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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure most, if not all of you have seen the Sport Rider recommended setup guide. This one: http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_susp_settings/ My question is this, how close would the 97 GSXR 1100 be to the 94? Has anyone seen a guide for the 94?

I know I keep bringing this up, but although the bike does handle rather well, I just can't rest till I am certain that I have it right. I want to know that if I low-side tightening a line in a turn, that the bike did all it could, and not be thinking, "If I'd had it right, I wouldn't be spending all this money and trying to heal up to ride again."

BTW here is the 97 data, dosen't line up but I don't see any problem figuring it out, and if you can't copy and past it into someting else, but don't bitch at me about it....



motorcycle, front preload, front rebound damping, front comp. damping, rear preload, rear rebound damping, rear comp. damping

GSX-R1100 ('97) 3 lines showing 2 clicks out 10 clicks out 70 percent of max stiff 8 clicks out
 

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Their method of setting preload is dependant on the rider weighing what their test riders weigh. Thats not the proper way..... Set your Sag (preload) according to these instructions Race Tech Then use Sport Riders compression and rebound numbers from their 97 specs for a starting point.

Personally I prefer good suspension over HP so installing new fork springs and a good rear shock will make a much bigger impact on your bikes handling than trying to get the most out of your stock suspension. If you really want to remove all doubt then go that route....

I've never kept the OEM shock on any of the bikes I've owned.... they are all junk!! One of the very first things I did on my sons bike was to put a fox shock on it. It made all the difference in the world, completely transforming the bike. I wouldn't have him riding on anything less!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, GixxerRacer317. I'll follow your instructions on set-up and start pricing parts. Need to take the forks apart to replace a blown seal anyway, so might as well use the opportunity to do a bit more.

Any suggestions on parts sources?
 

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I have to take the time to strongly agree with 317's comments. OEM suspension is, sorry to say, a pile of crap. When you combine the facts that a) Japan NEVER baselined there suspension for anyone other than home market, ie 125-150 pounds max, b) the stock shocks are shit, c) by the time you are writing this post, your shock has died of old age.

The best thing you can do for these bikes is to invest in an aftermarket shock, then a front set of springs, with appropriate seals and bushings and oil etc. I've seen a number of full on race engines in otherwise stock chassis.....they just plain suck suck suck suck suck...you cannot stably get the power to the ground.

There are many ways of upgrading your suspenders, from Race Tech rebuilds (and their competitors) to running Ohlins and other aftermarket goodies. Try to find something within that spread that your budget can handle. Then be prepared to enjoy. Well, once you get the new suspension setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Went home, looked under the bike at the rear shock, and noticed that the pre-load adjusters were cranked down, way down. When I sit on the bike, I notice no movement. This is totally by feel, no measurements were taken. I am no lightweight, 210 lbs, but I think there is way too much preload in the rear.

Second, how much dive is normal for hard braking? It was fully compressing the front, but after stiffening up the compression dampening, it isn't as bad, but with only about 5 inches of front travel, I hate to give up much to braking. I take it that there just isn't any way to seperatly adjust high and low speed (fork travel speed) compression dampening?

As far as a dead rear shock, my bike only has 3500 miles total on it, and the shock isn't barfing out its inner vital fluids yet...though I understand that it is crap to start with, do you still think that it is defective now at 9 years, though low miles...

That's about it for now
and thanks for the replies


-Dave
 

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Re the old oem shock, if nothing else, the factory charge of nitrogen has pissed out over time , leaving it sacked. Guys like Race Tech can work magic with the oem shock, especially with a heavyweight like yourself. No diss, since I outweigh you by about 50 pounds. I guarantee you that there is not really sufficient preload available to compensate for that kind of weight and leave you with any spring sweet spot. The biggest pain, stock-wise, is our bikes being quite porky, sweating the stock suspension by itself.

I run 1.1 kg front springs and a 21kg/mm rear spring on reworked oem forks and an Ohlins shock. The suspension works beautifully for me based on the requirements I spec'd them for.The comparison between stock and what I have now is so far apart as to describe two different bikes. The old bikes are built like a brick shithouse with a killer drivetrain. All of the suspension basics were top drawer for oem at that time. Putting some dollars into the suspension of our older bikes is quite often where you eliminate a lot of the performance gaps between us and the new/newer bikes.

...oh, that and an extra 2 or 3 teeth on our rear sprockets when compared to stock
 

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Putting some dollars into the suspension of our older bikes is quite often where you eliminate a lot of the performance gaps between us and the new/newer bikes.

...oh, that and an extra 2 or 3 teeth on our rear sprockets when compared to stock
So true there!! Just for comparison purposes...... take my sons friends 98 SRAD 750 with stock suspension that I did alot of tuning on (and testing
) before he totaled it out
vs my sons 93 Gixxer 750 with a Fox shock out back. Most people might think the SRAD would Own the 93 Gixxer but from a performance stand point on a race track I could turn times much quicker on the 93 than the SRAD....... the shock made that much of a difference!!

The Fox shock I have on the 93 Gixxer isn't even for a GSXR 750 either......it's for a ZX-9R!!



