[**DONOTDELETE**]

Have a '91 - 1100 with a rusty tank. Tried milking it but rust came through and its jacking with my carbs. Has anyone gone through this? Whats the best way to remedy this? Does anyone have a tank for sale?

hfd8

 

[The Big Idiot]

Hey, I see you found the right forum. Now go back and add some t & a pic's to your hairy-palms post

 

[2k-otic]

You've got a few options.

1. 
   <LI>You can buy a new tank. Check your local salvage yards or look on ebay. This is the easiest, but most expensive.
   
   <LI>Look for a product called KREEM. You should be able to find it at your local shop. Kreem is 3 part product. The first is an acid etching compound used to remove the rust. The second is a cleaner used to condition the metal for the third an final step. The third step is fuel resitant coating that seals the metal inhibiting further rusting. This method is probably the cheapest, but it can be kind of a pain in the ass. I had a tank that rusted too badly to be saved. The acid ended up eating completely through the tank. That resulted in me going for option one.
   
   <LI>Another option is to try to find a shop that could perform the procedure. Where I live, there is a radiator repair shop that is capable of the task. So that's where I'd start looking if I were you. This is middle of the road on price, and pretty simple for you.

One thing you do need to take into consideration; either of the repair methods will more than like result in the tank needing to be repainted. Acid etching is extremely hard on paint.

Hope this helps you out.

 

[Pod99966]

or go to your local auto parts store and buy a couple of inexpensive inline fuel filters. I had the same problem and after changing out a couple of 3 dollar filters my problem is gone. I keep a couple of filters in line just in case.

 

[MDill]

By "milking" do you mean lining the tank? With a properly done lining rust shouldn't be a problem. I've used the Kreem stuff on other bikes and it seemed to work pretty well, but was kind of a pain. I've heard really good stuff about the POR15 (www.por15.com) tank lining product, I've used some of their other products and it's all been really great stuff. It's also pretty cheap, $24 for the basic kit, $29 if you need to strip out an old liner. I've got inline filters to deal with my slightly rusty tank but the problem with them is they don't catch everything (whenever I pull the carb bowls there's always some really fine rust dust) and they make the fuel lines harder to connect when replacing the tank. When I get off my butt I'm going to use the POR15 kit in my tank.

Matt

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Thanx alot guys. I have tried the Kreem, but I guess I didnt coat as well as I thought. I am doing this over but using a product from Wurth called Rustguard. Suppose to be able to apply over slight rust. I am still going to use phosporic acid to remove rust and etch metal before the Rustguard. Will post the results. I am using the inline filters for a quick fix but hope to repair tank. Live in Houston, cant find a tank in good condition anywhere around here.

 

[2k-otic]

My replacement tank for the 86 came from California...I live in Illinois.

Most salvage shops are hooked up thru a network of other dealers and can put out the word for what they are looking for. Chances are, somebody, somewhere is gonna have what you need.

I understand trying to fix the old one first though. If it doesn't work out for ya though, check out the yards and e-bay for a used tank.

Good luck.

 

[Edster]

Try the rust remover set from yamaha. I used to work at a dealership and that was the best stuff avaliable. Yamaha had a bunch of tanks in the 80's that didn't get rust preventative from the factory, most of them rusted. Instead of replacing the tanks Yamaha came up with the best rust removal treatment. It's around $20 but it works great. You pour in the first bottle and fill the tank to the top with hot water. Let that sit at least a day, drain, and rinse with pressure washer. Pour in 2nd bottle and swish around. It's a neutralizer and water absorber. Your done! I used this method for many tanks along with the other techs at the dealership. It works great for all but the most severly rusted tanks.

 

[Mr rogers]

hey man i just went throught the same problem
put my bike on the road man i love it but this is the last time.....
It sounds as if it is running on three cylinders.
It worked good for the first two days and now it is back to the same old shit like when the atnk was all rusty.
I changed the inline fuel filter new gas drained the carbs many times the third one from the left keeps kicking out bits of rust.
the other three are fine. i have tried everything do not want to take off the road again please help me get it running on four.

 

[gsxrbart]

I installed a sediment bowl off of a tractor or other stationary equipment. It is a clear bowl that lets fuel in but keeps dirt and water out of the carbs. Mine is mounted to the frame boss that holds the factory relays...this has really worked for me. E me if you want photos of it but be patient cause due to my 3rd child being recently born i'm not on the net too much...Bart

 

[yanc]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2k-otic:
You've got a few options.

1. 
   <LI>You can buy a new tank. Check your local salvage yards or look on ebay. This is the easiest, but most expensive.
   
   <LI>Look for a product called KREEM. You should be able to find it at your local shop. Kreem is 3 part product. The first is an acid etching compound used to remove the rust. The second is a cleaner used to condition the metal for the third an final step. The third step is fuel resitant coating that seals the metal inhibiting further rusting. This method is probably the cheapest, but it can be kind of a pain in the ass. I had a tank that rusted too badly to be saved. The acid ended up eating completely through the tank. That resulted in me going for option one.
   
   <LI>Another option is to try to find a shop that could perform the procedure. Where I live, there is a radiator repair shop that is capable of the task. So that's where I'd start looking if I were you. This is middle of the road on price, and pretty simple for you.

One thing you do need to take into consideration; either of the repair methods will more than like result in the tank needing to be repainted. Acid etching is extremely hard on paint.

Hope this helps you out.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Option 4: Instead of using KREEM or other plastic/urethene lining, I've found a product that seems to be more durable, and according to their literature it's permanet. Don't know about the permanent part but I've my tank coated for a couple of years and haven't had any problems.

Yancy
http://www.por15.com/restorationkits.html

 

[twinner]

A few years ago I had a mildly rusted interior on the tank of my gpz550. I took it ot a local radiator shop that also works on automotive gas tanks.

Here's waht they did...


...Bead blasted the interior until the rust was gone.

...used a urethane based material to coat the interior.

...The result is a gasoline resistant, rust-free surface inside my tank.

...It cost about $80.00 for everything to be done.

[ 12-11-2001: Message edited by: Simon Orttan ]</p>

 

[gixxerdingo]

if POR-15's tank liners are anything like their paints, it will be most excellent, my dad used to restore cars, and he used it on every car he ever restored, their paint is badass shit, once it dries, nothing short of mechanical scraping will get it off, this is no kidding, he had spilled some on the garage floor, and 3 years later he went to repaint the floor, and had to use a hammer and chisel to try and pop the old paint off the concrete, and it wound up taking a nice sized chunk of floor along with it.... as a matter of fact, this winter i was gonna take my gas tank off and put a liner on the inside, and spray a coat of clear POR-15 over the outside for some protection