What attached pic? There are some basic continuity checks that ought to sort out if the stator or its wiring are OK. You'll have to keep playing with the connector. Some small screwdrivers or pics may help. Find some pictures of the connector halves as they ought to help you figure out how they separate. They're not that great but there are some wiring harness routing drawings in the Servicing Information chapter of service manual.
Stator harness in 2006 GSX-R 600
The charging system of my GSX-R does not work any longer and I am trying to figure out what is the problem.
I have not yet been able to disconnect the stator harness from the RR harness, which would allow me to run some tests. When I press the connector tab, the tab has very little room to go, because the tab is already close to the body of the connector. So the connector does not release. Any suggestions on how to disconnect?
The second issue is that stator harness is smashed at the location shown in the attached photo. It looks like the harness got compressed between the coolant hose and the cylinder head. I wonder if this could be the reason why the charging system does not work any longer. An aftermarket RR was installed a few years ago on my bike and the stator harness may have been re-routed at that time. What is the route of the stator harness in the bike as delivered by Suzuki? Does the harness run outboard of the coolant hose? if so, what prevents the hose from touching the cylinder?
Thanks
I have not yet been able to disconnect the stator harness from the RR harness, which would allow me to run some tests. When I press the connector tab, the tab has very little room to go, because the tab is already close to the body of the connector. So the connector does not release. Any suggestions on how to disconnect?
The second issue is that stator harness is smashed at the location shown in the attached photo. It looks like the harness got compressed between the coolant hose and the cylinder head. I wonder if this could be the reason why the charging system does not work any longer. An aftermarket RR was installed a few years ago on my bike and the stator harness may have been re-routed at that time. What is the route of the stator harness in the bike as delivered by Suzuki? Does the harness run outboard of the coolant hose? if so, what prevents the hose from touching the cylinder?
Thanks
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Attached is the photo I was referring to in my original post. Sorry for the confusion!
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Thanks, BillV. I have posted the picture.What attached pic? There are some basic continuity checks that ought to sort out if the stator or its wiring are OK. You'll have to keep playing with the connector. Some small screwdrivers or pics may help. Find some pictures of the connector halves as they ought to help you figure out how they separate. They're not that great but there are some wiring harness routing drawings in the Servicing Information chapter of service manual.
Pressing the connector tab and then pulling the two halves of the connector apart, while keeping the tab pressed, should cause the connector to release. The issue, in my opinion, is that aging and exposure to heat have resulted in changes to the connector and now it does not release any more. I will keep working on it. I was just wondering if others have experienced the same difficulties and what they did to open the connector.
The harness routing drawings in the service manual do not address specifically the relative position of the stator harness and the coolant hose located in the same area. It would be nice to know what Suzuki did at the factory.
I only have the K6 750 manual, which shows the R/R in a different position, in front of the frame instead of alongside it. Any chance that yours has been moved or is it a case of 600 & 750 being different? The smash doesn't look like much but I don't understand why it happened at all, i.e. I don't see anything that might contact it. What gives?
I had the same problem, solved with a scalpel by trimming a little off the locking tab.The issue, in my opinion, is that aging and exposure to heat have resulted in changes to the connector and now it does not release any more.
Truth be told, the tab is probably not necessary. The tab connectors grip pretty well by themselves, and when in a group, it's even better.
When the aftermarket RR was installed a few years ago, it was mounted using a purpose built bracket on the side of the engine to improve cooling (it appears that the RR gets too hot in the original position).I only have the K6 750 manual, which shows the R/R in a different position, in front of the frame instead of alongside it. Any chance that yours has been moved or is it a case of 600 & 750 being different? The smash doesn't look like much but I don't understand why it happened at all, i.e. I don't see anything that might contact it. What gives?
When I took the posted picture, my finger (visible on the right side of the picture) was holding the hose off the harness. The hose otherwise applies pressure on the harness and keeps the harness well in touch with the cylinder. My plan, when I re-assemble everything, is to find a way of keeping both the harness and the hose away from the cylinder.
The smash is worse than it looks in the picture. It is difficult for me to say if the smash is causing the charging problem.
Thanks for your input. I also tend to agree on your comment on the locking tab probably being not necessary.I had the same problem, solved with a scalpel by trimming a little off the locking tab.
Truth be told, the tab is probably not necessary. The tab connectors grip pretty well by themselves, and when in a group, it's even better.
I don't see any reason that the generator leads can't be routed on the outside of the hose, particularly since those to the R/R are on that side. Given all that, you might want to check if the hose rubs against the engine as you don't want that to rub through the hose. It might be possible to loosen the hose at the radiator and/or water pump and twist it so as to minimize any abrasion.
An ohmmeter ought to tell a lot but it might be possible to inspect the leads inside the sheath by unplugging the leads, removing the contacts/leads at the connector, and sliding the sheath off of the leads.
An ohmmeter ought to tell a lot but it might be possible to inspect the leads inside the sheath by unplugging the leads, removing the contacts/leads at the connector, and sliding the sheath off of the leads.
Thanks. I will try to twist that hose to improve the hose routing per your recommendation.I don't see any reason that the generator leads can't be routed on the outside of the hose, particularly since those to the R/R are on that side. Given all that, you might want to check if the hose rubs against the engine as you don't want that to rub through the hose. It might be possible to loosen the hose at the radiator and/or water pump and twist it so as to minimize any abrasion.
An ohmmeter ought to tell a lot but it might be possible to inspect the leads inside the sheath by unplugging the leads, removing the contacts/leads at the connector, and sliding the sheath off of the leads.
I eventually had to use a Dremel tool to disconnect my frozen connector. Testing showed that stator is fine and the RR has failed.
I have an additional question for you and/or other members: why there is no alternator light in the GSX-R instruments? If you know that the charging system has failed, you still have about 30 minutes of battery life to ride to a place where you can ride to get help. Much better than getting stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Fair point. I'd like a small voltmeter that reads to .01 volts. It would indicate if the battery was running down. Also any pulsing would indicate that something was going on. Unfortunately every voltmeter that I know about is physically large and/or only measures to .1 volts. This looks attractive and the price is right. But it needs a case.
Interesting. Even if a permanent installation may not be practical on GSX-Rs, monitoring trends periodically could help.
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