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eh'hole
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody upraded their rear brake line to stainless steel? Ive heard that its pretty stupid to do it as it'll make it super easy to lock up your tire. Personally, I use the rear brake every now and then and it usually gives a spongy feeling which has me wondering if its even working at all, and no, I bled them a few times already and Im positive theres no air trapped.
 

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SS lines really help brake fading, as for locking the front wheel, I would not worry about it. Anything that can help stopping can prevent accidents on the street. I personally have Galfer front lines on, and I have yet to lock the front wheel.
 

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eh'hole
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
spidaman78_gsxr said:
SS lines really help brake fading, as for locking the front wheel, I would not worry about it. Anything that can help stopping can prevent accidents on the street. I personally have Galfer front lines on, and I have yet to lock the front wheel.
Im not talking about the front, Im talking about the rear.
 

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Bearded Viking Admin...
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Booenson said:
it usually gives a spongy feeling which has me wondering if its even working at all, and no, I bled them a few times already and Im positive theres no air trapped.
How old is the fluid? If it's the original fluid from '01, it's no wonder the feel is spongy. Just bleeding isn't enough. Personally I wouldn't bother with an SS line on the rear unless it needed changing anyway
 

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eh'hole
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
SVS said:
How old is the fluid? If it's the original fluid from '01, it's no wonder the feel is spongy. Just bleeding isn't enough. Personally I wouldn't bother with an SS line on the rear unless it needed changing anyway
I bled it beginning of this year with some Motul 5.1. Seasons pretty much done with now, I should upgrade to some HH pads and see if they'll do the trick. I should change out the line anyways, manual recommends brake lines be changed every 4 years.
 

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I did all three on the old bike. you won't really notice any difference since you're not putting the same force into the rear brake. there's A LOT more pressure in the front lines and the braided SS keeps them from expanding. the rear will lock up far before the line would ever build up that kind of pressure.
 

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the only way you're gonna lock up your rear is if you are stomping on that bitch. I traded all 3 out for SS lines and the only difference is probably that I won't have to worry about expansion in the summer/winter.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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Booenson said:
I bled it beginning of this year with some Motul 5.1. Seasons pretty much done with now, I should upgrade to some HH pads and see if they'll do the trick. I should change out the line anyways, manual recommends brake lines be changed every 4 years.


Skip the HH pads out back. Too much friction and too easy to lock up the back end. Just stick with regular organic based pads on the rear, it's be easier to module without accidentally locking up. HH pads are fine up front.
 

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SPL170db said:
Skip the HH pads out back. Too much friction and too easy to lock up the back end. Just stick with regular organic based pads on the rear, it's be easier to module without accidentally locking up. HH pads are fine up front.
I agree with this. I just replaced all my brakes. Put EBC HH on the front and EBC Organic on the rear - even with lots of saddle time, you don't have very good feel with your foot so you don't want a HH back there.

Depending on what you are doing with the front brake it can be really really easy to lock up the rear. If you are hard on the front then just a touch to the rear and it can lock up.
 

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Bearded Viking Admin...
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iluvdagxr said:
the only way you're gonna lock up your rear is if you are stomping on that bitch.
Wrong. Try braking hard with the front, then get on the rear. Braking unloads the rear wheel because the weight bias is transferred to the front - and when the rear is unloaded, it's pretty damn easy to lock it up
 

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+1. Simple physics (in which I stuggled to get a C- in college!!) and experience will show any rider this. Rear is only providing 30% of your total braking power. One of the tricks that was taught to me was to trail brake just before hitting the front -- and this was mentioned here recently too in a racing context, which I'll admit to knowing nothing about since I prefer to sport tour. Bottom line on stainless lines is that they prevent expansion and if you've got weathered rubber lines, anything is better than what you've got.
SVS said:
Personally I wouldn't bother with an SS line on the rear unless it needed changing anyway
But they look so nice... :biggrin I put braided stainless all the way around on my HD and I've got them on the front of my 1100. I immediately noticed the differences on the front of my HD and honestly noticed LITTLE difference on the back (but it's a lead sled anyway). That said, I'd like to do the back of my 1100 w/ matching braided stainless (just for uniformity) and doubt I'm going to notice much of a difference there either despite the bike being lighter than my Softail. Experimenting w/ braking has told me where the rear locks up w/ panic front braking because of weight transfer due to diving -- stainless rear line isn't going to change that much.
 

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No to HH rears, get some cheapy organics.

Yes to stainless rear line if you feel the rear brake is too powerful just adjust the lever down some. In order to lock it you will have to pretty much break your ankle with it adjusted down.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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Don't forget to get upright some and transfer a little more weight to the back tire under heavy breaking. Notice how the pro's pop up from under the screen and sit more upright under hard breaking
 

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eh'hole
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
SPL170db said:
Don't forget to get upright some and transfer a little more weight to the back tire under heavy breaking. Notice how the pro's pop up from under the screen and sit more upright under hard breaking
I thought they did it because the wind resistance made them slow down faster ;)

Alright, I'll stick to a rubber line in the rear, it doesnt seem like its that huge of a benefit for going SS in the rear. I should replace the hose anyways, its 5 years old and manual calls for replacement every 4.
 
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