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HOw does one know when they are in the Adjustment position and when they are in the closed position?

It doesn't make a lot of sense to me in the picture when it tells you to close the EXCV and then tells you to adjust it if the voltage is off but not to adjust it while it is closed and to put it in the Adjustment position.

What does this seeming contradiction mean?


Also, I see adjustments down near the exhaust (2 of them)and I see adjustments up under the seat.(2 of them)

Which ones is it speaking about adjusting?




My Code is _C00 when my bike is started with the FI light on all the time. But it throws a C46 when I put the jumper in. Seems there is a slight loss of power in the upper end but nothing horrible. I also never experiences the herky jerkies.


Edit: I just took the fairings off and tried to get a reading and I get no reading. Why I have no clue but possibly because the meters pins wont rightfully hit anything.
The Motor under the back seat when I applied 12V to it wouldn't stop. It just kept making noise and moving. It never came to a place where it stopped. Now the Motor under the seat makes a bunch of clicking sounds. I cant remember if it did this before or not. But I don't think so. Is that supposed to happen?

I don't know that there is a ton of horrible anything happening when riding it. But I know I don't like that red FI light on all the time.
Typical reason why I don't use forums often.
and your first post is the typical reason why i don't help some people when they ask for it.

you cannot articulate yourself, nor have you looked at the simplest fixes. download your service manual. read it. there is a trouble shooting guide on what _COO means and there is a table about what to do when you get C46.

on this forum, the time lapse between when you ask your question and accurate responses is directly related to how succinct you are with the info, and how many g-d times some other loser is asking how to adjust a TPS and what code _COO means. i am sorry that the 10 of us in the world that actually respond to questions with good advice have not clamored to accommodate you in the 30 hours you wasted.
 

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and your first post is the typical reason why i don't help some people when they ask for it.
Nah, seems you don't answer posts in this thread EVER according to the last 8 pages and 5 years of PROOF!

you cannot articulate yourself, nor have you looked at the simplest fixes.

I cannot articulate myself? REALLY? Come on man. I think people wont answer because I broke the Internet 3 sentence comprehension rule.

Also, Sure I have looked at the simplest fixes which was evidenced by my comment....

//It doesn't make a lot of sense to me in the picture when it tells you to close the EXCV and then tells you to adjust it if the voltage is off but not to adjust it while it is closed and to put it in the Adjustment position.//


download your service manual. read it. there is a trouble shooting guide on what _COO means and there is a table about what to do when you get C46.
Actually, If I knew where to get a service manual I would have it. There is a horrible set of direction on adjusting the Exhaust valve in it and since the OP put those pages in this thread I don't see what that manual would have done for me. I did not ask ANYHTING about the TPS. I only explained that I was also getting that code to be thorough because I have tried posting 2 sentence questions and every time they ask me to be thorough so they can help in forums. Then when I am they accuse me of typing too much! Make up your minds SHESH!

LUCKILY Later on I found a manual put out by Suzuki about this Exhaust valve problem. They must have realized that my question about the ADJUSTMENT position was difficult for many people because in the NEWLY released guide for the exhaust valve problem they include charts on Open position, Closed position and Adjustment position. All three of which were not in the Service Manual hence my question.

on this forum, the time lapse between when you ask your question and accurate responses is directly related to how succinct you are with the info, and how many g-d times some other loser is asking how to adjust a TPS and what code _COO means.

Oh I am totally aware of the fact that no one likes to read on the internet. Which is sort of funny since that's mostly what people do on the internet.

I also think I was pretty succinct with the info given I needed to explain why I needed help with the Adjustment position because I thought I would certainly have gotten an answer along the lines of "Read the OPs post" which doesn't give the answer to that question and was a direct contradiction to the Original Service Manuals pages when he said to "adjust in the open position."

The LOSERS are the ones who need help! Mr or Mrs. Experience don't need help. I think that is the purpose of the forum. You know, lack of experience?


i am sorry that the 10 of us in the world that actually respond to questions with good advice have not clamored to accommodate you in the 30 hours you wasted.
So this forum is doing that bad huh?

