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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for reading my post

long time stalker first post here

i purchased a 2002 750 project
so i now have completed all the repairs but cannot get to the bottom of this charging issue

i was never told of a charging issue was told the battery had died due to old age and long standing

so i purchased a brand new one
out for a ride 2 hr pull up and battery flat no restating engine (luckily i pulled up at home)
slowly charged the battery full

test one
stator three wires A,B,C
A-B 60v @5k revs
B-C 60v @5k revs
C-A 60v @5k revs
rectifier steady 14.4v

plug melted at stater so hard wired that
perfect i thought

out for a ride 1.5 hr battery flat
home and recharge again

test two
replacement stater and rectifier

out for a ride
2hr pulled up all ok
off again getting dark so lights on 1hr arrived home Battery flat

test three
stator three wires A,B,C
A-B 10v @5k revs
B-C 60v @5k revs
C-A 60v @5k revs
rectifier steady 12v

replaced with original and tested same results as first time
out today 1 hr pulled up checked battery 12.7v when turned off
perfect full battery

continued home with lights on to test once home battery flat

done some tests with ammeter
stater and rectifier same as test one
7.2w ignition on bike not running
50w ignition on and dipped beam front bulb is 50w
100w ignition on dipped and high beam
36w with no lights coolant fan running

all these are fine normal draw

i need to find something either over drawing or the stator isnt supplying enough current

where would you go next???


please help

thank you
 

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Have you done a battery leakdown test?
With everything turned off, there should be less than 3mA drain on the battery.
With a cold engine at 5k RPM, and the stator disconnected from the regulator, you should see more than 65 volts AC on each pair. 60 is close, but a little low.
On the one test that had 10V, that would be a failed stator...
There are several tests to be done on the regulator, did you do the full test, or just check the output voltage?
When you replaced the parts, did you use OEM, or aftermarket?
Many of the Chinese aftermarket parts are made to incorrect specs and do NOT work properly!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes I tested the drain with it off I also tested the regulator in accordance with the service manual

The replacement was a cheap one yes but 1hour ?

Can any one recommend a good quality one without a mortgage attached

Thanks again
 

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I have used the Rick's brand with success. They are reasonably priced in my opinion.
I tried 3 different 'cheap' options, and every one tested bad right out of the box. And after paying restocking fees, I would have been better off getting the Ricks one to start with!
 

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Very odd. If you are getting a steady 14.5 + volts with the bike running, you should be fine.
What voltage do you have at the battery with the bike running and the hi-beams on?
Might be worth checking the battery ground connection at the frame. I have seen corrosion there cause weird electrical issues too.
 

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How did you measure the stator output if it was hardwired? Should we assume that the replacement parts now have proper connectors? As tsonksen says, if you're getting >14V at the battery, it should be charging, but make sure that you measure: a) with the bike fully warmed up (as you may have some heat-related issue, b) with the lights/high beam on, c) at 5000rpm.

If the 14.4V figure was at 5000rpm, what is the voltage at idle?

(PS: you really shouldn't have to go to the trouble of riding the bike to test the charging system, except perhaps to warm it up. If you do, try riding with the seat unbolted and monitoring the charging voltage at regular intervals. If you see it drop, head back home to prevent draining the battery and being stranded.)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i Snipped the wire to test and resoldered

Replacement was hard wired too

Test with everything turned on still showed 14.5

Replaced rectifier with genuine
All good and fixed

I think rectifier decayed with heat and time (per ride) and ok when cool
 

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Why didn't you use the connectors for the replacement parts? Note that the connections between the R/R, the stator and the rest of the system are very critical. High currents pass through there and the slightest resistance, resulting from an inadequate connection, will drop enough voltage to cause problems. Do you get 14.5V at the battery at higher engine speeds also, or does the voltage drop as you rev the engine? Also do you still get 14.5V once the bike has been warmed up?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Connector at stator was melted and connectors have more resistance than solder

As stated it’s fine now but the old app me tested fine too
 

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Incorrect about connectors having more resistance. If they are damaged, or corroded they can drop more voltage, but there is an obvious, visible condition.
A poor or cold solder joint will cause more resistance for sure, an can fail or become intermittent without obvious visible signs.
But that being said, I recently dealt with poor knockoff stators, and 2 of the 3 came without the connectors.
As long as you are comfortable and confident in your soldering abilities!
Good to hear that it is running again!
 

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+1 to the above. I didn't read the previous comment properly and failed to notice that it's working properly now. That's good, but again, if you haven't already, make sure the voltage stays above 14V as the engine speed rises. I suspect (in general, not in your case) that a bad connection between the R/R and the stator can drop voltage at higher engine speeds only, when there are higher currents circulating between the two parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Incorrect about connectors having more resistance. If they are damaged, or corroded they can drop more voltage, but there is an obvious, visible condition.
A poor or cold solder joint will cause more resistance for sure, an can fail or become intermittent without obvious visible signs.
But that being said, I recently dealt with poor knockoff stators, and 2 of the 3 came without the connectors.
As long as you are comfortable and confident in your soldering abilities!
Good to hear that it is running again!
your serious? lol your contradictory post is amusing
 

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Not sure what I was contradicting?
I would suggest you go with the proper connectors rather than a solder job.
But if you trust your soldering skills and so forth, it's your ride and you will be the one to deal with it.
??
Just adding my input, but ultimately it is your decision.
I've seen some pretty scary repair jobs that seemed to be working just fine (at first anyway).
Had one come through that actually had the stator and RR hardwired by twisting them together and wrapped with masking tape.
He couldn't figure out why it was sometimes failing.
:geek:
But whatever! A running bike is a happy one!!
 
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tsonksen
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