[BlueTurd2.0]

Good afternoon!

When starting my bike it seems to stay in what I think is dealer mode for 5+ mins or until I start riding it. I am not sure what the issue is it starts and runs perfectly fine though. The picture attached is what the dash shows even while running. Any advice on how to fix the issue would be awesome.

 

[dpapavas]

I can't see an attached picture. What exactly do you see on the dash? Does it say something like -C00 where the coolant temperature is and then, 5 min later, with no obvious reason, it switches back to showing the temperature as usual?

 

[BlueTurd2.0]

It did that, but the cluster was super dim (battery was dead) then today after charging it this is what happens now. https://youtu.be/HyH2gwO3kE0

 

[BillV]

There are two power supply lines to the cluster. The R/Bl is always hot while the R is switched. There's also a B/W ground, though the indicator lights suggest that it's OK. Make sure that both supplies are OK, good connections, etc. If they are, there's probably something wrong with the cluster.

 

[MonkeyRider]

Fuse blown?

 

[dpapavas]

Apart from what Bill said, do you have reason to believe that the battery is ok? Have you measured the battery voltage with the ignition on? Does the bike crank and start even though the dash is doing that?

 

[BlueTurd2.0]

The bike cranks and starts just like normal and runs great, I haven't had time to check anything yet but hopefully in the next couple of days I'll check battery and the connections for the cluster.

 

[BlueTurd2.0]

So I believe I found the issue but I am an idiot when it comes to electrical work, is this fixable or am I fucked? https://youtu.be/X5nMz-RP67g

 

[gsxdan]

The fried connector looks fixable although you will probably need to source a new connector and maybe even re-pin the ends. If you aren't comfortable doing the work yourself I would recommend finding a local auto electrician(or motorcycle shop$$$) and show them some detailed photos

 

[BillV]

Replace both connector bodies and all the pins. Eastern Beaver and Corsa Technic sell kits for that. It's not that hard but get somebody involved if you can't make good crimps or have difficulty removing the existing pins without damaging the wires. However if you're going that far, you might consider switching to a sealed connector like Suzuki did in later years. It will be different than original but should put an end to the corrosion problem. See the Corsa HM-16P & HM-16S. It's not that important but you can study wiring harness pics on ebay to try to use the same wire locations as Suzuki did on the sealed connector.