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Discussion Starter #1
I've been thinking about switching to rotella full synthetic. However, the rotella full synthetic only comes in 5w-40 (blue bottle) right? Since I live in florida and it gets hot as balls I want to put in 15w-40, does rotella make a full sythetic 15w-40? Any suggestions? My shifts are loud and clunkly!
 

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I've been thinking about switching to rotella full synthetic.
You may have difficulty switching to a full sythetic that says "rotella" on the container. Rotella is 97% short of being a full synthetic.

There is a loophole in the law that allows shell to put the word "synthetic" on the container even though it's only 3% synthetic.

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry for the confusion but I've been running full synthetics for about 3k now. However, I've heard great things from rotella in terms of shifting. You think it's alright to go with 5w-40 synthetic in florida heat?
 

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Sorry for the confusion but I've been running full synthetics for about 3k now. However, I've heard great things from rotella in terms of shifting. You think it's alright to go with 5w-40 synthetic in florida heat?
5-40 will be fine, you could also go to 15-50 if it's that hot. Just remember rotella is cheap because it's not a full synthetic.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, I'll try it out and see how it feels. Anyone else has any input?
 

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I've been thinking about switching to rotella full synthetic. However, the rotella full synthetic only comes in 5w-40 (blue bottle) right? Since I live in florida and it gets hot as balls I want to put in 15w-40, does rotella make a full sythetic 15w-40? Any suggestions? My shifts are loud and clunkly!
With all due respect, you need to do some research on using a Diesel engine oil in a motorcycle. I know a lot of people use it but think about it for a minute. First a diesel engine produces tons of sludge and therefore the oil has to have lots of anti sludge additives in it. These additives reak havoc on a gasoline engines seals ect... Secondly, a diesel engine only revs to 3500 rpm max! Why would you put a lubricant that is designed for such a low reving engine into a high performance mahcine that revs well past 13K? If rotella or any other diesel oil were the best for your bike wouldn't the best motorcycles in the world be using it. No one in Moto GP or any other motorcycle racing organization uses it.

As far as the different viscosities; 15W-40 is not giving you any better protection at a higher heat range than 5W-40 is. In fact a 5W is going to flow better at start up than a 15W therefore getting through your engine quicker and protecting your engine from more wear. 85% of engine wear happens at start up. If you want high temp protection then chose a full synthic 10W-60. Try Elf Moto Sport 4 Campione. It is awesome stuff and you will see your clunky shifts dissapear as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did some reading and shell rotella changed their formula and it's not approved for use in motorcycles and wet clutch application. As for the different weights I did notice my temps to get higher when I used a 5w as opposed to a 10w. Personally i dont see any point of using a 5w as it's pretty much always hot here. However, as I've been using synthetics for quite some time now I dont want to stop by the rotella synthetic only comes in 5w. So, I'm alittle confused as what to do.
 

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Try the Elf Moto Sport 4 Campione 10W-60. You will never use anything else. I live in Houston, Texas and it gets brutally hot here. 70% of moto gp teams use Elf Lube and fuels. That should tell you something. Check out Elfmoto.us
 

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Using diesel oil in a motorcycle is a great idea. People saying it's dumb are uneducated on the subject.

The newest formulation of Rotella is certified MA, meaning it's acceptable for wet clutches - not that the old formulations were bad, just that Shell didn't pay to have the testing done.
 

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Using diesel oil in a motorcycle is a great idea. People saying it's dumb are uneducated on the subject.

The newest formulation of Rotella is certified MA, meaning it's acceptable for wet clutches - not that the old formulations were bad, just that Shell didn't pay to have the testing done.
I can assure you that I am eucated on the subject! I have been in the lubricants busines for 15+ years. Just because you say you are an engineer doesn't make you educated on the subject either. You are aparently uneducated on the subjects of lubricants. Do you use diesel engine oil in your hi performance machinery? :nono Just one simple point. Why would you use an oil designed to go into an engine that revs to 3-3.5K max in an engine that revs to upwards of 13K? Diesel oil is designed to combat extremely high soot not high heat at high RPMs. If it is such a great idea to use diesel oil in these applications, then why is it not being used in the engines of Moto GP or formula 1?
 

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I can assure you that I am eucated on the subject! I have been in the lubricants busines for 15+ years. Just because you say you are an engineer doesn't make you educated on the subject either. You are aparently uneducated on the subjects of lubricants. Do you use diesel engine oil in your hi performance machinery? :nono Just one simple point. Why would you use an oil designed to go into an engine that revs to 3-3.5K max in an engine that revs to upwards of 13K? Diesel oil is designed to combat extremely high soot not high heat at high RPMs. If it is such a great idea to use diesel oil in these applications, then why is it not being used in the engines of Moto GP or formula 1?
Yes, I use diesel oil in my motorcycles, as do lots of other people, and I'm unaware of any special additives in motorcycle oil which make it appropriate for high rpm use as compared to diesel oil.

Big rig diesel engines cost tens of thousands of dollars and are subject to extreme conditions. The oils for these engines are very robust in terms of their additive package, and as you noted, they have excellent cleansing properties and typically a lot more zinc (high pressure additive) than auto oil, or many motorcycle oils too. The only meaningful complaint I've ever heard about with using diesel oil in a motorcycle is the lack of the MA service rating - which now has been addressed by Rotella.
 

