike to 1.03 mA every three seconds or so. Immobilizer equipped bikes should be higher but yours doesn't sound like one. 12.2 mA is too high. Do you have any accessories like a Speedo Healer? The cluster gets power from two leads. One (O/G) is switched and the other (R/Bl), which maintains the presets, is always hot. The tach sweeps when the battery is connected as the memory gets power again.

Note that the R/Bl also runs to the fuel pump relay and the ECM. It also runs through the big connector inside the left front cowling, which is a known trouble spot. Make sure that the leak is at the cluster.
 

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Start at square one. You are jumping to conclusions. A bad tach? :rollseyes

12.4 on your battery is telling you it's fucked.

You let the bike sit for months without a tender. This caused corrosion on the surfaces within the battery. Corrosion on the surfaces meant less good surface area for electron movement. You raised the internal resistance of the battery by a lot. A good battery, 2 hours after being charged will sit at around 13.6 volts.

Here is an article on what I'm on about. Ignore performance numbers they might give because you are using a motorcyle battery. I'm gonna go right on ahead and say I didn't peruse this article, just skimmed.
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/sulfation_and_how_to_prevent_it

Your 14.3 means that the R/R regulates voltage. You should still do a stator test and diode test.
 
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