I am Thorough. If I had said, " GOT PROB WITH SET VALVE HELP" I would have had someone telling me that I needed to give them more info turning 30 hours into 60.

Since I have posted on this forum before and gotten answers quickly I figured it was the length that was the problem which is why I made a secondary comment and elicited your very quick response.

Funny since in 8 pages before this thread you haven't answered or commented on a single page. Which shows me you are really quick to jump on someone you can attack but slow to answer a friggin question.

So much for the "GOOD" advice.
 

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^ okay its off been running good added the apex fmf slipon and it started running garbly i knew it was the tps so this morning i went and messed with it.

What i found once in dealer mode was _C00 it only came to -C00 when i blipped it even when it was warming up still on the _C00 so i take the tps was out of wack.
My final question on this tps was to everyone that has set it, do you move it while the bike was running? And do you let it fall on the higher side to fall to the middle- if you understand what i just said good/
Or try setting it in the middle to the highest- i tried this way and couldn't get it to not fall back into this "_C00"

One of 2 things:

1.
Anyone care to tell me what they used to do a Permanent on the fly switch to the dealer mode?
I want to make a on the fly switch i think this would be really handy.
Just want to know what type of switch you used and wires how you hooked it up to the white prong or hardwired it?

2.
When i was messing with the tps switch i first tried it with the bike off, seemed not to work meaning couldn't set it right.
So i started it in dealer mode and then manualy moved the switch till it hit the middle middle then top then lockdown.
Seems to sound better? And when i restarted it again it actually comes back to the middle mark, where as if i locked it down to the middle mark in the gauge then it would seem to fall back to the lower point again hence the


Here is a PERFECT example of someone with EASY questions yet because his post is more than the allowed Internet forum 3 sentences NO ONE helped him nor responded!!

I am a NOOB! I can help him!

And if someone else comes in with the same questions I can now refer him to this post or copy and paste it as an answer!



I know its been years but the easy way to answer this post is as follows.....



1. Adjusting the TPS. Make sure the Jumper to Dealer Mode is already jumped before turning the key or switch to the ON position. DO NOT ADJUST WHILE MOTOR IS RUNNING. Once it is in the center take it out of dealer mode or ride it in dealer mode and watch the line move all over the place when rolling and unrolling the throttle. It is normal for the line to move while you are riding. (I said this last part because I assume you will have a switch by this point)



2. To adjust the TPS make sure the engine is NOT RUNNING but the key is ON and the Switch is ON while in Dealer mode. I understand what you mean by a top and bottom of the Mid line position. Try to hit the center of it. That is always best for sure. Then you are two far up to send the line low again and two high to send the line high. It may take a few times adjusting to get it right but it does make a difference.


3. If you want to see if you have a C46 Code you will not see this unless you jump it into dealer mode using jumper wire while the key is already turned on with the switch in the on position(basically HOT jumping it without a switch if you have a wire. If you have a switch then just flip it to dealer mode after the key is ON and the Switch is ON but the Bike is not running). If you jumper the bike to DM and then turn the key you will not know if you have a C46 code as it will not show up. The _C00(TPS) code and the C46(Exhaust) Code cannot possibly both show at the same time because the C46 Code ALSO has a line which could be at the opposite position high or low from the C00 codes. (but you need not worry about this as I did because it has nothing to do with how you adjust your Exhaust valve. So disregard the line on the C46 code)


4. If you want to hardwire a Dealer Mode switch all you need to do is use two wires and an ON/OFF Switch you can get at any Ace hardware or even Home Depot. You need the type of switch which has an on and off position and which stays in the on position.
All you need to do is splice those wires into the two wires on the white wire connector using the same two wires you jump to get it into dealer mode. Hook those two wires up to the switch in any order(doesn't matter as it is just completing a circuit) and you are good to go.



Now that wasn't so hard to answer OR type out even for a Noob like me to help this guy. Though 3 YEARS Late!!

You guys that are here that hate answering Noobs or LOSERS? Experienced people don't need your help!

You guys who don't want to read more than 3 sentences and have to type more than 3 yourself as an answer? who do you think wants to type out one problem at a time and wait over 30 hours each question just so they don't offend the internet 3 sentence rule while they wait days when their bike may be their only mode of travel?
 

