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I guess a simple yes or no will do....Does an 02 600 stator work with an 02 1000? Thanks fellas!
 

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Its no better made, just a different set up. Like saying the rear shock on the 1k is better than a 600......its not, its just set up different (valving and spring rate).
 

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Actually the 600 showa rear shock is considerably better than the Kayaba on the 1000.
 

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Better to who......you , me or Joe Shmoe. Like saying Honda is better than Yamaha.

Put the 600 shock on the 1k and you will have valving issues.
 

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Its no better made, just a different set up. Like saying the rear shock on the 1k is better than a 600......its not, its just set up different (valving and spring rate).
dude... why don't you stick to talking about shit you know something about.

Have you ever examined the construction of the 1K stators in comparison to 600/750s? Have you dealt with constant stator problems caused by the poor construction of the 600s & 750s on multiple bikes?


Take a 600/750 stator... the insulative coating on the coil windings is thin, inconsistent, uneven, and even missing from areas on brand new in the box units. The output wires are bound by zip-ties which promote spot-overheating at the points where they're located. These zip-ties also inevitably become brittle and either break or melt given enough time.

In contrast, the 1K stators have a healthy, liberal, well-made even coating of insulation. The output wires are bound in a manner that doesn't rely on zip-ties, and avoids overheating of the wiring.

I hear about new people having stator problems on 600s & 750s at least once a week, but have yet to ever have someone with a 1K come in with the same problems. And every time I look at a 600/750 stator... guess what I find? It's scorched at one or more points where the zip-ties secure the wiring.


So YES - THE 1K'S MUCH BETTER CONSTRUCTED.
 

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word
 

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it's always charging, sheriff. the stator puts out increasing amounts of voltage as rpms increase. the r/r dumps excessive voltage (by radiating heat). If you had alot of accessories, it's possible you could be in an overall state of discharge at very low rpm. but in most cases, you're always charging.

as a side note - tests of stator output voltage are standardized as per the suzuki manual at 5,000 rpm.
 

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Sounds like you know your stuff LeanAngle. I have a questions for you and dont mean to hijack the thread but it relates to the stator and starter motor. My bike has not been started since Saturday. Started it today and the starter motor was very strong. I went for a ride and stopped twice. each time I started the bike back up my starter sounded weaker and weaker. I replace my stator last year and was wondering if with a new battery like I have, could my starter be drawind power from my battery making it weaker? Thanks!
 

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craig... the starter probably doesn't have anything to do with it, but you can't completely rule it out. It's the last thing I'd consider though. sometimes as starters go bad, they act up moreso when hot. but I'd leave that possibility 'till last.

If you've already replaced a stator - there's a good possibility that the conditions that led to it going out in the first place still exist, and may have helped this one going bad as well. that's one possibility. or it may have just taken a shit 'cuz it's a POS.

you say you have a new battery - that could also be a problem, or part of it. if they filled & prepped it at the dealership, more than likely, they did it wrong. alot of times they just fill it up, immediately cap it off, and never even bother to charge it. that's the absolute worst way to begin a batteries life. when I buy my batteries - I refuse to let them prep them. If they insist, I tell them to fill it up and leave the cap off... then I bring it home, let it gas properly, then seal it up and tricke-charge it before use.

the only thing you can do is start testing the system to isolate the problem... don't just start replacing shit. If you have a service manual it will lead you through all the tests... start by measuring charging voltage across the battery while running at 5K... if it's not good, continue with the tests from there (but start testing the stator before the regulator, because if a component has gone bad, 99 times out of 100, it will be the stator on these bikes). don't rely on just the resistance test. the ac voltage output test tells you much more.

If you have aced another stator, do this before you install it... carefully clip all those zip ties & remove them. I went through 3 or 4 stators in the course of 2 years - went through my entire electrical system over and over and over, I was going absolutely mad. On my last stator, I removed the zip-ties, and low & behold... no more problems.

I could type forever - but get a service manual, a good multimeter, & you'll be good to go.
 

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Good info. On the new battery I did exactly what you stated with trickle charge. I think its the starter as my battery is fine after the bike sits for a while. My mechanic thinks its the starter too drawing too much power. Maybe because its hot.
 

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Hmm.. my stator just spoilt a few days ago. Check the rectifier and battery still fine, which mean confirmed the stator. I'm going to ask the shop to clip off the zip ties on the new stator as stated by LeanAngle which I will fixed at my local shop tomorrow.. Hopefully it will last way much longer..

But I'm worried, surely there is a reason why Suzuki put those zip ties?

Btw, I'm riding a GSXR600 K1 model.
 

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But I'm worried, surely there is a reason why Suzuki put those zip ties?
They put them on there to secure the output wires so they don't rattle vibrate, or potentially ground out. The only thing is... they're stiff as hell, and the way they're routed and constructed, they're not going anywhere. The zip-ties are superfluous... they do nothing to help, and often alot to hurt.

I'll admit I don't have a statistically meaningful number of stators that I've cut the zip ties on to draw experience from. But I can tell you, on two bikes I'm intimately familiar with ('00 750 & '01 750) cutting the zip-ties absolutely solved recurring stator problems that both these bikes had suffered from for quite some time. And both of these bikes now have plenty of miles to prove the stators are lasting. Both of these bikes are also road-raced, ridden on the track, and street driven. I can also tell you that PLENTY of people have had unexplained stator failures on these bikes, and when they (or I) examine the stators, the failure is ALWAYS characterized by scorching at the location of one or more zip ties. Always.

I wouldn't open up a bike that had never had stator problems and start clipping zip ties. But if I had one go out, and I had tested the rest of the electrical system and found no other reason that could have led to it's failure, I'd DEFINITELY do it on the replacement.

BTW - This is ONLY for '00-03 750s and '01-'03 600s. The 1000 stators don't use zip ties. And I haven't examined '04-'05 600s/750s nor heard of any problems from them yet.
 
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