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38 Posts
We all know about car diagnostics and learned that things were different on motorbikes.
The bike manufacturers were not forced to use OBD II until 2020. So everyone did something unique.
At least for Suzuki, there are several possibilities to find issues:
SDS and Healtech only support a single manufacturer. Healtech has a single device per Honda, Kawasaki & Suzuki, which are working quite well! But every solution also requires a notebook.
To see which features healtech supports, I can recommend to download the application from their official website and open the included demo-files.
Skipping the very, very expensive tools for workshops, which often are combined with monthly fees to get recent updates to new manufacturers and models, for invaluable reasons...
After searching and comparing several cheap tools, offered by a well known chinese selling portal, I found the JDiag M100. It pretends to support 26 manufacturers, reading livedata, read/reset Diagnostic Trouble Codes, actuator tests and much more.
So I gave it a try for around 120$ without manufacturer dependend plugs (which would have come for additionally almost the same price). In the meantime they released a sucessor, which seems to be the same device with a different look and fancy icons.
It supports updates, which enhanced the manufacturer list to 29 and resolved some issues.
My tests on Kawasaki, Suzuki, KTM, Ducati and Honda....worked.
What does that mean in particular?
The JDiag connects (even if the modell selection might not be exact, "auto search" mostly works) and gives you some data.
Live Data: This shows manufacturer dependent RPM, temperature, speed, etc. There is often more data, which the device does not show. Some entries display wrong values, because "null" or "(currently) not available" is represented by hexadecimal 0xff or integer 255, but JDiag calculates with it. So speed greater then 500km/h is not unusal on idle.
Showing the DTC works okay. On some entires the description is too long and does not scroll, so you have to guess.
Deleting DTC mostly works, for me it failed on the Kawasaki ABS module.
Showing freezed frames (represents the live data from the exact point where a DTC occured) isn´t reliable at all. Sometimes is won´t show data because the DTC was deleted, but the FF data is still there and requestable, sometimes it shows data like "starter switch pressed" but nothing helpful from the remaining 52 values.
Actuator Test was updated a bit on the last release. You can drive the exhaust valve, power up the fuelpump or use a cylinder specific injector. But it does not show the current value, which just would be nice.
In short: It works okay, but not much more. Having several bikes and you´d like to see or delete a DTC, this might be a helpful companion in your garage. Going deep into finding issues with your bike, this won´t give you all the needed information. At least for the manufacturers I have tested.
In the past, there has been the ECU Hacking forum around. Some guys found out how the communication protocol worked for Honda, Kawasaki and Suzuki. So I created a device on my own and found out more and more, how all of this works. Since then I am submitting my ECU data onto my Garmin Virb camera via bluetooth:
This works quite well and I started to find out more and more about the possible functionalities and more manufacturers. For that reason I bought the Healtech and JDiag devices, to see how the communication protocols look like and what I can adapt.
My custom adapter(s):
A very old code can be found for Kawasaki here.
From ~2020 on, there will also be OBD II available on most bikes. Or even earlier, it the manufacturer already planned the bike to be future proof. The plug will look like that:
and you might buy an adapter to OBD2, where you can attach an ELM327 such as an OBDLink.
Can I just create an adapter myself for an older bike and attach a cheap chinese ELM327 clone to make it work? No!
The clones don´t support proper reprogramming! It might be possible to use an original OBDLink with a pre-OBD2 bike. But this will only enable the physical communication. So you still need to have a tool or app which changes header data, translates values and calculates independently from the OBD2 standard.
That´s it for now. If you were interested, I can go more into detail
The bike manufacturers were not forced to use OBD II until 2020. So everyone did something unique.
At least for Suzuki, there are several possibilities to find issues:
- Shortwire the diagnostic plug, to see the error code on the dashboard.
- Use the official SDS (when you are a dealer or were lucky to buy it second hand).
- Buy a multi-manufacturer workshop-tool for several thousand bucks.
- Use a 3rd party tool like Healtech.
- Trust a promising chinese tool, which pretends to support many manufacturers for small money.
- Create an own unique device and program it from scratch, to understand how all of this works, by trial & error (like me)
SDS and Healtech only support a single manufacturer. Healtech has a single device per Honda, Kawasaki & Suzuki, which are working quite well! But every solution also requires a notebook.
To see which features healtech supports, I can recommend to download the application from their official website and open the included demo-files.
Skipping the very, very expensive tools for workshops, which often are combined with monthly fees to get recent updates to new manufacturers and models, for invaluable reasons...
After searching and comparing several cheap tools, offered by a well known chinese selling portal, I found the JDiag M100. It pretends to support 26 manufacturers, reading livedata, read/reset Diagnostic Trouble Codes, actuator tests and much more.
So I gave it a try for around 120$ without manufacturer dependend plugs (which would have come for additionally almost the same price). In the meantime they released a sucessor, which seems to be the same device with a different look and fancy icons.
It supports updates, which enhanced the manufacturer list to 29 and resolved some issues.
My tests on Kawasaki, Suzuki, KTM, Ducati and Honda....worked.
What does that mean in particular?
The JDiag connects (even if the modell selection might not be exact, "auto search" mostly works) and gives you some data.
Live Data: This shows manufacturer dependent RPM, temperature, speed, etc. There is often more data, which the device does not show. Some entries display wrong values, because "null" or "(currently) not available" is represented by hexadecimal 0xff or integer 255, but JDiag calculates with it. So speed greater then 500km/h is not unusal on idle.
Showing the DTC works okay. On some entires the description is too long and does not scroll, so you have to guess.
Deleting DTC mostly works, for me it failed on the Kawasaki ABS module.
Showing freezed frames (represents the live data from the exact point where a DTC occured) isn´t reliable at all. Sometimes is won´t show data because the DTC was deleted, but the FF data is still there and requestable, sometimes it shows data like "starter switch pressed" but nothing helpful from the remaining 52 values.
Actuator Test was updated a bit on the last release. You can drive the exhaust valve, power up the fuelpump or use a cylinder specific injector. But it does not show the current value, which just would be nice.
In short: It works okay, but not much more. Having several bikes and you´d like to see or delete a DTC, this might be a helpful companion in your garage. Going deep into finding issues with your bike, this won´t give you all the needed information. At least for the manufacturers I have tested.
In the past, there has been the ECU Hacking forum around. Some guys found out how the communication protocol worked for Honda, Kawasaki and Suzuki. So I created a device on my own and found out more and more, how all of this works. Since then I am submitting my ECU data onto my Garmin Virb camera via bluetooth:
My custom adapter(s):
A very old code can be found for Kawasaki here.
From ~2020 on, there will also be OBD II available on most bikes. Or even earlier, it the manufacturer already planned the bike to be future proof. The plug will look like that:
and you might buy an adapter to OBD2, where you can attach an ELM327 such as an OBDLink.
Can I just create an adapter myself for an older bike and attach a cheap chinese ELM327 clone to make it work? No!
The clones don´t support proper reprogramming! It might be possible to use an original OBDLink with a pre-OBD2 bike. But this will only enable the physical communication. So you still need to have a tool or app which changes header data, translates values and calculates independently from the OBD2 standard.
That´s it for now. If you were interested, I can go more into detail