I have jumped it in the past.. I always get this wrong, if it affects mapping paper clipped I dunno? far as if it's left activated, will it remain in a neutral map? 1st gear map? not sure but I have done it on both FI and carbed SRADs, bike starts, runs and rides? my guess is taping the switch is same as jumping it with paper clip and taping it up?
HOWEVER the bike doesn't behave normally as in starts in gear so careful there, but if I do remember right the 98 carbed SRAD works funky anyways? I don't need to pull clutch in to start unless stand is down which I believe is wrong, we just went over this a month ago and I cannot remember exactly but the Busa needs the clutch in every start no matter what? I believe that's standard for all SRADs as well? not 100%
haven't tried to start the FI bike in years but I know I just put a new controls on it and clutch sensor could have sworn I put a new one on the 600 too and now I think of it just now I am wondering if I connected it backwards?
the 98 600 just has 2 leads with thin factory L plugs, like a brake light, they are separate and the same size so they can plug in either way.. I might go switch those around today see it that makes a difference with the no clutch starts?
everything works like a charm on that one save the intermittent fuel light always blinking cuz there is a poor job of repairing a break in the lead off the fuel pump lead bout 4" down from base.. my pizz poor job.. I really din't know how I wanted to attack it so I pinched and taped, Imma cut the insulation at the break, twist wire the newfangled way solder then a couple 3 layers of heat shrink, really like to do all new leads on that pump but I dunno how to remove those funky sealed up connections on the base of the pump where they go through into the tank, is that leaded?
for whatever reason all 4 leads are hard, no flex at all, more than likely what broke the one wire lifting tank and sich? eventually other wires will break by lifting tank for tunes ups, vibration what not, leave me stranded.. should source a faulty pump with good soft leads and connector, the racer who ran it before me busted the latch on the connector so I zip tie that, a new pump would solve that as well.. thinkin bout that zip ties it may have dislodged a connector as I had to scootch over the leads to get the tie in between them to cinch it down?
as good as that bike runs its still very difficult for me to get motivated to do this small fix, draining the tank, yadda yadda, praying to every God in the universe it seals back up.. all that stuff is brand new, don't really wanna budge it, leave well enough alone... lol
I'll switch those clutch sensor leads around when I get a minute here soon and get back to this thread, that very well may be why that 600 does what it does, start without clutch engaged? could it be jumped being connected backwards? one would think not as it wouldn't start with clutch in if that were the case? gonna switch em anyways..worth a shot, I can also paper clip it and see how it behaves, need to get it out on the street anyways circulates fluids so forth, I should raise that tank and at least solder that light lead as well..
wanna take that Fox race shock off and have it rebuilt or something, its very hard and won't dial out, slap a good 750 stocker on there call it good, I see em for $20+ bucks on the auction site..
