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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone done this them selves on a 93-95 750? i have the workshop manual and it seems like a straight forward job, just wondering if i really do need any special tools?

Would also appreciate any other good tips
 

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I fixing to take on the same task. I've bought the seals just haven't had the time to do the deed. I plan on doing it next week end, and your right it looks to be a straight forward project. So any input would, like trojan said, be appreciated.
 

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Are you doing anything besides seals and new oil?

If not, dont mess with the allen bolt in the bottom, the book says remove it but its not necessary.

The book also says you need that compressor thing but its easy enough without it, once you unscrew that big cap on the top hold the dampner adjustment peice with a pair of soft jawed pliers (regular ones will work, but try not to scratch it all up) and unscrew the cap off of it. as far as putting it back together lift the center rod up as far as it will go and unstall springs and spacers and stuff and put a little sideways pressure on the spring to to keep the rod from falling down then set the cap over the rod/dampner adjustment piece, the rod should be sticking out of the cap just enough to get it with the pliers, hold it tight and screw the cap down on the rod, then lift the outer tube up and screw it to the cap.

I just went through mine, there not as complicated as people like to make them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i'm going to change all there is to be changed except the springs.... was supposed to do it last weekend... buuuuut.... i found out that changing to dot 5.1 brake fluid was much easier.. hehe Gonna take the day of from work friday and get it done
 

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A couple suggestions......

1) Be sure and note the direction the seal goes in when you remove the bad seal.

2) Be sure and cover the end of the slider tube with some heavy gauge plastic before you slide the new fork seal on. The slider tube ends are very sharp and will cut your new seal in a heartbeat if you are not careful. If you put the new seal on in the wrong direction and then try to remove it you will most likely cut the new seal...... hence suggestion #1.
 

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Recommend that you change the bushings while you have everything apart, if you haven't already got that ticked off on your list. Cheers !
 

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Recommend that you change the bushings while you have everything apart, if you haven't already got that ticked off on your list. Cheers !
Yeah when I re-worked my forks I used OEM seals, Race Tech .90Kg. Springs, Race Tech Gold Valves and Race Tech Super Slick Bushings......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
HELP!!!!!! i'v got the forks of the bike, dismantled almost everything.... but no frikkin way can i get the forks seperated.. it says in the manual, "pull slowly apart to make oil seal come loose) no way they are comming loose.. so right now i'm stranded with 2 forks that are non working..

I removed the dust seal and the oil seal metall clip and still and cant get it seperated...


Any ideas? i'm thinking brutal force to get them seperated:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A couple suggestions......

1) Be sure and note the direction the seal goes in when you remove the bad seal.
For me it seems like the old oil seals where in upside down.. not sure, but one of the sides has a cone on it and the other is kinda raised a bit... i would think that the cone side goes in first to the outer tube...? when i removed the old ones it was placed with the cone outwards/downward...

Any opinions?
 

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Look for the small numbers on one end of the seal, they go towards the outside.

As far as pulling them apart, you have the cap and the valve pulled off the top right? If so, then push the inner tube in a couple of inches and slap it back against the seal like a slide hammer but not violently enough to hurt anything just hard enough to get them to pop apart after a couple smacks.
 
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