The STPS tells the ECM the position of the secondary throttle valves. A bad STPS would do one of two things. First, the ECM can detect most conditions and will trigger an FI warning with code C29. A rare condition that it can't detect will cause a C28 code for the STVA. Paired with this, the STVA will open half way and then close at a slow speed, and then chatter against the closed stop.
Hey, so I checked the STPS and it's out of spec. Here's the readings ...
1.06ohms with the secondary throttle plates fully closed
4.96ohms with the secondary throttle plates fully open
In the manual it states they should read 0.5ohms fully closed and 3.9ohms fully open
When I adjust the stps by hand conter-clockwise to the furthest point, it reads...
1.18ohms fully closed and 4.92ohms fully open. (Weird) I cant even move the stps far enough to get to 0.5 ohms but when I move the stps clockwise to the furthest point it reads..0.46ohms with the plates closed and 4.39ohms with the plates opened.
Am I doing something wrong here? I'm thinking the throttle bodies need to be synced.
You're missing a "k". The correct values are 500 Ω and 3900 Ω.
I'm not familiar with the details of your bike but the fast idle system may be preventing you from reaching 500 ohms. Check the left side of the throttle body, specifically a cam on the throttle shaft and associated linkage. You may have to disable it.
I'm interested to learn what is most owners city street cruising rpm? I try to keep mine under 5k. I don't think the GS becomes the GSXR until 8k+ after which in gears 2+ hyperspace is entered. Below which in normal traffic the GSXR is just a sexy looking race bike.
I need some help with my gixser 600. it has 20000 miles on it. But for some reason from past few weeks I noticed few things which are
1. Fuel light is on always - Even when the tank is full.
2. When the bike is on neutral. The neutral light will not glow.
3. On the display it does not show...
Is a minute, tiny film of fork oil OK, or must the forks be bone dry? With the recent discovery that its simply dirt and not blown seals in the vast majority of leaking seals that a $5 tool can easily fix.
So the original issue upon start up/prime up started about a month ago. When I would prime the bike it would make a weird almost electrical humming/computing sound from around the airbox. Since I have my rectifier in the airbox I figured that's what it was and it was probably making noise about...