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I use rotella 5w-40 diesel fuel in my kaw 250 and have for the last 3k miles. No problems, it actually works better than the previous FULL synthetic. Havent had a problem with my clutch or anything.

PS - I live in florida too. Didnt like all this cold weather though on really cold days.
 

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Yes, I use diesel oil in my motorcycles, as do lots of other people, and I'm unaware of any special additives in motorcycle oil which make it appropriate for high rpm use as compared to diesel oil.

Big rig diesel engines cost tens of thousands of dollars and are subject to extreme conditions. The oils for these engines are very robust in terms of their additive package, and as you noted, they have excellent cleansing properties and typically a lot more zinc (high pressure additive) than auto oil, or many motorcycle oils too. The only meaningful complaint I've ever heard about with using diesel oil in a motorcycle is the lack of the MA service rating - which now has been addressed by Rotella.
This is like beating a dead horse! MotoGP and Formula 1 engines cost MILLIONS OF DOLLARS! If Deisel Engine oils were so good then they would be using them. They do not! Nor do any other motorcycle racing organization. Use what you want Bro it is your bike. All I am saying is oil is cheap compared to an engine. If you want to use an oil designed for low reving dirty engines go ahead. It just makes sense to use a product specifically developed and tested for your particular application. Good luck with Rotella.
 

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This is like beating a dead horse! MotoGP and Formula 1 engines cost MILLIONS OF DOLLARS! If Deisel Engine oils were so good then they would be using them. They do not! Nor do any other motorcycle racing organization. Use what you want Bro it is your bike. All I am saying is oil is cheap compared to an engine. If you want to use an oil designed for low reving dirty engines go ahead. It just makes sense to use a product specifically developed and tested for your particular application. Good luck with Rotella.

MotoGP engines and what comes in our bikes are nothing alike.

SVS had posted on here a while back about a guy local to him who had purchased an old Desmosedici off the Ducati MotoGP team. He would bring it to local track events for PR type stuff etc etc.

Anyway he said there was tons of prep work that needed to be done before the bike could take to the track. One of them was to preheat the oil, and that at room temperature it was semi-solid in consistency.........their needs are just a tad bit different than ours.
 

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I've been running Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 for quite a few years now, both in a hot-rod oil boiler and my K7 1000. As has been mentioned using quite a few misspelled words, Rotella is not a "pure" synthetic. The highly purified base stocks used to make these types of oils have erased the traditional advantages of pure synthetics, namely far superior high and low temperature performance as measured by pour point and flash point.

Additionally, the additive packages in these "diesel" oils are very robust. Viscosity modifiers, detergents, anti-foaming agents, etc., are some of the best in the industry, plus they have no friction modifiers like molybdenum disulfide which is the ingredient that disagrees with wet clutches. So you get an oil that retains it's additives very well, which makes sense when viewed from the perspective of a trucking company owner who wants the best longevity of his engines coupled with minimizing the expense of oil changes. The other benefit of this association with a much larger industry is lower cost via mass production. The smaller boutique oils like Motul or Elf have no ability to spread costs over large production runs.

Speaking of those other products, the simple fact is: we don't know what oil any MotoGP team runs. What's on the bike is a sticker. What's in the bike is a closely guarded secret that wouldn't translate into a street bike anyway, unless you're keen to run what is likely 0w-0 in your street bike.

And rpm has no bearing on the subject at all, assuming adequate flow. The shearing of oil between cam lobes and buckets or between cylinder walls and rings is a function of valve spring pressure and of combustion pressure forcing the rings outward against the cylinder walls, not rpm. It's becoming more and more understood that the vast majority of engine wear occurs at startup, which makes sense since the very physics of lubrication prevents the metals in an operating engine from ever actually touching each other.

Or you can spend $16/quart on whatever you want and ride down the road swerving around all the imaginary broken down bikes whose owner's were foolish enough to run "diesel" oil. Cuz.... you know.... that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm contemplating rotella not as a cost effected measure but it seems to smooth out the shifting. Plus, at 16$ a gallon I dont mind changing my oil every 1000miles.
 

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I'm contemplating rotella not as a cost effected measure but it seems to smooth out the shifting. Plus, at 16$ a gallon I dont mind changing my oil every 1000miles.
When I said trucking companies want to "minimize the expense of oil changes", I didn't mean the expense of buying the oil alone. Having a truck off the road costs a ton, having to do it more often than is necessary costs another ton, then having the truck off the road over and over costs another ton. So they're interested in extending the drain intervals as well as the per unit cost of the oil. They do this with Rotella because they've found it to be a very high quality oil. Based on the results of their continuing oil analysis programs, they keep pushing the drain intervals farther and farther out.

A 1,000 mile change schedule is pretty excessive. If you do decide to do it that way, take a sample of the used oil and send it to Blackstone Labs for analysis. They'll be able to tell you how degraded your oil is and how much life it would have had left in it. When they tell you it could have gone another 4,000 miles easily, you will have paid for 2 of your oil changes with one $25 kit.
 
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