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Yeah, that is what I am doing. Even after adjusting the closed voltage it never would adjust below 1.1 volts closed. Just would go to zero. My 750 K6 wouldn't even start. With the SET full open it now starts again after they day it randomly stopped operating 2 months ago. Idles now exactly as it should. No problems anymore.
 

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Hey guys, worked like a charm for my k6. however I used official guide on adjusting EXCV which is the copy of what is above. Now bike starts stable, run smooth and no fuckin FI displayed. Thanx for inspiration. It took me for about 2 hours. Also inserted dealer mode switch to tail capacity.
 

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Had the herky jerky, tried adjusting tps and set cables but still had the issue. Removed the set cables and motor and haven't had a problem since????
 

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I fixed mine by removing the push cable and leave the pull cable the flap is spring loaded so no real nead for push cable and a lot easer to ajust just my 00.02


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I'm looking to buy a 09 gsxr 750, guy is being deployed. It has been sitting for 6 months. When I ride the bike it hesitates around 2k rpm. Many of you are experiencing promblems near 4k rpm range..any help would be appreciated! Pretty decent asking price trying to see how easy it is to fix. I was thinking maybe some kind of tune up/spark plugs but don't know much mechanically about motorcycles
 

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I'm looking to buy a 09 gsxr 750, guy is being deployed. It has been sitting for 6 months. When I ride the bike it hesitates around 2k rpm. Many of you are experiencing promblems near 4k rpm range..any help would be appreciated! Pretty decent asking price trying to see how easy it is to fix. I was thinking maybe some kind of tune up/spark plugs but don't know much mechanically about motorcycles
Well couple of things here:

1. You are looking to buy a K9 and this is the K6/7 forum
2. The herky jerky only effected a few, early K8's
3. Your issue sounds like potential stale/bad gas and/or clogged injectors from sitting for 6 months. Get some fresh gas and maybe run some seafoam or other injector cleaner through the tank. Read instructions and don't dump the whole bottle that treats 17-20 gallons into a 4.5 gallon tank.

Could be a few other things but start there and see.
 

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My k7 gsx r600 throws a code 46 and the throttle is very choppy. My mechanic wants $140 for this job. I have tried the tps adjustment and it does help smooth out the throttle, but I really want to adjust the set valve. The instructions seems overwhelming. I am confuse about the tools I need to accomplish this task such as the 12v battery and how to measure the volts right to "use the mode selector switch to set the drive pulley to the ADJUST position..." (don't know what that refers to).

Any detail step by step would help or a video will do just fine.


Thanks.
 

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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes. DIY

Remove the entire system and pull the wire from the ecu
 

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I disabled the set valve by removing the wire from the ecu and left the valve open. It is smooth but I noticed a loss in low/mid end torque during daily city riding. This is the reason why the set valve adjustment is much needed.
 

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Damn Suzuki for this issue and the r/r. There will be never ending issues with never ending ideas and forums on how to fix it.

This appears to be not a win- win situation. Remove the SET, lose torque. Keep the set and have the FI light go on.

I still have mine and lube it to keep it from doing this. I will continue to do this, but it appears one day I will have to remove it because the little tricks no longer work. That is the day I get headers :)

If you get aftermarket headers, is there still a torque loss?
 

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Damn Suzuki for this issue and the r/r. There will be never ending issues with never ending ideas and forums on how to fix it.

This appears to be not a win- win situation. Remove the SET, lose torque. Keep the set and have the FI light go on.

I still have mine and lube it to keep it from doing this. I will continue to do this, but it appears one day I will have to remove it because the little tricks no longer work. That is the day I get headers :)

If you get aftermarket headers, is there still a torque loss?
Full systems generally cause a loss of low end power, you are trading low end for power up top where it is useful on a racetrack. I really don't think the set makes a whole lot of difference... It's more of a noise thing than anything.
 

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This needs a sticky under the 06/07 600/750. I understand some people just remove it because they enjoy tuning, but some like to keep things simple and stock.
 

