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Discussion Starter #1
A common issue with our K5 600/750 is the starter switch burning out, causing our headlights to not turn on, and sometimes causing the bike to not start. What happens is the switch gets hot, and the copper pieces in the switch melt into the plastic housing, ultimately causing a loss of connection. It's relatively easy to fix, depending on how bad yours has melted.

If you are having this problem, try this fix before ordering a new switch. It may save you some $$$.

What you need:
short philips screwdriver
wire snips
small flat blade screwdriver
micro flat blade screwdriver (eyeglass kits work great)
utility knife
grease (optional, but recommended)






Locate and remove the two philips head screws on the bottom side of the switch housing. Once removed, pull apart the housing. Be careful as to not lose the piece that will fall out.







You should now be able to push the switch down and get at the inside.






Remove the philips screw holding the switch cover in place.






Put the cover aside so you don't lose it.






Clip the zip tie around the wires. Be careful to not cut the wires.
Remove the philips screw that holds the switch in place.






Put the bottom housing and screw aside.





Now your switch is accessible.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Using a small flat blade screw driver, carefully separate the white piece from the black piece.







Now your switch is out.






Press your switch in and out to make sure it is moving freely and not getting stuck.







Inspect your terminals on the black piece that is still attached to the bike. Make sure they aren't missing, melted, or pressed into the plastic too far.






Remove the spring from the switch by using a flat blade screw driver and gently pushing it into the spring. Be sure to not lose the spring, or stretch it out.






Wiggle the switch internals out.






Inspect the plastic around the copper piece. Check to see if the copper has been melted into the plastic. You can see in my picture where the plastic had been melted and the copper was once stuck to it.






The copper should sit above the plastic like shown. Under the copper is a small spring. Push on the copper and make sure it moves up and down freely and doesn't get stuck.

 

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Would come out of the closet - if I could find a s
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Discussion Starter #3
To remove the copper piece, insert a micro flat blade screwdriver into each side of the copper piece. There are tine tabs in there that need to be pushed to pull the piece out. It can be a pain in the ass to do, but it can be done. Dont lose the spring.






I didnt tke my copper piece out because I fixed this a while ago. Once you have it out you can start carefully cutting away the melted plastic with a utility knife so that the copper moves freely like it should. When you put the copper piece back in, dont forget about the spring. Try using a little bit of grease on the edges to help it move better. You dont need a lot, a very light coat will do. Too much grease may cause a bad connection.



Once you have it moving freely, put everything back together in the reverse order you took it apart. Once you have the switch back in the housing and ready to screw back into your clip-ons, ensure the plastic piece that fell out in the first step is installed correctly. The tab needs to be to the outside of the housing as shown. The raised nipple will fit into a hole in the clip-on. Make sure it gets in that hole, or the housing will rotate back and forth on the clip-on.






you may have to fight with the wires going into the housing to get it back together. Be sure you dont pinch them. When you are done and the switch works properly again, remember to zip tie the wires back in place where you snipped it before.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice write up Crush.
It's a common issue that easy to fix. I was stranded for a while because of this. Lights went out, then the bike wouldnt start. by the time I got it started it was dark and I had to hold the switch in a certain spot to getthe lights to stay on. it sucked.
 

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should definitally be a sticky.
 

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Great writeup..didn't know it was a common problem. I picked up another switch from my friend's shop for $10 when mine started screwing up. I pulled it apart several times and fixed it, but I could never get a good connection and it was always temporary. Every week or so it would screw up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great writeup..didn't know it was a common problem. I picked up another switch from my friend's shop for $10 when mine started screwing up. I pulled it apart several times and fixed it, but I could never get a good connection and it was always temporary. Every week or so it would screw up again.
I bent the tabs on the copper piece up just a touch so it would for sure make a good connection.
 

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Everyone can definitely benefit from that tutorial.
My switch is fubar.
Ill see if I can take some pictures and put a step-by-step of replacing the whole assembly.
 

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Cheers for the write up mate, You just saved me a call out fee for a auto leky. Mines been doing this for the past few month, I've been able to get the lights to stay on until recently now they wont come on at all.

Pulled the whole front faring off tonight without success but now im sure I'll be able to fix it.

Cheers again.
 

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i followed this write up and my switch was fine with no melted shit, i check my fuses, bulbs, all good. but no low beam! high is working fine. anyone have any ideas? also i have aftermarket HID's with ballasts that i have had on there since i bought the bike a year ago..
 

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:bangheadwell after jerking around all night last night and this morning, im officially a dumbass and didnt notice the power wire for my ballast wasnt pluged in. so after putting it back everthing works like majic.:banghead
 

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Awesome write up, im gonna go try this right now as when i started the bike yesterday the lights went out upon start up. Gonna see if this is the fix. Thanks.
 
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