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I'm about to do this on my 03 1k, anything different from this write up? Also, is it just my computer or are there no pictures in the original post?
 

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Great Job On The Photos And Directions I Injoyed It But I Thing I Will Bring Mine To Some One That Has Done Them Before The Price You Will Pay For A 200 Mph Wobble Is To High
 

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awesome writeup! I'm going to get to work on my seals ASAP b4 trackday season (before march 14). Winter mods/race prep....isn't it great??!!
 

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Awsome write up, now I'm actually thinking of DIY instead of taking them in. How much more work is it to replace the valves, shims?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
its not too bad to do anything with them...people treat forks kinda as a taboo but really if you break them down its not all that bad...just remember to run fluid as close to OEM weight as possible...heavier oil does not equal stiffer forks...it equals SLOWER WORKING forks...
 

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wish i read this before i spent over $200 to have my fork seals replaced - AND THAT WAS ME BRINGING THEM THE FORKS - Not only that it took them A WEEK to do it! Champion Powersports in Belleville, mi. Knew I was getting jacked. Will never go back there - Only reason I didn't do it myself is a didn't have the tools = most useful part about this article is making the tools you need.
 

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wish i read this before i spent over $200 to have my fork seals replaced - AND THAT WAS ME BRINGING THEM THE FORKS - Not only that it took them A WEEK to do it! Champion Powersports in Belleville, mi. Knew I was getting jacked. Will never go back there - Only reason I didn't do it myself is a didn't have the tools = most useful part about this article is making the tools you need.

Even if you decide to not make the tools, you can buy a kit from Traxxion that has them for 1/2 the cost of what you paid to the dealer.

http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=CFTK
 

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Very nice write up! I recently purchased new springs and seals but have been putting off the install as the service manual makes the job appear a little intimidating. I have a couple of additional questions. First, I see that you used a flat bladed screwdriver as your "fork seal removal tool". I assume that means the special removal tool is unnecessary, correct? Also, it appears that you just stuck the seals in by hand and slid the top tube over the bottom tube without using the "fork seal driver tool." Is this yet another unnecessary tool? I got the impression from the service manual that these two special tools were critical to the fork seal installation procedure. Is this just BS designed to make us spend money on tools or intimidate us into taking our forks to the shop or are these tools really necessary to a proper installation?
thanks in advance,
JeffH
 

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JeffH ... You don't NEED either of those tools. As long as you understand what they're meant to do and you can find a cheap alternative way to remove and replace the seal then those specific tools are just over kill.
 

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Unfortunately I have never seen the real tools in action and I don't quite know what the fork seals look like or how to remove/re-install them correctly. Thankfully fork seals are fairly inexpensive so I may just try the screwdriver method for removal being very careful not to ding the inside of the fork tubes. If I can't get the new ones in I can always run them over to the local shop and have them do it. They're pretty good about helping me out with my do it yourself stuff. Does anyone have any advice on how to remove/re-install the fork seals without the high dollar fork seal tools?
Thanks,
JeffH
 

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well i've ruined like 4 shirts cuz i cant stop riding my bike even though fork oil blows off the broken seal and onto my chest on the highway...i'm trying this over the winter before i hand over close to $300 for someone else to do it. thanks nitro
 

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I just successfully replaced my seals based on the directions in this thread and some how to videos on you tube. While I had them open I took the opportunity to replace the springs with some from racetech that are more appropriate for my weight(I have done springs before but on conventional forks.) You will need the appropriate tools but you can make them pretty cheap. If you plan to buy the tools you'll probably just break even on what the dealer charges. I used ratchet straps to compress the spring but you need the kind that "unratchet" or it gets kind of scary when you release the tension. I used a piece of PVC pipe (it took a while to find the right size)for the seal driver and a large flat bladed screwdriver to pop the old ones out (carefully, I might add.) All in all it was a piece of cake. The first fork took about two hours because I worked slowly and took notes. The second one took about 15 minutes. I can now do it with my eyes closed. By the way, the springs made a huge difference. I would recommend doing the springs while you have them open unless you fall into the "ideal" weight range. (~160 pounds or so.) I also dialed in my sag, something that was impossible with the old springs. Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
Thanks,
JeffH
 
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