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I'm sure it'll last just fine since most change it before 4k.
I'm sure it will too. However Rotella T puts up just as good if not better wear numbers on used oil analysis than T6, I believe is (a lot) cheaper and if the engine is less noisy I'd prefer that as well.

My mantra is, if all else is equal, run the thicker oil.

Never had a chance to use Rotella as Shell markets their oils here under the Rimula name and I am not sure it they are identical products to the US Rotella ones.
 

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Run the recommend oil viscosity by the manufacturer. Running the wrong viscosity is not doing anyone any good. What is the point of having a high viscosity oil in a motorcycle during cold start ups? And running a too high of a viscosity oil at higher temperature will not do justice either
 

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According to Suzuki for most GSX-Rs, dependent on temperature, that could be anywhere from 10W30 to 20W50 (including 15W40).

5W40 is not recommended by Suzuki.
 

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According to Suzuki for most GSX-Rs, dependent on temperature, that could be anywhere from 10W30 to 20W50 (including 15W40).

5W40 is not recommended by Suzuki.

It also gives a background for climate and temperatures too right?


I'll agree on the 5 VI, but that is also 5 VI at freezing temps. All in all, it is more so dependent on a few things.


The cruisers with hydraulic lifters are more prone to issues with the wrong oil viscosity for a few reasons.

I thought I read a Suzuki manual that stated that though you can get away with certain weight oils if there are no other ones available, you should only do so temporarily and then change it. I may be very wrong on that one and have it confused.

I do know though, that one stated that oil rated for diesel use- without friction modifiers, is acceptable.
 

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Yes, the temperature graph for different oil weights is in every Suzuki FSM and owners manual I have looked at. Suzuki recommend 10W40 for the USA and if not available in "other countries" the oil weights recommended in the temperature/weight chart. However, one could safely use the different grades that are optimal for the temperature range experienced and all else being equal expect longer engine life. 5W is not needed in Florida's temperate climate.

If Rotella T6 were a true synthetic and performed liked one I wouldn't have bothered saying anything. But the facts are that most of the used oil analysis reports that I have seen have Rotella T outperforming the T6. The Rotella T is a lot cheaper as well.

If the bike was being used in sub freezing temperatures I'd definitely consider the T6. But if I could get my hands on a true synthetic group IV PAO in the 0W30 range I'd go for that. Rotella T6 is a group III with viscosity modifiers added. That's why it shears pretty quickly and doesn't stay in grade as long as a true synthetic.

It's not going to make much of a difference to the life of your engine between the two. But why pay close to twice the price for slightly less performance?
 

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I'm sure it will too. However Rotella T puts up just as good if not better wear numbers on used oil analysis than T6, I believe is (a lot) cheaper and if the engine is less noisy I'd prefer that as well.

My mantra is, if all else is equal, run the thicker oil.

Never had a chance to use Rotella as Shell markets their oils here under the Rimula name and I am not sure it they are identical products to the US Rotella ones.
Maybe it was just my bike in particular, but my WC 750 shifted like shit with the 15W-40. The 5W-40 T6 made shift seamlessly.

I used the bike as a daily rider to work and back, so it saw 2 cold starts a day. That's probably why the thinner oil worked better for me.
 

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Shifting quality does seem to be variable (not consistent) sometimes between oils and bikes.

The climate in Victoria BC is pretty cold in winter. Florida and Sydney on the other hand are much warmer climates. I probably wouldn't be using a 15W40 in winter there, even though it's probably inside the temperature chart. The T6 breaks down to a 30W pretty quickly so for winter in BC it would probably be perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I am not sure is it me or my bike really shifts better today with rotella.
I kept my mobile1 so I can send it for testing as well as rotella after 3k miles and compare it.
As far as viscosity goes. I would prefer to stay at lower viscosity as I use my bike as commuter, even though I like in Cali, engines dont like cold starts.
Long time ago I remember conversation with one guy that had some experience in oil industry, and he mentined that rotella t6 5w-40 is thicker than mobil1 same grade. (there are brackets where viscosity falls in so same grade oil does not have same exact viscosity.)
iF anything, i was worry that rotella is gonna be to thick.
 

