most people break it apart, but a few have been able to remove it intact!
Stock air box removal
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From what I've seen on my bike the only way to get it out without destroying it is to remove a whole lot of motor parts if no the whole motor.
so just break the SOB and get new filters that dont require the air box then?
Don't do it on the short stroke motors. It makes carb tuning a nightmare, in my experience. Live with the hassle, you'll get quick at pulling the carbs, with practice. Troy341
ok Well the air box is gone I had to cut it because even though I took the carbs off it still would not come out because this little nipple piece at the bottom was getting hung up so yeah I cut it !!!!
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at any rate why would it make carb tuning a nightmare? would mine be a "short" stroke motor? '89 GSXR 750
Far as I know the '89 only got a new rear shock to help with ground clearance issues, and still retained the short stroke '88 motor. Lookey here..........
http://www.gixxer.com/ubbthreads/showfla...;o=&fpart=1
http://www.gixxer.com/ubbthreads/showfla...;o=&fpart=1
Yup. '89 is the other short stroke motor, yup higher ride height too. The airbox really made a difference to the tuning for me. Like being able to get the fueling right and not. See one of my earlier posts. Hopefully you'll have better luck! Troy341
Well what about K&N replacements ? they going to make it run totally different as far as fuel mixture, I know on some carbed cycles that you have to keep the float bowls at the same pressure as the "static" air in the air box but the carbs had breather tubes that were vented to the air box and did not have a drain to prevent flooding. BUT on my bike it didnt have any kind of "breather" tube and that would be the only issue that I could see having without the stock air box. Is there something else I should be aware of?
The deal is that the airbox is a big "reservoir" for all four carbs to share. When the engine is running, the pressure inside the airbox will be lower than atmospheric pressure, and CV carbs function based on fluctuations/differential of pressure from the head-side to the airbox/filter side. That's the short version of the explanation.
The airbox also creates a resonant pulse frequency at certain RPM's and this is also beneficial to the way that each cylinder breathes and contributes to complete cylinder-filling at certain RPM's... on a properly-designed airbox, those specific RPM's complement the way that the cams work.
Additionally...
not that it matters on US models anyway since Suzuki put a blank "0" jet in the bottom of the float-bowls on the US models... but the "slingshot" circuit will not function without the airbox in-place.
You could probly make a set of 36mm or 34mm CV carbs work a lot better than the 38's on a stock 750 with no airbox.
I've seen full exhaust-systems fitted to stock motors with stock carbs/jetting and the stock airbox and they still run OK like that...
but removing the airbox will require re-jetting of the carbs even with the stock exhaust and stock cams/internals in the motor.
The airbox also creates a resonant pulse frequency at certain RPM's and this is also beneficial to the way that each cylinder breathes and contributes to complete cylinder-filling at certain RPM's... on a properly-designed airbox, those specific RPM's complement the way that the cams work.
Additionally...
not that it matters on US models anyway since Suzuki put a blank "0" jet in the bottom of the float-bowls on the US models... but the "slingshot" circuit will not function without the airbox in-place.
You could probly make a set of 36mm or 34mm CV carbs work a lot better than the 38's on a stock 750 with no airbox.
I've seen full exhaust-systems fitted to stock motors with stock carbs/jetting and the stock airbox and they still run OK like that...
but removing the airbox will require re-jetting of the carbs even with the stock exhaust and stock cams/internals in the motor.
Your explanation leads me to believe that if the airbox is removed, the carbs are going to need rejetting in order to perform similar or better than when they had the benefit of the airbox, regardless of the addition of a full exhaust system or not? Also, when the airbox is removed and the carbs are appropriately jetted, is there any difference between using two filters or four? And finally, are there any drawbacks to removing the airbox that cannot be compensated by correct jetting?FastCat said:
The deal is that the airbox is a big "reservoir" for all four carbs to share. When the engine is running, the pressure inside the airbox will be lower than atmospheric pressure, and CV carbs function based on fluctuations/differential of pressure from the head-side to the airbox/filter side. That's the short version of the explanation.
The airbox also creates a resonant pulse frequency at certain RPM's and this is also beneficial to the way that each cylinder breathes and contributes to complete cylinder-filling at certain RPM's... on a properly-designed airbox, those specific RPM's complement the way that the cams work.
Additionally...
not that it matters on US models anyway since Suzuki put a blank "0" jet in the bottom of the float-bowls on the US models... but the "slingshot" circuit will not function without the airbox in-place.
You could probly make a set of 36mm or 34mm CV carbs work a lot better than the 38's on a stock 750 with no airbox.
I've seen full exhaust-systems fitted to stock motors with stock carbs/jetting and the stock airbox and they still run OK like that...
but removing the airbox will require re-jetting of the carbs even with the stock exhaust and stock cams/internals in the motor.
I have seen this debated before, but I was unable to ascertain direct answers to the above questions.
Thanks in advance for your reply.
P.S. I am curious about this for my '89 1100.
Everything Fastcat said is correct, more so on the 750's.Unless your going to run flatslides leave the airbox on. By the way, to remove the airbox on any oil cooled GSXR all you have to do after the carbs are off is remove the alternator.
Well a little late for that info but thanks, I dont think it will make that big of a hassle I will just adjust the carbs if needed and that will be the end of it. No bulky air box to worry about
You will need to rejet the carbs. Factory brand or dynojet. You should be able to make it run right with the jet kit, but I have yet to be able to. Troy341
The Mikuni RS "flatslides" *are* "smoothbore" type carbs... the stock carbs are NOT what people mean when they talk about "flatslide" carbs - The OEM carbs are CV carbs, even though technically-speaking, the slides are flat.
yes i know the stock ones are CV "constant velocity" BUT I didnt know that Mikuni flatsides where the same as smoothbore thanks for the info now with the flatsides would that resolve the issue with the air box?? or should I just just re jet the stock carbs ?
Cheapest by hundreds would be to jet the stockers. Extra ponies come with the flatslides. Don't know all the ins and outs, I haven't gotten mine yet. Troy341
I'm running CV's on mine - so of course, I'm biased.Donnie Darko said:
yes i know the stock ones are CV "constant velocity" BUT I didnt know that Mikuni flatsides where the same as smoothbore thanks for the info now with the flatsides would that resolve the issue with the air box?? or should I just just re jet the stock carbs ?
Having said that, I think you'd end up with the same mid-range/low-end problems with Mikuni RS36's as you'd have with the stock carbs and a jet-kit with no airbox. ...If you fitted some 33mm "flatslide" or "smoothbores" then that might work out better... It doesn't matter what type of carbs you fit really - you're limited by the airflow demands/characteristics of the cams/valve-sizes/piston diameter and stroke of the motor - 38mm carbs with no airbox will be a driveability/tuning-disaster on a stock 750 motor. Period.
That's my opinion FWIW.
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