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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

I currently have a 2006 GSX-R600 with 30,400 miles on the odometer.
I bought about two months ago and ran amazing until I tried to show off at a meet and failed a burnout. Instead, I burnt out my clutch. I did the clutch replacement myself and everything checked out for about 100 miles until I parked my bike at a gas station while on the way to the beach with some buddies. When I returned back to my bike and went back on the road, it felt as if my clutch was slipping around 8k RPM. The needle on the speedometer wouldn't move past it either. For the rest of the ride I figured I did my clutch wrong.

That being said I sent it to the shop and he checked everything and said there was no need for a replacement clutch. Either way ($415). I ask him to diagnose what's wrong and he tells me I have a C28 code. I follow all TheGeeks steps and the manual and fix the actuator. A computer shop technician redid the soldering on the actuator. No code for C28, awesome. When fooling around with the actuator, my C29 code came up. Wasn't sure how both could go bad.
Anyways I figured it was because I didn't spring load the sensor or what not and needed to install it while off the actuator. I did the steps and nice no codes!

Now here's my problem.

No codes and it said my adjustment was in center with the C00. It was _C00 before but after some tweaks with the screws that were set to factory setting it went back to -C00.

I went for a ride and got nice response up until 8k-10k but it still felt as if the bike was in limp mode.
I could get it up to 10-12k RPM on 1st gear, then 8-10k on 2nd gear and it gradually would get worst as I got higher in gears. Huge disappointment.

It's also idling really high and backfiring like crazy. Sounds pop corn being made in the microwave.

I opened the airbox up and noticed the butterflies would not open all the way upon turning on the bike. (not starting it)
It would move down a bit and stay that way. I tried touching the sensor with my finger and applied a little pressure or moved it around and it suddenly opened and closed as its supposed to. Note the bike is in dealer mode.

I have a short on youtube I made to better describe what I'm talking about.

I really think it's my sensor that needs to be replaced but want to hear other's opinions before I did so. Let me know, thanks!

@TheGeek
 

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C29 probably because the sensor wasn't properly installed. Usually ruins the sensor. They're pricey. No codes plus loss of top end is usually fuel delivery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
C29 probably because the sensor wasn't properly installed. Usually ruins the sensor. They're pricey. No codes plus loss of top end is usually fuel delivery.
Could it really be the fuel delivery? I mean it was running great until I parked it and whatever happened to the actuator put my bike in limp mode. Coincidentally something within the fuel delivery went bad too?

I did just order a new sensor for $100 and I think it’ll solve my problem.

in regards to fuel delivery what should I look/check for?
why would I have the same problems as c29/c28 if there are no codes?
 

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The engine needs three things.

1) Spark, which you have because it runs.
2) Air, which is why the STVA fault can sometimes cause top end restriction if it's stuck closed or mostly closed.
3) Fuel. Higher demand means more fuel needed. Pretty common for a restriction in the high pressure filter to cause that symptom.
 

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to me it sounds like fueliing, something is off, whether or not its sensor related or simply a leaky something will have to be determined, go over the entire engine top to bottom front to back with ether spray can check for any leaks at all, head gasket, boots, hoses so forth, be sure its air tight, none of those adjuster screws were tampered with on the TB's right? then how about a TB sync?

maybe the C28 fix didn't hold up or it was done wrong why the butterflies are not responding properly, investigate.. isn't there a complete delete for this maybe you can try the delete just to see if it cleans up.. you need to isolate why the air/fuel delivery is off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On one of the service records I received from the previous owner I remember seeing one for adjustment of throttle bodies to sync correctly or something I don’t remember as I don’t have it in front of me but that was a couple thousand miles ago. Could that have gone out of adjustment somehow?

when I disconnect the plug for the STVS the valves/butterflies move as they’re supposed to, open and closed. But when connected they do what’s on the video.

I’m Also when putting things back together the bike won’t idle on its own until it’s at temp otherwise it’ll stall. Didn’t do that before I messed around, maybe there’s an air leak?

Also in the video I press on the sensor and it moves the valves correctly.

regardless I think the air/fuel ratio is separate from the sensor as you said. It’s backfiring like crazy and I’m not sure why. The only other code I get is C46 because the cat was deleted and it straight piped with a shorty gp tip.