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Re: SET Valve, TPS & herky jerky fixes. DIY

Although not experiencing it (maybe 3-4 times in over 2 years) I have been reading about the herky jerky and TPS fix or masking. So I wanted to throw my 2c.
Some people claim if you move it between the middle -C00 and upper position it fixes the herky jerky.
So I tested mine today. (factory setting, never touched it and don't experience the jerkiness)
When I turn on the bike it is on high
When it warms up with correct idle (about 1200rpm) it moves to the middle.
When I ride with dealer mode is the most interesting thing.
When I pull on the gas or cruise it is on high.
When I let go (decelerate) or pull in the clutch it is in the middle.
It never goes to the bottom.......it should never go to the bottom. If it does there is your problem

All in all this makes be believe that the people suggesting to have it in the middle with a tendency to go up are correct, and that must be the correct setting to resolve to abrupt fuel cut off that creates the herky jerky to some.
Also, if many suspect the SDTV as a problem for the herky jerky, why isn't anyone adjusting the STPS? I will post a picture with correct settings as well.
Subject #2
I got the SET valve code (-C46) a few times since dewinterizing it and noticed the valve was not moving all the way.
Although the old trick (loosen the bottom cable 2-3 turns) that I had suggested had worked for a couple years for me and many others, it was time to do it professionally.
Sorry no DYI pictures but I will post what the manual says. In the past some told me that it look very complicated, and I will admit on paper it looks that way, but it is not.

Pretty much there are 2 harnesses coming out from the SET valve motor.
On the one connect a volt meter (positive on yellow and negative on brown/black) and look at the readings. (that is the 3 wire harness) Make sure it is the back side of the connector, not the side towards the motor, those are different color wires.....see picture
Disconnect the other harness (2 wire) and apply 12 volts to it. Take it with 2 wires form the battery. When applying one way the set valve closes completely. (12v+ on the pink wire) then immediately remove the power to the motor and look at the volts from the other harness where you have the volt meter connected. You need to turn the bike on for that, including the kill switch to get the correct reading. If not OK adjust the top cable.
To adjust in open position, just give 12v to the other wire and negative on the pink wire), same procedure but adjust the bottom cable only this time.

Closed should be between 0.5v and 1.3v -----I did mine at 0.95v
Open should be between 3.7v and 4.5v ------ I did mine at 4.1v


You adjust the volts by adjusting the wires next to the motor. The top cable is very sensitive....be patient and careful
Obviously this is the resistance the motor has to sense to stop moving. Mine was at 4.5v open and 1.2v closed, obviously very close to the end of specs so any discrepancy (usually happens when the wires get hot or the exhaust expands....that is why most people see the FI after restarting the bike when hot) would read wrong, the valve would not fully open or close and the FI light would come on.
The results are GREAT, perfect movement and power from the bike.
Yes it will take you 30 minutes + removing the cowl, but like I said no more FI light, smoother throttle response and great performance results.
My guess is that most are not adjusted to perfection form the factory and that is why many see the FI light, or claim that disabling the SET gives the better performance.....it does not in both conditions the valve is fully open (if adjusted right)!

Here are the pages from the manual.....don't be intimidated, it only looks complicated.
Another note, to adjust the wires, give a little opposite 12v power to the motor so it loses the wire, then open or close fully and check again.
When all done and checking the calibration process, mine was showing 1.84 volts when the motor stops so just under half way open before you start the bike.

Edit: The second adjustment was performed today after another 7500 miles. Numbers were close, closed was 0.88V ...I adjusted it to 9.5v and 4.11v for open. After the calibration process the reading now was 1.77volts.





HOw does one know when they are in the Adjustment position and when they are in the closed position?

It doesn't make a lot of sense to me in the picture when it tells you to close the EXCV and then tells you to adjust it if the voltage is off but not to adjust it while it is closed and to put it in the Adjustment position.

What does this seeming contradiction mean?


Also, I see adjustments down near the exhaust (2 of them)and I see adjustments up under the seat.(2 of them)

Which ones is it speaking about adjusting?




My Code is _C00 when my bike is started with the FI light on all the time. But it throws a C46 when I put the jumper in. Seems there is a slight loss of power in the upper end but nothing horrible. I also never experiences the herky jerkies.


Edit: I just took the fairings off and tried to get a reading and I get no reading. Why I have no clue but possibly because the meters pins wont rightfully hit anything.
The Motor under the back seat when I applied 12V to it wouldn't stop. It just kept making noise and moving. It never came to a place where it stopped. Now the Motor under the seat makes a bunch of clicking sounds. I cant remember if it did this before or not. But I don't think so. Is that supposed to happen?

I don't know that there is a ton of horrible anything happening when riding it. But I know I don't like that red FI light on all the time.
 
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