nope, the brass air idle mixture screw sticking up right there, I hope that was before the cleaning
SRAD 600 firing on two cyclinders Hellllpp!!
Hi guys my names Richy been biking for around 3 years have bought an SRAD 600 x reg (carbed) with the intention of saving it from the dreaded scrappy and was doing a good job until recently.
Before I bought the bike it had been sitting for 6 years so far I’ve replaced stator, battery, reg rectifier, sus bushes and bearings, swing arm, refurbed brakes, carb clean, TPS sensor, ECU, fork seals and various little bits. I actually got it through it’s mot as well without slipping the guy a few bucks.
but now she has decided to only fire on two cylinders 1 + 3 are not working. I have tried new ecu + TPS and change the plugs I have even tried switching the coils around but no luck.
Any advice guys I feel like my wages are going down the drain. My backgroud is working on compressors and used to work on cars as a Panel bearer so know how to work a multi meter etc.
Richy
Before I bought the bike it had been sitting for 6 years so far I’ve replaced stator, battery, reg rectifier, sus bushes and bearings, swing arm, refurbed brakes, carb clean, TPS sensor, ECU, fork seals and various little bits. I actually got it through it’s mot as well without slipping the guy a few bucks.
but now she has decided to only fire on two cylinders 1 + 3 are not working. I have tried new ecu + TPS and change the plugs I have even tried switching the coils around but no luck.
Any advice guys I feel like my wages are going down the drain. My backgroud is working on compressors and used to work on cars as a Panel bearer so know how to work a multi meter etc.
Richy
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Yea that was before cleaning.nope, the brass air idle mixture screw sticking up right there, I hope that was before the cleaning
Hi did you ever get this sorted ? As I’m having same issue but have no experience with carbs thanks
Unfortunately not I think it’s the head gasket in the middles of changing the gasket will post results once done bud.Hi did you ever get this sorted ? As I’m having same issue but have no experience with carbs thanks
Oh right did you do a compression check ? Iv just bought a compression tool so I can check at weekend see what it bring then I was going to take it from there
cheers
cheers
Yea there was no compression there in number 3.
Ah ok fingers crossed you get it sorted. Soon as I get time I’m going start investigating into mine iv been told the carbs need cleaning/rebuild and sync I’m pretty savvy with things but never done any carb work at all and this is my first big bike.
It’s pretty easy bud I’ve done mine about 6 times trying to solve this issue but turned out it was the gasket.
👍 I just didn’t want start messing with them and make things worse. I’m trying to look through some of the old threads on carbs. I’m going get a carb rebuild kit anyway but I just don’t have a clue on where all the o rings etc... go I’m still trying to work that bit out.
If you get stuck bud give me a shout on this thread.
👍 I just didn’t want start messing with them and make things worse. I’m trying to look through some of the old threads on carbs. I’m going get a carb rebuild kit anyway but I just don’t have a clue on where all the o rings etc... go I’m still trying to work that bit out.
go to ronayers microfiche, shows everything pretty much, with that and the service manual you can do this, dip em in yamalube carb dip, follow their instructions..
when you order a rebuild kit try to find the ones that have titanium fuel stop needles the rubber tips do not last at all..
make sure you strip carbs completely, the larger emulsion jet is not removable,,, blow out all passageways real good, dip and blow a few times..
take your time, you can order jets individually if your kit does not come with all jets so forth.. I found a good 4 carb kit for a real good price, under $80.. worth it, take your time with adjusting floats.. be sure all o-rings are there, again ronayers to see where everything is, be sure its all good, no tears in diaphragms..
there are videos and we can help if ya get stuck on anything, you might wanna take video and pics if its your first time so you have something to fall back on for re-assembly?
ah right ok i will have a look into that thanks. Iv been looking into carb kits seen a few on eBay but some of them say there based on us spec but I wouldn’t of thought they would of had different carbs for different markets I know that the model years have differences.
not sure what the EU difference would be VS the US? if ya have time take a carb apart and see exactly what size jets you need so forth then compare with said kit, pretty sure they are the same, some settings may be different due to emissions or maybe emission type stuff, internals should be the same?
take one apart, see what ya need, you may find you can clean the jets if a kit doesn't come with new ones, run some string or yarn through the hole with polishing compound and holding carefully in a vice run the yarn and compound back and forth to polish the inside of the jet hole, clean it up, the important one IMHO is that small diameter emulsion style jet the longer one..
emulsion holes are so tiny they clog, best to get new ones of those but I am sure with ingenuity a guy could clean them some how under a magnifying glass and watch makers tools?
you could just order gaskets and o-rings then clean everything if you are up against it or don't have the funds? yamalube is good stuff some guys use simple green, dish soap n white vinegar and some heat? compressed air and rubber cone tip is the important part, you need to blow em out make sure they are flowing how they should and that one or more carbs isn't restricted in a passage way, it will never run well if that's the case..
also your sync procedure is real important too, some guys can bench sync them to get em close, I bought the dial style sync tool and it worked very well, be sure to calibrate first..
take one apart, see what ya need, you may find you can clean the jets if a kit doesn't come with new ones, run some string or yarn through the hole with polishing compound and holding carefully in a vice run the yarn and compound back and forth to polish the inside of the jet hole, clean it up, the important one IMHO is that small diameter emulsion style jet the longer one..
emulsion holes are so tiny they clog, best to get new ones of those but I am sure with ingenuity a guy could clean them some how under a magnifying glass and watch makers tools?
you could just order gaskets and o-rings then clean everything if you are up against it or don't have the funds? yamalube is good stuff some guys use simple green, dish soap n white vinegar and some heat? compressed air and rubber cone tip is the important part, you need to blow em out make sure they are flowing how they should and that one or more carbs isn't restricted in a passage way, it will never run well if that's the case..
also your sync procedure is real important too, some guys can bench sync them to get em close, I bought the dial style sync tool and it worked very well, be sure to calibrate first..
Yeah I will take the carb apart and check to see which parts I need but I’m tempted to buy a basic kit for now as I can get them in uk and just try and give the jets etc... a real good clean and then purchase one of those 4 dial gauges sync tool iv seen them on eBay.
Just had a quick look at my carbs not taken them off yet but i moved the piston slider thing with my fingers to see if they were free. So say your day on the bike looking forward carb 1 and 2 fuel comes out of the needle when I move the float up is this normal ? Plus which my petcock under the tank is pouring fuel out when engine is not so I know that needs to be replaced. Thanks for all help so far much appreciated
Carl
Carl
go back through em, petcock rebuilds are everywhere, easy fix.... dip em make sure its all flowing well, when you move the slide up with a screwdriver from the intake opening on a dry carb you should hear a hissing sorta sounds from the air being pushed through passage ways should indicate a sealed diaphragm and clear circuit..
also make sure your choke circuits n plungers are clean free and sealed.. as it the plungers move freely and CLOSE fully and create a good seal.. blow it out well, dip and blow, maybe invite spankygsxr over to do the dip and blow bit, always better to let a pro do that sorta stuff, sure he is cheap enough... we should change his nic to sanchez. all the dippin and blowin he's done I am positive his lips are perma brown... affordable all the same, real plinger...
also make sure your choke circuits n plungers are clean free and sealed.. as it the plungers move freely and CLOSE fully and create a good seal.. blow it out well, dip and blow, maybe invite spankygsxr over to do the dip and blow bit, always better to let a pro do that sorta stuff, sure he is cheap enough... we should change his nic to sanchez. all the dippin and blowin he's done I am positive his lips are perma brown... affordable all the same, real plinger...
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
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