On my own personal bike "also known as the Orange Beast" thanks to Bobby.....
I have reworked the front forks with Race Tech Gold valves and Race Tech .95Kg. Springs and have a Fox Shock out back with an SRS link..... Though I haven't put any miles on this setup I have every confidence that it will put the 93 GSXR 750 my son rides to shame handling wise.

For my setup I spent:
$49 for the springs
$85 for the Gold Valves
Installation done by myself.....
$100 for the Fox SRS Link
$125 for the Fox Shock.......

I shop Ebay pretty hard too.....otherwise I would have spent alot more.
 

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I would love to why my '93 looks like a "low rider" even without me sitting on it!! Looks like the rear should be an inch or two higher! Must be the crappy shock! I have to get my Fox rebuilt!
 

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I would love to why my '93 looks like a "low rider" even without me sitting on it!! Looks like the rear should be an inch or two higher! Must be the crappy shock! I have to get my Fox rebuilt!
For sure.....most likely the spring is waaay light overall too. BUT, ain't it nice to have a rebuildable shock. You can just spec the changes you need and not waste too much $$$ in the long run. Check that the front forks are set correctly in the triple clamps as well. You can have them set waay out so that the rise on the front is more like super motard than sportbike
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, correct me if I'm wrong. Replace front springs, Replace rear spring, replace/rebuild rear shock...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would toss the shock in favor of a Fox or Ohlins..... and change the fork springs.
So is the price list that you posted above still in the range I'd be spending, providing I do the work myself?
 

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I've seen Fox Shocks on Ebay for that price as well as Race Tech Fork springs for $39 a set..... you just have to keep a good eye on Ebay for them.

For reference you can use the following Fox shocks on your GSXR.... they have the same travel and are 12-1/2" center to center and use the same mounting configuration (eye on top and Clevis on bottom)..... always verify center to center dimensions with the seller as well (optimum length is 12" to 12-1/2"). Also note that for optimum performance you may have to have it revalved too or if you want the cannister mounted in the OEM location a new hose may be required...... about $125 for a re-valve and $25 for the hose.....

89-98 GSXR 1100
88-95 GSXR 750
Kawasaki ZX-9R
Kawasaki ZX-7 (no ride height adjustment available)
Yamaha YZF600
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've seen Fox Shocks on Ebay for that price as well as Race Tech Fork springs for $39 a set..... you just have to keep a good eye on Ebay for them.

For reference you can use the following Fox shocks on your GSXR.... they have the same travel and are 12-1/2" center to center and use the same mounting configuration (eye on top and Clevis on bottom)..... always verify center to center dimensions with the seller as well (optimum length is 12" to 12-1/2"). Also note that for optimum performance you may have to have it revalved too or if you want the cannister mounted in the OEM location a new hose may be required...... about $125 for a re-valve and $25 for the hose.....

89-98 GSXR 1100
88-95 GSXR 750
Kawasaki ZX-9R
Kawasaki ZX-7 (no ride height adjustment available)
Yamaha YZF600
Wow, thanks for the info, I'm gonna have to print this thread and add it to my manual, Mods may want to add it to the WC FAQ, good info from people who took the time to find out and test their setups. Again, thanks!
 

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As with any mod, once you do it, any related parts that are NOT in decent shape will immediately show their nasty faces. For example, once you put something decent under your ass in the form of a proper shock/spring combo, PLUS put in decent weight fork springs, you will find that:

....any crap bearings etc. on the shock mount areas will start to really show their rattle around, but worse:

...putting in a pair of good front springs will show you just how shite your forks may be. Since dick all has been done to these forks (right?) then ensure that you install new seals AND bushings. With that in mind, realise that the weight of oil you are/were running could be muy wrong for your weight. You sholdn't be running anything lower than about 5wt, considering the weight and forks of your beastie. That said, unless you weigh over 200 pounds, 10wt might well be way over the mark. Aim at 7.5wt,and use a top quality brand.

Once this is done, have an experienced wrench set the front and rear sag for you while you are there to watch and mentally record. Also, without YOUR arse on the bike, setting sag will only be a guess.

It can be a bit of a pain to set up, but be warned that once done properly, you will then wonder why the fuck people throw shitloads on their motor without doing the chassis. You will rock the ass of someone with skillls the same as yours , just because your bike can take full advantage of the chassis and drivetrain that Suzuki threw all of the money at back when they built the bike. The diff is unbelievable....UNbelieveable!! So think about it long and hard. Good luck
 

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Lots of good advice in this thread!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It just gets better and better
I call over a buddy, and have my wife with the measuring tape...setting sag... Well, either Suzuki had NO plans for a 210 lb'r on thier bikes, or my springs are very worn. Ended up with one line left on the front pre-load before I chickend out on cranking it down anymore, and the rear that I previously mentioned looked to be cranked way down took a lot more cranking to get it right. I guess spending some money is in the future
I hate spending money
Though the thought of getting the bike up to modern standards with less than a total of 2K into it is pretty appealing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh well, not to post whore or anything, but I figured I may as well post a pic of the bike in question




Those with sharp eyes will notice the various fasteners missing, upper fairing stay is now on, as are the mirrors and turn signals...the rash is on both sides and lets others know I mean business (was on her when I got her
) Regardless, this is what I am trying to get into shape...
 
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