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Here is a PERFECT example of someone with EASY questions yet because his post is more than the allowed Internet forum 3 sentences NO ONE helped him nor responded!!

I am a NOOB! I can help him!

And if someone else comes in with the same questions I can now refer him to this post or copy and paste it as an answer!



I know its been years but the easy way to answer this post is as follows.....



1. Adjusting the TPS. Make sure the Jumper to Dealer Mode is already jumped before turning the key or switch to the ON position. DO NOT ADJUST WHILE MOTOR IS RUNNING. Once it is in the center take it out of dealer mode or ride it in dealer mode and watch the line move all over the place when rolling and unrolling the throttle. It is normal for the line to move while you are riding. (I said this last part because I assume you will have a switch by this point)



2. To adjust the TPS make sure the engine is NOT RUNNING but the key is ON and the Switch is ON while in Dealer mode. I understand what you mean by a top and bottom of the Mid line position. Try to hit the center of it. That is always best for sure. Then you are two far up to send the line low again and two high to send the line high. It may take a few times adjusting to get it right but it does make a difference.


3. If you want to see if you have a C46 Code you will not see this unless you jump it into dealer mode using jumper wire while the key is already turned on with the switch in the on position(basically HOT jumping it without a switch if you have a wire. If you have a switch then just flip it to dealer mode after the key is ON and the Switch is ON but the Bike is not running). If you jumper the bike to DM and then turn the key you will not know if you have a C46 code as it will not show up. The _C00(TPS) code and the C46(Exhaust) Code cannot possibly both show at the same time because the C46 Code ALSO has a line which could be at the opposite position high or low from the C00 codes. (but you need not worry about this as I did because it has nothing to do with how you adjust your Exhaust valve. So disregard the line on the C46 code)


4. If you want to hardwire a Dealer Mode switch all you need to do is use two wires and an ON/OFF Switch you can get at any Ace hardware or even Home Depot. You need the type of switch which has an on and off position and which stays in the on position.
All you need to do is splice those wires into the two wires on the white wire connector using the same two wires you jump to get it into dealer mode. Hook those two wires up to the switch in any order(doesn't matter as it is just completing a circuit) and you are good to go.



Now that wasn't so hard to answer OR type out even for a Noob like me to help this guy. Though 3 YEARS Late!!

You guys that are here that hate answering Noobs or LOSERS? Experienced people don't need your help!

You guys who don't want to read more than 3 sentences and have to type more than 3 yourself as an answer? who do you think wants to type out one problem at a time and wait over 30 hours each question just so they don't offend the internet 3 sentence rule while they wait days when their bike may be their only mode of travel?
settle down there, champ. maybe the reason i never replied is that either i hadn't logged on, someone else answered, or the question asked was already asked in a previous post/thread. if you truly looked for info, you would have seen someone post "download your service manual for free at www.servicemanualsgsxr.com." you also would have found the answer to you question with what we technically call "the search function." it is hidden in 4 different places on every page, so i can see how it is hard to find.

spoonfeeding self-entitled assholes gets old quick, so i will not hold your hand through things that have their own thread like "dealer mode" or walk you through the service manual. i am not obligated to help anyone, but the list of PMs in my message box would illustrate that i am happy to do it.

the 06/07 and 08/L0 subforums are full of guys that are asking the same question asked 30 times that week and then don't even follow the instructions given and keep coming back with stupid questions.

search function, loser. it is not up to other members to fix your bike for you nor is it our obligation to sort through your poorly articulated questions that we have answered for dozens of others and are easily findable with a search. sometimes the onus is on you.
 