Is it possible the bike is still in limp mode from getting the codes previously since im not getting anymore codes? Some type of reset?
 

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The stva is still faulty. Been here and done this. Place paper towels down in the lower throttle body (unless you fully remove it), and get a very small drill bit. Drill out the bolts on the secondary throttle butterfly’s and remove them. Your problem will be solved. Many will say it will make the bike run lean and yes, it will run a little leaner leaner in mid-rpm’s (14.0 - 15.0 afr), and then the stock ecu will drop to 13.3-13.1 around 9k rpms. In all honesty, you’ll probably think your bike is faster as the secondary butterfly’s are only fully open approximately 1,000 rpm. Many people have done this mod with a good working actuator for the gain in power over 8k rpms. You can have your ecu flashed (Moore mafia has a file already for stva deletes) and you’ll be back riding as normal. My k7 750 has had this done with no tune for many years without any issue whatsoever. The bike pulls much harder this way IMO. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You sure it's my actuator? I get no code whatsoever and if I disconnect the STVS, the actuator moves the throttle bodies correctly as it's supposed to. When connected it stutters closed instead of opening and closing like when it's disconnected. If I force them open the C29 code comes up but it corrects itself. Also with no screw adjustments, the -C00 goes to _C00.. so I'm thinking sensor.

With getting the ECU flashed could I do it myself.. or? Do I need it, and if not what's the difference?

Thanks for replying.
@Cole777
 

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You sure it's my actuator? I get no code whatsoever and if I disconnect the STVS, the actuator moves the throttle bodies correctly as it's supposed to. When connected it stutters closed instead of opening and closing like when it's disconnected. If I force them open the C29 code comes up but it corrects itself. Also with no screw adjustments, the -C00 goes to _C00.. so I'm thinking sensor.

With getting the ECU flashed could I do it myself.. or? Do I need it, and if not what's the difference?

Thanks for replying.
@Cole777
I can almost guarantee you it’s faulty. Many feel afraid the bike will be too lean with the secondary’s removed but I can tell you it’s no where near dangerous limits. I was amazed at how much smoother my bike was when I removed the secondary butterfly’s. No more jerky feeling at any rpm or gear, and it feels like I gained 20 plus horsepower as the butterfly’s begin to close well below red line. I 100% would remove them if it was my bike but I completely understand if you wish to try and repair it. Unfortunately, as others stated, replacing the whole throttle body is needed if the board is just too difficult to solder, or if internal relays have failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I can almost guarantee you it’s faulty. Many feel afraid the bike will be too lean with the secondary’s removed but I can tell you it’s no where near dangerous limits. I was amazed at how much smoother my bike was when I removed the secondary butterfly’s. No more jerky feeling at any rpm or gear, and it feels like I gained 20 plus horsepower as the butterfly’s begin to close well below red line. I 100% would remove them if it was my bike but I completely understand if you wish to try and repair it. Unfortunately, as others stated, replacing the whole throttle body is needed if the board is just too difficult to solder, or if internal relays have failed.
How would I go about getting it flashed correctly?
 

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How would I go about getting it flashed correctly?


remove the ECU, mail it in. He’ll flash it same day he receives it and sends it back out immediately. When you pay for the service in his website, there is a description box. Say what year and engine bike you have. List your mods, and state you have the STVA butterfly’s removed and that’s all. They’ll mail it back out same day. There won’t be any engine lights and your bike will be better than it’s ever felt.
 

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remove the ECU, mail it in. He’ll flash it same day he receives it and sends it back out immediately. When you pay for the service in his website, there is a description box. Say what year and engine bike you have. List your mods, and state you have the STVA butterfly’s removed and that’s all. They’ll mail it back out same day. There won’t be any engine lights and your bike will be better than it’s ever felt.
There’s a tutorial in there showing how easy it is to remove ecu if needed.
 

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Do you have the primary and secondary throttle position sensor connectors reversed. STVA has both black connectors, the primary is a grey connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well to conclude this thread, I have officially solved my problem.

Thanks to all who contributed by replying and giving their insight.

@Cole777 As I suspected, it was not the STVA still being faulty, it was the STVS. I replaced the sensor and installed according to the manual and @TheGeek 's instructions on a different post.

Full power back baby. Feels good to be back after a month of this bs.. ride safe!
 
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