Thanks. Yea I was going to go from 34mm to 38mm but decided against it after reading some of the hassle with fitting them in the stock engine and airbox.
Heat guns etc...
I was told the 36mm fat slides would be a big enough improvement.
Bigger isn't always better.
If it's a street bike, flat slide 36mm carbs will provide great mid-range with a stock 1100...with the pipe and re-jetting, it will be fun!
Again, if you're not chasing peak hp, at the expense of street manners...leave the air box on it. It will be easier to dial in, rather than trying to fill the hole in your mid-range.
I want the performance for sure but I am not competitively racing this beast. If I did that I would have to sink to many $$$ into it.
I definitely dont want to kill mid range, its all the fun on the street and small tight track.
36mm Flat slides and K&N filters are the ticket for an otherwise stock motor with a pipe. Mid-range will be plentiful, you'll have a choke, and the carbs won't flood/overwhelm the motor down low in the rev range like larger carbs. Combined with a pipe on an otherwise stock motor your looking at about 130-133rwhp. I've used that exact combo on my (then stock) 86 GSXR1100 and it woke it right up. The 36mm carbs also worked beautifully when the motor went to 1186cc, cams, big valves, and fully ported head....made 155rwhp with that combo. It when went to 1255cc and 41mm Keihins...but that's another story.
Have a set of 36mm flat slides on the way, but meantime lept in and pulled out the 34mm BS carbs to clean them up and fit a stage 3 dynojet kit.
Spent some time reading the carbs sticky and threads but obviously not enough.
Learnt some valuable newbie lessons:
- Carbs are hard to get out, but a damn sight easier if you get the air box to carb rubbers out of the way by pulling them out from inside the airbox
- Be careful removing the carbs choke rod etc as their are two little sets of springs and balls that will ping out and disappear if your not careful. Or in my case really lucky as they dropped and I spotted them and wondered where the hell they came from
- Flat sliders need a push pull throttle (Motion pro) however the throttle handle doesn't fit on the standard bars. A few threads about this saying use a CBR or Yamaha R1 right hand handle switch or try and get an early model GSXR 750 handle switch that had push pull throttle as standard.
So I have a R1 switch coming and will play novice electrician and fit it. Hopefully no other hoops to jump through to get the flat sliders fitted.
Got the RS 36mm Flat sliders and attempted to fit them with stock airbox. This epicly failed.
Had to use a ratchet strop to get the buggers into the stock 34mm rubbers (Must be magic getting 40s to fit) given the head carb boots are 32 years old I suspect I am lucky I got them in at all.
If you can afford it, order 4 new boots to fit your new carbs, dont try and stretch the old ones.
Once I got them in I realized there was no way it was going to work with the stock airbox. Primarily because of the flat slider carbs idle screw which hits the airbox.
Plus there is no room for a fart, let alone a fat set of fingers trying to adjust the idle screw etc....
Soooo left staring down the barrel of a stock airbox removal and K&N pods
I ordered a YZF R1 throttle switch to replace the stock as its too wide to add a push pull motion pro throttle when you have standard bars.
So beware there be dragons.
I mounted it wired it in and amazingly didn't cock it up i.e. the new switch worked.
However I found the YZF R1 with the light switch is a little bit wider by about 2-5mm.
If you do go for a YZF R1 or CBR switch either get longer bars or get a version that doesn't have the light switch - i.e. off, parking, on option. The switch body is not as wide.
i.e. Switch with light hard wired on and provide on / off and start only.
I did get what I got to work but had to use a craft knife to remove 3 mm off my throttle grip to allow the handle weight to push hard up against the bar end.
Faced with stock airbox removal as there is no way I am gonna destroy stock parts. Worth way to much and nostalgic.
SO gen 1 airbox removal hopefully without taking out or maybe only partially taking out the engine.
I read threads and dropped the engine and tried all sorts of plastic airbox origami but no. It would not come out.
Ended up pulling engine out to the right by 50% to clear gear spigot and drop down further to allow airbox to come out.
All done now and memory pushed into far reaches of my mind
Once airbox was out fitting was easier and much more room to tweak idle screw.
I got K&N pod filters and can see why others dont like them much. Dont quite fit (Hit frame) and the dont fit well on 36mmm carbs.
However I got them on and got her started.
Whilst doing the work I found the clutch and brake line rubbers are old and dodgy.
Have Hayabusa clutch and brake master cylinders coming and a set of braided lines, hopefully they get here in time for me to fit before the ride.
I have been for 2 rides after the changes and the difference in performance is huge.
I appreciate the contribution of members here to help me on the way.
Without it the noobie damage would have been far more significant.
Struggling to to get the rear wheel bearings out. I can move the inner sleeve but it doesnt move enough to get a decent bite on the bearing with a punch to whack it out. Tried an internal bearing puller with legs but that could not get a bite either. Will get a blind bearing puller set and hopefully I can get them out with that
Frame restore a bit disappointing couldn't get it cleaned up enough for a clear powder coat. Looking at a double powder coat that will cover the corrosion pits and look like the original satin aluminum finish
Stripping down the old anti dives and brakes ready for gold powdercoat