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settle down there, champ. maybe the reason i never replied is that either i hadn't logged on, someone else answered, or the question asked was already asked in a previous post/thread. if you truly looked for info, you would have seen someone post "download your service manual for free at www.servicemanualsgsxr.com." you also would have found the answer to you question with what we technically call "the search function." it is hidden in 4 different places on every page, so i can see how it is hard to find.

spoonfeeding self-entitled assholes gets old quick, so i will not hold your hand through things that have their own thread like "dealer mode" or walk you through the service manual. i am not obligated to help anyone, but the list of PMs in my message box would illustrate that i am happy to do it.

the 06/07 and 08/L0 subforums are full of guys that are asking the same question asked 30 times that week and then don't even follow the instructions given and keep coming back with stupid questions.

search function, loser. it is not up to other members to fix your bike for you nor is it our obligation to sort through your poorly articulated questions that we have answered for dozens of others and are easily findable with a search. sometimes the onus is on you.
That sure is some solid Logic there. You change someone searching forums for help into you fixing my bike for me for offering up some answers to questions. WOW. They call that the Strawman. And quite frankly I wouldn't have asked the question If I didn't feel I had diligently searched the forum. I also never asked about DEALER MODE and my question was about the Service manuals seeming contradiction to the Original posters manual pages. WHICH Suzuki felt my question was valid because they made a manual that addressed my very question years later after complaints.


I had another post that I should have posted and most of the things you say in this post would become mute. In that post that I should have posted I explain for instance that I did search and read this entire thread. I also explain how I missed the NEW Service Manual Suzuki made which addresses my very "Inarticulate" questions. <--- Seeing as points were missed from the post above the one you answered I figured saying it twice may be better articulated. Or at least not overlooked or ignored.


So good thing I saved it that post in wordpad. Maybe if you read through this post it will show you why my question was VERY valid to me......


I am REALLY curious about what was not articulate about my first post.

I would like an explanation if at all possible.

The fact is, I read on the Original page of this thread that we should adjust in the open position.
Then I read in the Manual(not the new service Manual) that it is a DANGER to adjust unless in the Adjustment position.

In the regular service manual(Pages posted by OP) it does not have pictures of all three positions on the EXCVA. But it does have those pictures in the NEWER released Suzuki EXCVA manual. Which I never saw before I made that post and though they are on this forum, The post made where the new manual is just says "Here is a PDF from Sportbike.com."

I totally overlooked that post and did not read that PDF because I read on an earlier page in this thread that Yamaha had dealt with this problem and Suzuki did not. That caused me to skip the PDF because I thought that it was just a complete version of the service manual which wasn't needed because the OP already included the pages on the EXCVA. Again, I didn't know it was the new manual.


Yes, I am after my two angrier posts trying to understand why someone would say I didn't articulate myself when the fact is with one sentence I would have been asked for more info wasting 60 hours instead of 30(based on Macbayne's time to wait) before I got an answer so I tried to anticipate that info and give it so that anyone who would try to answer the questions wouldn't have to ask me more questions about the problem.

I AM TRULY MIFFED BY FORUMS. They are here for help but people get called noobs or losers for asking for it if someone feels the answers have already been given. Well the answer to my question was given by Suzuki and no one else on this forum ever gave the answer to that question. Some people were able to figure it out. but when I see "DANGER May break EXCVA valve if not adjusted in the Adjustment position" and the pages in the Manual don't tell me what that position is I fear hurting my bike.

Or is the entire post towards me because I posted that secondary response?
I say that because though Macbayne did say I wasn't articulate he also said that it takes a awhile for the 10 people who answer posts to respond.

And Seriously, My apologies for the two posts above, I truly just want to understand why my post was called inarticulate when if I would not have included the two second sentences in the post in my mind I would have gotten an answer that was as old as the Original post instead of an answer that would be indicative of the New manuals info because I didn't know there was a new manual for this cause.

This is not an attempt to troll in any way. I truly need to better understand why when I post political posts on my Facebook account I gain followers and people understand me fine. But on forums I am only accused of things when I show some disgust with no response when the thread goes to the top of the list whenever someone responds."



Edit: But I do see why you answered the last post and didn't respond to my response to your first post which was above the one you did answer. I did follow the instructions and I felt, AS SUZUKI did as well proven by the fact that they put out another service manual specifically addressing the question which you say was inarticulate, that their original service manual didn't correctly explain the procedure. <---third time saying this now.
How's about the arguments cease and if you feel the need to call me asshole or loser or play those witty internet games you and I just chalk it up to we both think each other are assholes and so what of it? Good for you? Its good for me. Do you need it better articulated?
 

