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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello, my bike starts normally when it's cold. after driving when it warms up I turn it off and after that it won't start. I have to wait for it to cool down to start again. does he know maybe how to solve this malfunction
 

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When it is hot, what is the temperature on the instrument panel ? Does it turn over ?
 

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We need a lot more information. Does it crank? Does the fuel pump prime? Does the cluster display CHEC and then the temperature? What mods have been made?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We need a lot more information. Does it crank? Does the fuel pump prime? Does the cluster display CHEC and then the temperature? What mods have been made?
engine running normally, driving normally. but when the problem heats up. I have to wait about 30 minutes to cool, the temperature must be below 150 f. and on the screen when I turn it on, it says check. the temperature and FI indicator change while driving
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When it is hot, what is the temperature on the instrument panel ? Does it turn over ?
[/QUOTE
When it is hot, what is the temperature on the instrument panel ? Does it turn over ?
as far as I could figure out when it reaches a temperature over 150 f then it won't fire. sometimes I fool him when at 155, 165 f I turn the throttle and start the engine
 

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"the temperature and FI indicator change while driving"
So you get a FI display? Have you used dealer mode to find out what the code is?

Have you tried push starting the bike when it's hot? This wouldn't be that hard if you parked on a hill.

Have you tried turning the bike off when above 150 F and immediately checking to see if it will restart? This could be different than waiting several minutes.

Have you checked all the battery cable connections, including those between the starter solenoid and the starter?
 

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Does it have an aftermarket stator cover? Or did you remove the stator cover and not use an OEM gasket?

What is the battery voltage when you try to start it cold vs warm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
"the temperature and FI indicator change while driving"
So you get a FI display? Have you used dealer mode to find out what the code is?

Have you tried push starting the bike when it's hot? This wouldn't be that hard if you parked on a hill.

Have you tried turning the bike off when above 150 F and immediately checking to see if it will restart? This could be different than waiting several minutes.

Have you checked all the battery cable connections, including those between the starter solenoid and the starter?
yes, it has a fi screen. sometimes I turn it off when it heats up and I immediately try to turn it on and on when I add gas to it but it only sometimes works. and can ignite when you push it
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does it have an aftermarket stator cover? Or did you remove the stator cover and not use an OEM gasket?

What is the battery voltage when you try to start it cold vs warm?
I was checking the voltage. cold was ok. and the heat draws out all the voltage. on the meter it shows 0% and then I repaired the starter - alnaser. how do you think I removed the seal
 

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+1 Even in the desert 230 F is about as much as you should see. Something's wrong if it goes to 240 F. In town it should run up to 220 F and promptly drop down to 210 F when the fan turns on.
 

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+1 Even in the desert 230 F is about as much as you should see. Something's wrong if it goes to 240 F. In town it should run up to 220 F and promptly drop down to 210 F when the fan turns on.

no jokes get going or shut er down at 240, I bet she spits and spews coolant all over your boot.. that's fairly hot, she gets to 255-260 you are in head warping gasket crushing territory and then you have serious issues... what can happen is the head expands so much the pins cannot keep up and they stretch.. then when she cools the gasket has been crushed to nothin so there is now room for warpage or leakage.. not fun

why folks in hot climates get those inline remote fan on/off switches, activate the fan at will like when you know you are already at 190 or so and coming to a stop and its 105 outside, crank her on get ahead of the cooling cuz sometimes it's hard to catch up less you have like a busa that has a massive cooling system, the little bikes even 1K's want to save weight and space so they have puny radiators with puny cooling tubes..

check the flow Busa vs a 600, over half more flow for Busa, and the busa has a sealed body kit, even around the clocks so she needs a good size radiator and good flow, when she's movin she can dissipate some heat in a hurry...
 

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what could be. outdoors is 220 to 225f. the fan turns on but the temperature does not drop. and there is only water in the cooling system.

try putting in recommended coolant with distilled water or premixed.. burp it good see what happens, my cousin is going through the same issue on his black/red 05, he is getting the 0000 code and he thinks its getting hotter than the gauge says and the fan is coming on late.. myguess is its sensor and he has air in the system, so hopefully it's not a leak, I'll prolly fix it when I go up there...

use recommended coolant and use the funnel trick to insure she is completely full with zero air in system, burp several times.. thing is when a system has the tiniest leak the amount of coolant being lost is insignificant and it evaps right away, however air can get sucked into the system through this leak so you end up chasing your tail, look everywhere for the smallest sign of leakage, using pure water will not help with this as it leaves zero residue after it evaps?

coolant will leave a slight residue of green that looks like tarnish, so after a few times of it leaking it builds up and you can see it easily, like around the radiator hoses where they connect, every square inch of the radiator, specially visible seams but you could have gotten a rock lodged in and it's a leak less thana pin hole, not losing much coolant at all, but its introducing air into the system and that's no good....

an air pocket around the sensor and it will fubar.. around the head/barrel seam, around the thermostat housing gasket, anywhere coolant has a chance to escape.. leaks are a bugger and can be a bugaboo... I will say right now with confidence a 100% sealed leak proof system is mandatory for a cooling system to work 100%..

you could mark your reservoir with a marker exactly where the water level is exactly then run it several times a few long ones on the freeway or somewhere you don't have to worry she overheats, if there is a leak she will leak even on freeway, and each time you shut down the water lost will be sucked back up from the reservoir and you will see a drop in the level, be sure to park it in the exact same spot, level is best so you get a correct reading..

I always say insure the system is sealed 100% then move on from there, on to sensors, if that's not it then water pump, then flow test radiator, or you can have a shop pressure test it when it's hot make sure its not leaking.. then make sure water pump is 100%..

nothing is worse than overheating issues, I fookin hate them and cannot wait for summer to be over so I don't have to deal with it anymore..
 
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