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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Okay, got ECU back, plugged in and now running properly on all cylinders :cool:

But was idling at 4k and then threw up the FI light. :cry:

Read codes, got C63 which is idle speed out of spec. Unplugged the Idle valve & ran it for a short time, then plugged the valve back in and now I have a decent idle at around 1200rpm. Pretty smooth. Got a problem now coz I wanna sync the throttles but 2 of the adjusters are seized and won't come unstuck. So I might give it a go anyway. Hopefully if the 2 cylinders with seized adjusters are close enough then I can adjust the other 2 to match.

Another problem is that it's obviously lean from off idle upto at least 4k I think coz if I blip it, its shoots up and likes to hang there for a bit (I double checked my inlet seals and they're good). So I've ordered the Woolich Racing kit and I'm gonna flash the ECU myself. I've also got a Wideband O2 sensor at my lockup I could use if need be.

578423
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 · (Edited)
Right guys. I have made excellent progress. The engine now starts nicely, idles smooth on all cylinders, the exhaust doesn't smell too rich or lean and the revs don't hang.

I got my kit from Woolich

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I had to take out a couple more blanks from the ECU plug for the Woolich harness

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The front part of the Woolich harness follows the main harness round near the injectors and then plugs into the rest of the Woolich harness that plugs into the interface box and the diagnostics plug.

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I downloaded a tune from someone in New Jersey who has a 750 with a full exhaust system and K&N and has tuned with a wideband sensor.

Then I disabled many things including the idle valve

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Then I capped off the idle valve so it can't affect anything and I synced the throttles

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Managed to get them almost perfect! which I'm very happy about.

But the revs were still hanging a bit when blipped and I knew there were no air leaks and it wasn't lean as the new fuel map had over 40% more fuel at idle (which smelt too rich).

I had a similar problem on my RR where if I revved over 2.5k, it would hang there for a bit before eventually coming back down and I noticed in the manual there was a spike in ignition timing right there.

So I had a look at the timing on the gixxer and it looked like there was too much timing exactly where my revs were hanging (idle upto ~4k on closed throttle). So I changed it:

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I've not ridden the bike so this might get amended but now there is no hanging when I blip, it returns to idle very nicely & I have my RR set up similarly and it rides spot on :) (y)

So obviously without the idle valve, there's no way for the ecu to bring the revs up for fast idle... except there is.
Increasing the timing advance brings the revs up. The ecu advances the base timing according to engine temperature

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So when I start the engine from cold, the ecu has added more timing to keep the revs up and as it warms up, the advance decreases until it gets down to the 3.9 degrees (which is stock @ idle) & ~1300rpm.

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I've now stolen the harness off the RR so I can fit my wideband to the gixxer and see what changes my new map needs

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Also got a TT screen

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Just ignore the middle bolts, I'm waiting on some longer button heads to arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
the race bubble is the shizz... (y)
I think so too. I wanted the tallest screen in town so that I'm protected when I'm on the Motorway (Highway). Plus it looks cool :)
My mate has a Bandit and he won't go over 70 coz he gets windblasted from having no screen. So he finds a car to tail and sits behind it while I'm ducking behind my screen and twisting the throttle (y).
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
I'm sure those bolts will slow you down a little bit. 🤣
Great post, over my head, though. (y)
Thanks dude, lemme know if you want any more info. I'm no tuning guru and this is the first time I've used Woolich but it's quite similar to Micro/Megasquirt that I've used before and the ignition isn't far off the Zeeltronic and Ignitech systems I've had.
The Woolich kit is pretty simple to use (luckily, as there's no forum for support). There's a "MapShare" where guys can upload their maps to share with others, so atm I picked the map that most suits my mods but it will definitely need tweaking using a wideband O2 sensor. Which I fitted today

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The display will sit right in front of the bars and tell me what's going on with the fuelling. I'll adjust the maps until the readings are right all the time and then take the sensor, display and harness off again.


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I think so too. I wanted the tallest screen in town so that I'm protected when I'm on the Motorway (Highway). Plus it looks cool :)
My mate has a Bandit and he won't go over 70 coz he gets windblasted from having no screen. So he finds a car to tail and sits behind it while I'm ducking behind my screen and twisting the throttle (y).

you can see through it as well, had one on my 03 and 05 1k, lotta guys run tinted but they're hard to see through, I like my visibility... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
you can see through it as well, had one on my 03 and 05 1k, lotta guys run tinted but they're hard to see through, I like my visibility... :)
Agreed. I'd consider a light smoke but I definitely want to be able to see through it.
Tinted screens are illegal here but I don't think it's enforced really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Oh man
Speedometer Odometer Vehicle Trip computer Steering part


Very rich. And that's after I pulled 20% fuel. Mad. So now I can start making adjustments. It'll be a long process.

I drained a bit of engine oil & whacked some Seafoam in.

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I ran it for 10 mins and drained it out ready for some fresh oil which is on order.

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When I was adding the seafoam I noticed that the sight glass is brown. I just thought the dealer had overfilled it on the service before I got it.

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I took the circlip off, pulled the glass & seal out and cleaned it up.

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Now I'll be able to see the oil level! Oh you can see the wideband sensor in that photo. Cool. Lucky for me Arrow put a wideband thread in the exhaust instead of the M12 one for the stock narrowband.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Got some new bits

Liquid Drinkware Fluid Cylinder Gas


Westways finest motorcycle oil - which I heard is just Suzuki Ecstar rebranded! Okay I made that up.

Pillion cover

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And a Yoshimura idle valve delete kit to replace the pipe I'd capped off temporarily.

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Not something I'd planned to buy before I found idle sync screws seized.
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 · (Edited)
Right, fitted the Yoshimura idle caps

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Filled the engine with oil and I can now see the level!

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Very handy.

And I ditched the map I downloaded from the internet and started from the stock map instead.
Stock map idle fuelling is around 14.1:1 AFR which is just a touch rich. A much better place to start.
Not sure why the guy from New Jersey is running an extra 40% fuel at idle but that's upto him.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Speedometer Automotive lighting Plant


I've made some conservative changes to the stock fuel maps based on AFR & RPM readings I've seen on videos of modded L1+ 750s on Dynos but I won't know where to go from there until I ride the bike.

(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Got bored when I was waiting for the ECU to come back and painted the lettering on the calipers with some high temp stuff

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The tank plastic/shroud/cover was a little bit loose so I took it off to see what was behind it.

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Not much.

I put the fairings back on in the hopes that the maintenance is done for now. I shouldn't have said that.

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Got some stickers. Coz RaceScreen.

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Also, I remembered that it was E5 in the tank, so I tuned the idle so it's slightly rich on the E5 but should hopefully be stoichiometric for E10. I plan to run E10 coz the government has just introduced E10 this month and made E0 & E5 more expensive to push people over to E10. E10 will be fine for me.

Light Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive lighting



I've finally ordered a new tyre so I took the wheel off ready to take to the tyre shop

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The last owner obviously didn't like Lean.

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