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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello good sirs. I am in need of expert advice once again. This issue literally started over night. It was not gradual at all. One day it was fine, the next day; I took my bike out and could no longer pull the clutch lever with one finger. I had to grab it with my entire hand and pull it all the way in to release gears for shifting. Clutch did not seem to be slipping at all. Still shifted fine up and down as long as I pulled the lever all the way in. Pulled strong in all gears. I was diagnosing this when I found a mouse nest built on top of my engine. I removed the clutch cable and it seemed frozen stiff. I couldn't pull it back and forth manually. I thought that was all it was and ordered a new one while I worked on repairing chewed up stator wires. New clutch cable came in, installed..same problem. It seems the issue is down at the lower clutch arm..pictured below. I cannot depress it manually by hand at all. I have to butt a piece of wood against it and press extremely hard to get it to move inward. I tried the clutch adjustment in the manual with the clutch adjusting screw to no avail. Any ideas?
576648
 

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Your on the right track. Checked cable, you could have lubed it and got it moving again, but cables are cheap.
Next Sprocket cover off and check actuation lever is moving freely, again disassemble clean and lube. Is left-hand side pushrod clean and not bent and moving freely ?
Now, clutch cover off and disassemble clutch. ( have new clutch cover gasket ready) Something is stopping free movement.
Number Mark each group of pieces of clutch as (before) it comes off. ie. Nut, washers. Clutch plates, spacers. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man! That gives me a place to start! I was afraid opening up the clutch would be next. I've never done that before, but the nearest generic motorcycle shop to me is about 50 miles away and it would probably be sitting there for a month before they looked at it. If I wanted to take it to an actual dealer, it would be more like a 150 miles. I live in an awesome place for riding...all rolling hills and curves; but horrible for repairs..lol.
 

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Download and review the clutch mod instructions. It's not necessary to remove the basket as is done there but it has good pics and tips. This would be a good time to change the spring washer.
 

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Leave the bike on the side stand if your taking off the clutch cover. Don’t put it on a paddock stand. You’ll lose a little bit of oil on the side stand but a lot on the paddock stand. Clutch removal isn’t hard just make sure you order everything so it can go back EXACTLY the same. Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So far..sprocket cover off. Found hella grease and more mouse nest. LH push rod comes out easily, but I cannot manually depress it. Should I be able to? Off to mother in law's 50th b-day party..will clean it up when I get back and see if that makes a difference. If not..on to the clutch. Thanks for the advice. With bike on side stand, do I still need to drain oil first?
 

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Mice like to chew on wiring and other plastic things, which can be a PITA. It sounds like he left the clutch cable alone. Suggest that you look for ways to keep him away from the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Doesn't look like I'm going to get off easy with this one. Cleaned everything on the sprocket side. The lever actuates fine until I put it in against the push rod. Then extremely stiff again. What I'm wondering is if this is a normal symptom of clutch going out? I haven't had any slippage or missed gears or anything when riding. Just the lever got hard as hell to pull...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just wanted to follow up and let y'all know what I found after digging into it in case anyone find this thread in the future. Took clutch apart. Fibers and plates slightly worn. No significant bluing. Fibers and plates moved freely in the basket. No hangups. No visible damage or wear on basket or clutch hub. I had new fiber, plate and spring kit; so decided to use it anyways. Original plates all measured at 2.26mm including the outermost plate. New plates measured at 2.28mm. Used the same size outermost plates since that was what was in it before. Put back together. Clutch lever still a mother to pull in..maybe even harder with the new springs. Engaged a lot earlier..like in the first 1/3 of lever release. Also disengaged later. 1 finger clutch wheelies not possible because the lever would hit my other knuckles before it would release. Took apart again. Put old springs back in because they were a bit softer. Also used the 2.0 mm outer plate to see what difference that would make. Clutch now engages a bit later...about in the later 2/3 of lever release. Still won't disengage early enough for 1 finger clutch wheelies. Hits my knuckles before complete release. Also still seems more stiff to pull than it was before I ever had this problem, but sure beats me what could be causing it. Cable, push rods, fibers and plates all move very freely until I tighten down the springs. Also not sure why it disengages so late still. It is not a matter of lever adjustment. I have virtually no slack at all in the lever so that is starts pulling the clutch cable as soon as pull it the tiniest bit. I'm done tripping over it. Going to ride how it is...maybe it will auto-magically fix itself in the same way it became a problem to begin with...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No problem! I did not go that far, because it seemed to operate pretty smoothly when I took the sprocket cover off. Although..It may be a different story when it has all that torque on it against the push rod. The next time I get some down time, I'll take a look and post back if I find anything. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

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Studying the K5 manual, I can't find where this release shaft is disassembled. In the parts Fisch it looks like the push rod cap, item #29 is what retains the shaft. It does seam like you may damage the seal item # 41 and maybe seal item #39, When you pull this apart.
You could test it, with the cover off, by pushing the pushrod hard by hand into the push rod cap and then moving the release arm, feeling for rough bearings.
It does seam unlikely to be your problem. The lower bearing would have to be seized to the shaft to cause this ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cool..thanks! Yah, when I had the sprocket cover off, the top bearing and seal seemed like they were pressed in there pretty hard. I tried pulling up on the clutch camshaft #28 by hand, to see if I could pop them out that way, but it wouldn't budge. I was afraid I would damage it, if I used a vice or something. Maybe one of these days, I'll order the seal and bearing a head of time and then give it a go. I was able to rotate the camshaft by hand though, and I didn't feel any grinding; so it probably is an unlikely culprit.
 
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