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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All.

I am in the process of selling my beloved k5 1000 and replacing her with a k6/7 GSX-R 600 (looks like k5 1000 so I'm assuming I'm correct with k6/7 part).

Is there anything in particular to look out for when viewing this bike? The owner has mentioned its in good condition besides an oil leak at the sump and reckons a gasket will be the fix. Price is right and I believe this is probably a good race bike to start out on.

Any and all advise and what to look out for, feel, hear etc will be appreciated, greatly!
 

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I raced a K6 600 for a while.

First, make sure the bike is mechanically sound. Fix any leaks, change the oil/filter/coolant, and safety wire anything that holds fluid or that you wouldn't want coming off.

Second, invest in a brand new stator, reg/rec, reg/rec relocation kit, and battery right off the bat. It will save you a ton of headaches later on down the road.

These bikes need to be raised to handle well at speed, so you will need a shim at the rear shock and fork extenders at the least. I had an Öhlins TTX rear shock set anywhere from 323-328mm eye to eye depending on the track, and an Öhlins 30mm cartridge kit up front, with the Öhlins fork extenders, and I would run anywhere from 2-5 lines showing on them, again, depending on the track.

Get good case covers for both sides. I like the Woodcraft ones.

Get a good 520 chain, with a host of different sprocket sizes and a bunch of master links.

Clean the calipers and pistons, and then get good race pads (Vesrah S-RJL are what I used), good braided brake lines (I ran both Galfer and Speigler, both worked well), and bleed them really well with high quality DOT4 fluid. I like Castrol GT-LMA fluid.

Vortex rearsets are key, as well as good clipons, be they Vortex, Driven, or Woodcraft.

For bodywork, get Armour Bodies. They crash well, and are easily repairable with basic fiberglass knowledge.

As I think of more I will add to it, but in the meantime, here is a link to my K6 600 race bike build: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/33-general-bike-talk/294975-my-race-bike-build-warning-long.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi @Anthony D

Thanks for your reply. I was hoping you would :) ...

First question in reply to your comments. To safety wire does one need specific bolts with holes in the head to thread the wire through?

RR - yes I had that headache already with the k5 so I know what you talking about and will definitely look at doing that. As for the battery I will hookup my Optimate 3 first before I replace it and let it do all it's tests and conditioning before I replace the battery.

The Ohlins may be out of reach for now, will depend what's going for sale on the 2nd hand market otherwise I will use our local suspension guru to rebuild the stock shock and forks. I appreciate the advise and when I can will probably upgrade to Ohlins. I will keep in mind raising the bike and inform the suspension guy.

The bike has R&G engine covers already. Not sure how good these are? Why do they need to be replaced?

I haven't physically looked at bike yet but will check what chain and sprockets it has. Our local race track which more than likely will be my only playground in the beginning has the 1000cc bikes running -1/+2. Would I look at doing that gearing with a 600? I have heard of -2/+1 for a better ratio.

Bike has standard calipers and discs. Not sure about master cylinder but it does have braided hoses. I will go with your recommendation on pads and bleed the system with what I'm used to which is Motul RBF660 brake fluid.

The bike has rearsets but I don't know which make is installed.

Bike has race fairings already that need a little patching up and a respray so I will look into that.

The bike has some aftermarket pipe which I don't recognise. It's also got a Power Commander 5 and Autotuner installed.

I read your write up, wish I had the budget to do things properly like that! Amazing! Thanks for the advise, and if you have anything further to add after my reply that would be awesome.
 

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Hi @Anthony D

Thanks for your reply. I was hoping you would :) ...

First question in reply to your comments. To safety wire does one need specific bolts with holes in the head to thread the wire through?

RR - yes I had that headache already with the k5 so I know what you talking about and will definitely look at doing that. As for the battery I will hookup my Optimate 3 first before I replace it and let it do all it's tests and conditioning before I replace the battery.

The Ohlins may be out of reach for now, will depend what's going for sale on the 2nd hand market otherwise I will use our local suspension guru to rebuild the stock shock and forks. I appreciate the advise and when I can will probably upgrade to Ohlins. I will keep in mind raising the bike and inform the suspension guy.

The bike has R&G engine covers already. Not sure how good these are? Why do they need to be replaced?

I haven't physically looked at bike yet but will check what chain and sprockets it has. Our local race track which more than likely will be my only playground in the beginning has the 1000cc bikes running -1/+2. Would I look at doing that gearing with a 600? I have heard of -2/+1 for a better ratio.

Bike has standard calipers and discs. Not sure about master cylinder but it does have braided hoses. I will go with your recommendation on pads and bleed the system with what I'm used to which is Motul RBF660 brake fluid.

The bike has rearsets but I don't know which make is installed.

Bike has race fairings already that need a little patching up and a respray so I will look into that.

The bike has some aftermarket pipe which I don't recognise. It's also got a Power Commander 5 and Autotuner installed.

I read your write up, wish I had the budget to do things properly like that! Amazing! Thanks for the advise, and if you have anything further to add after my reply that would be awesome.
To safety wire, you just drill small holes through the bolts. Or, you can buy pre-drilled bolts from ProBolt.

Everything else seems good to go. The best advice I can give to a new racer is to not worry about HP. Brakes, suspension, and tires mean more at the amateur level than HP.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I would have loved to keep the k5 1000 but it's honestly too powerful for me around the race track, I would rather ring a 600's neck than tip toe around the track with a monster. I loved this k5 1000 so much but it seems to be going to a good home.

One more question that I can think of now @Anthony D is the 600's can take a 180 width standard tyre, and be increased to 190 but I have read that it does not increase the width of the tyre but increases the height of the back slightly, so with you saying raise the rear would this be recommended? Or is it better to stick to 180 rear?

Oh and one more thing, there is also a 750 option but that's more expensive. I've ridden a 600 and 750 previously and found them both terribly slow on a highway (this because I'm used to a 1000 I suppose). Is there any major reason to really consider the 750 over the 600? Personally I feel swayed towards the 600 due to price and the ability to kit myself out better with a bit of spare cash for a rainy day.
 

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It all depends on what classes you want to race. The 600 can race against 600s, 750s, and 1000s. The 750 can only race against other 750s and 1000s... See what I mean?

And tire size is going to be determined by which race tire you choose. Dunlop makes a 190/60 that works on a 5.5" rim, whereas Pirelli makes a 180/55 that works on a 5.5." rim.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay thanks guys for the info. Now to get the guys selling the bikes to show them off. One guy with a ZX10 (2010) very keen although I am wary of spending a lot of my budget on just the bike. Then the 600 gixxer is a mission to see it seems. Once I check it out hopefully I will go for it. Think that's all my questions for now.
 
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