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^dude, if you think anyone is going to read all of that shit, you are misguided. read your manual, move on.
 

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^dude, if you think anyone is going to read all of that shit, you are misguided. read your manual, move on.
This isn't a matter of being GUIDED or not. You chose to answer the post where I answered someone's 3 year old post to show it isn't difficult because you were talking all this crap about losers posting questions(the purpose of the forum) Instead of answering my response to you because you know I proved your comments just argumentative. SKIP reality in favor of being a smart aleck some more.

You were clearly just frustration at the fact that I said, " Typical reason why I don't use forums often."

The lack of answers had not one thing to do with articulation and had everything to do with the amount of sentences being over 3.

This thread is FULL of unanswered posts.

Knowing I am right is enough for me. Whether you read it or not is irrelevant.

You are someone who never answered a single thing in this particular thread in 5 years and 8 pages.


I wont post again so go ahead and get your digs in to make yourself look as cool as possible. That was your goal anyway. Call me a troll while your at it. I am sure that's coming too.

LAZY EYES. How pathetic.
 

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Would someone mind putting this whole SET valve and EXCV in lamen terms for me? When i bought my bike the butterfly valve in the exhaust was disconnected and left to be wide open all the time, and they obviously done something with the wires as well near the tail section, Am i missing someting? i think i have the herky jerky :) at low speeds the bike jerkys and i have to feather the clutch, also the bottom of the throttle has a dead spot ive adjusted the cable but its like the bike nose dives when you let off the throttle to come to a stop... any help much appreciated
 

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2007 GSXR (Mods below) - for the jerkiness caused by the TPS - is it possible for it to only show up when the engine is warm like 200+? Or if the TPS needed adjusting, would it be apparent no matter the engine temp ?
 

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wait for the bike to fully warm up before you adjust tps sensor. its been a while, I forgot exactly what I don't to my old k7 600 race bike. I had zero on/off throttle issues. check out my bike thread, I may have put the tweaks in there.
 

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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes. DIY

On the one connect a volt meter (positive on yellow and negative on brown/black) and look at the readings. (that is the 3 wire harness) Make sure it is the back side of the connector, not the side towards the motor, those are different color wires.....see picture
THank you for this writeup, one small thing for anyone reading this. double check your user manual for the pinout, on my bike (australian k8 gsxr750) I had to measure the voltage between Yellow (+) and white (-). I went between yellow and black on my connector and was getting values in the -ve. and my manual clearly said between yellow and white.

Not complaining, this was an awesome help
 

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THank you for this writeup, one small thing for anyone reading this. double check your user manual for the pinout, on my bike (australian k8 gsxr750) I had to measure the voltage between Yellow (+) and white (-). I went between yellow and black on my connector and was getting values in the -ve. and my manual clearly said between yellow and white.

Not complaining, this was an awesome help
You are both talking about different sides of the plugs. You are measuring the same thing. White goes to black/brown on the mating plug. Yellow goes to yellow and black goes to red.
 

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I attempted this tonight and got to reading my closed reading and then my dang voltmeter broke... Haha going to get a new one but the cables are so out of wack the reading I got fully closed was -4.89 volts! No wonder why I get jerky throttle and a big burst of power at 4k when the valve opens. Lol
 

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So what side do we connect the voltmeter to? The side going to the servo motor or the side that goes to the wiring for the bike.
 

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So what side do we connect the voltmeter to? The side going to the servo motor or the side that goes to the wiring for the bike.
Doesn't matter. Whatever is easiest. If you connect to the other side to what the manual states the wiring colors will be different. See my previous post. The reason the voltage you measured was -ve is because you had the multimeter leads ass about.
 

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What does "ass about" mean? I jsut got fed up with it all and ripped the whole servo and cables out lol... i couldnt get it adjusted right and said screw it lol
 

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What does "ass about" mean? I jsut got fed up with it all and ripped the whole servo and cables out lol... i couldnt get it adjusted right and said screw it lol
Ass about = backwards
 
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