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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I own an '04 and she is going to turn 20k on the clock here within a week.

I have maintained her well, just mounted my 3rd set of tires. Have a brandnew DID waiting to get put on. Have changed the oil religiously. Every 2.5k to be exact. Valves were checked at 15k and were perfect, have not had to touch them. The air filter has been replaced twice now, along with the plugs. Once at 7.5k and again at 15k. The STP sensor, the one that the volatage should fall between .48 and .52, has never been off. The TPS sensor, the one that you put into dealer mode and center the little line on the dash, has been adjusted a couple of times. Everytime I adjusted it, never noticed a huge difference. Coolant has been flushed and have Engine Ice in her now.

Anyways, at 20k, I plan on replacing the plugs again, checking the valves once more changing the oil and filter again. I am going to flush the brake system completely and want to take her in for a dyno run and get her dialed in.

I know that I want to make sure they check and adjust the syncronization on the throttle bodies, according to the manual, it's pretty much just like the old days with carbs.
I want her dialed in air/fuel mixture adjusted, etc. etc.
Probably should let the shop install the new plugs when they dyno it, no? And might as well have them put in a new filter at that time as well.

So what I am really curious about, is should I have them use the stock filter? Or should I buy a BMC or K&N ?
Also, I have a Ti-Force slip-on on her. The set valve is removed and that system bypassed. No FI light because of it.
No Power Commander, just bone stock really, except that I have one of Jeff's TRE's. (Which I notice absolutely no difference with) Jeff, if you are reading this, is it possible that I got a faulty one?
Should It be dyno'ed with that on or off?

Can the stock system be remapped or do I have to buy a PC III ? I would prefer not to have to go spend the money on one if I don't have to.

I ride hard, but I do alot of commuting. I don't want to start changing things up if it takes from reliability. I want to just jump on her and start her up and go for another 20k not have to worry about getting her dialed in again and again every 5k.
Does this all make sense?

Any suggestions?
Not looking to get maximum power out of her, just want her back to her old self.
 

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Here's what I'd do, given what you already have:

1. Fuck
the shop replacing your plugs and filter - replace them yourself while you install a new PC III USB.

2. If you ride predominantly street like me, stay with the stock filter (I'd replace my filter & plugs every 12 months).

3. Get that puppy custom mapped to get the most performance and rideability from the slip-on.

4. Ensure that your battery charge is optimum - for maximum ignition performance.
 

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"I would prefer not to have to go spend the money on one if I don't have to."

Why do the valves again after only 5K?
That's a waste of money.
If ain't broke, don't fix it.

If you're NOT gonna do any motor work just keep on maintaining her the way you are.
You should get another 20K no problem.

I had my '01 for a year & half.
I put nearly 40k on that bike w/o a hiccup.
Just did what you are doing. (synth oil, plugs, filters, etc)
When I sold that bike the new owner was gonna do motor work & track it.

I asked him to call me when he had the motor apart becasue I wanted to know how the valves where.
They were still dead on after alll those miles.

p.s. I'm pushing 12k on my '04 since August.
This thing still scares me every time I twist the throttle...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, First, I have heard and think I remember one shop in particular that the mechanic, who used to tune for Schwantz way back in the day, said let him change the plugs, that way he's dialing in the bike and can check the plugs to see how it's burning.

Second, why do you say get the PC III ? Is it truely nessecary? Remember, not looking for maximum performance, reliability is more important to me.

Third, yes, I ride predominantly street. I have replaced my filter twice, going on three times in one year. (Same for the plugs) How can you only replace yours once every 12 months?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I hear ya on the valves spike, might just say screw it, it's only been 5k miles since I checked 'em and they were dead on then.

But she is definately not up to par, I remember when I first got her, I would twist that throttle and think to myself, "Holy SHIT ! Does this thing ever stop?" I don't think that anymore, and it is not because I am used to her. I have been riding everything there is to ride for 20+ years, she's just tired. She needs some serious attitude adjustments.
 

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Okay, First, I have heard and think I remember one shop in particular that the mechanic, who used to tune for Schwantz way back in the day, said let him change the plugs, that way he's dialing in the bike and can check the plugs to see how it's burning.

Second, why do you say get the PC III ? Is it truely nessecary? Remember, not looking for maximum performance, reliability is more important to me.

Third, yes, I ride predominantly street. I have replaced my filter twice, going on three times in one year. (Same for the plugs) How can you only replace yours once every 12 months?
1. If you trust your dealer mechanic, then go for it. If he chooses to tune an engine by reading the plugs, that's fine but that's sort of old school (see #2).

2. I didn't say you needed a PC, just suggested it may be a good investment for tuning. I too am in no rush to do just any mod to my bike which would reduce its reliability, but after long consideration, I believe there are some benefits to using the PC, even on a stock motor with a modded exhaust. I believe that investing to properly tune the fuel mixture pays dividends in a smoother, more reliably running motor (all other things cared for, of course).

3. Air filter and plugs replacement is spelled out clearly in the service manual. Complying with the manual, I check the filter periodically, blow out w/ compressed air if necessary or replace if damaged. After that, I replace the filter element after 12 months - just like the book says.


BTW: I realize that you're seeking to minimize costs, so I'm not saying you gotta spend money on things like a PC to get a good tune. I'm just saying that's what I would do.
 

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Charge your battery for optimum spark ??? P L E A S E .........
Si.
 

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Charge your battery for optimum spark ??? P L E A S E .........
Si.
Yeah - ok, my bad.... What I was thinking when I wrote that was in reference to the sparking energy initially provided by the battery during startup and initial idling. I had noticed when my bike wasn't used for 2 or more weeks, the capacity of the battery would degrade some 15-20% or so. Cranking and initial idle wasn't optimum. Supporting the battery with a Battery Tender solved that problem.

Sparking performance under normal riding conditions is governed by the ignition circuitry (CPS,ECM, coils, plugs, etc.), which is separate from the charging circuit.

I plead guilty of not being thorough and clear with my comment in this post.
 
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