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Well the used oil analysis results tell all and the T6 rarely beats the T convincingly. Although I'll look with interest now how many are using the T in colder climate and how it compares to the T6.

Again, there's only a minor difference in performance. Just a bigger difference in price.

Most of the heavy duty engine oils from the major oil companies do a similar job. The economics of it make using the high priced synthetics pretty much a waste of time for anything less than racing.

The only time I would consider an oil like 300V is for endurance racing. For racing a production/superbike the most important thing is to keep the oil in the correct operating temperature window. If you can't modify the bike and it's going to exceed it use something like 300V. An oil cooler and proper oil temperature control is a bullet proof approach for racing.
 

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Is there anybody that was using this oil for longer period of time and how many miles? Or anybody that you know.
What is viscosity compared to full synthetic motorcycle oils, like mobil 1 or motul or amsoil?
I have been using 15w40 rotella in my '89 for 60,000+ miles!!!! Yes ,60,000! When i did tear it down at 60k, I could still see crosshatch marks on the cylinder walls! There was no abnormal signs from using this oil! This oil has extra additives and detergents to help your engine. I'll never be a sheep and believe the hype that the bike oil manufacturers want to make you believe, so that YOU SPEND money to buy their overpriced oil.
 

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BTW, I swung by Wallyworld last weekend to pick up some grass seed and passed through the automotive section where I usually pick up Rosella T6 from. They had the giant 2.5 GALLON containers for sale for $30 so I grabbed one, should be good enough for about 3 oil changes I'd imagine. I think they are normally like $53 retail.
 

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I picked some up yesterday to get my ninja 250 restarted. PO dropped it and the rear brake busted out the sight glass. What you get for the price? You can't beat it... Would I use it for performance? Nope. It may be fine, but I'd rather spend the money for motorcycle specific oil.
 

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I have been using T6 5w40 for years now. I put it in my K5 1000 and my vw tdi. I was using Mobil 1 15w50 for a while and found clutch slippage. Changed to to rotella t6 and slippage disappeared. Great oil and a great price.
 

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The site isn't opening for me. What does it say about diesel oils?
Just the usual stuff Ironhead.

Interesting you can't open the site. If it's a geographic domain thing, I use Tor Park for that and set the domain for the country that it will allow to see it.

Some of of the guys were trying to find an equivalent for Rotella in Australia. For some reason Shell are very secretive if Rotella is available here but rebadged under the Rimula name.

The pictures were from a guy in newport beach, ca and a TL1000 using "15W-40 dino style (Rotella), this is after 500-ish passes at the strip, 100K km..."

and

"ill ive run is rotella, sam can tell you what my gears looked like after 65K miles using this great (and inexpensive) oil."
 

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I'm using Chevron (Caltex here) Delo 400 15W40 oil as it is the exact same formulation as the US and for which there is lots of used oil analysis data on. Just bought 40 litres (just over 10 gallons for you US guys) a couple of days ago.
 

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Just the usual stuff Ironhead.

Interesting you can't open the site. If it's a geographic domain thing, I use Tor Park for that and set the domain for the country that it will allow to see it.

Some of of the guys were trying to find an equivalent for Rotella in Australia. For some reason Shell are very secretive if Rotella is available here but rebadged under the Rimula name.

The pictures were from a guy in newport beach, ca and a TL1000 using "15W-40 dino style (Rotella), this is after 500-ish passes at the strip, 100K km..."

and

"ill ive run is rotella, sam can tell you what my gears looked like after 65K miles using this great (and inexpensive) oil."
I was on my phone so that could have been the problem. Got it to open on my desktop.

Insides look amazing. I use regular Rotella in my lawn mowers and the T6 in my jeep cherokee.
 
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