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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched just about every website and see that alot of people had to replace the clutch push rod seal, but NO ONE says how they did it, and my local shop wont tell me how to. I figured this should be in the shop manual but it isnt, it only tells you to pull the rod out then it stops. Has anyone done this? The local shop in Des Moines wants $1,200 to replace this $5 seal, and I figured winter is coming soon so it gives me some one on one time with the bike. Any help is appreciated Thanks fellow riders!
BTW its a 2001 GSXR 750
 

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I know on my bike the seal has to come out from the backside as there is a lip on the front of the case. Your bike is probably the same which means you have to remove the clutch to access it. It's a lot of work which is why I haven't replaced mine.:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea I was told I had to take the lower casing off. alot of oil comes out from the hole that the actual push rod goes into it when its running. (Chain broke and snapped the old push rod into 2 pieces) that was the only damage and I looked to see if its leaking anywhere else around that seal and it isnt. Hit me if im wrong but would RTV silicone work as a temp fix? or could this harm it :hammer
 

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I just replaced my seal last winter. You will have to drop the engine. But once you get the engine out, it takes about 10 minutes to do. The hardest part of the job is dropping and re-installing the engine.
I got mine all back together, went to go on a test ride and she wouldn't go in gear. Turns out i didnt put the shift forks EXACTLY where they need to be. Had to drop the engine again.

If you dont have a manual, get one!!

If you need any more advice, PM me.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys! I have never pulled the engine before, so ill prob be using alot of tape to mark where things go. Are there any tutorials around that have on EXACTLY how to do all this or at least pulling the motor? Cause im guessing you have to flip the motor upside down when you go to take off the lower casing :dunno :scratch
 

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drain all the oil and coolant before u dissassemble if u dont want a big mess...trust me...my chain also took the liberty of making artwork out of my sprocket cover and waterpump :p
 

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you dont have to drop the motor or split the cases to replace the clutch pushrod seal. i replaced mine in literally a minute. get a regular seal puller. pull the seal. push new seal in. i used a socket that was just a bit smaller than the seal and gently rapped on it with a little hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Am I supposed to grease the new seal before I put it in? I have white grease if that wont work what should I use? or can someone tell me how to install it once I get to the old one out, ex: just slide it in lol :scratch
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Install the seal dry. When you go to install the pushrod put a little grease on the pushrod itself.:cheers
ok thanks alot man! Pulling the engine tomorrow morning and hopfully it only takes me the 1 day... been since July with out riding cause of this seal :cursing
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So good news: I replaced the seal and it only took me about a day and a half. Bad news: now the f*cking motor will only go from neutral to first and back! WTF! :wtf :cursing
 

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you dont have to drop the motor or split the cases to replace the clutch pushrod seal. i replaced mine in literally a minute. get a regular seal puller. pull the seal. push new seal in. i used a socket that was just a bit smaller than the seal and gently rapped on it with a little hammer.
Its a relief to see this post. I have a 1988 GSX1100 with the same issue. I have the new seal from bike bandit. I do not have the seal puller, I am 60 miles from nearest autozone type store. I will bend the tip of a old electrical tester to mimick the seal puller and pull or scrape it out gently. Thanks for this post.
 

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This is a simple fix for this problem and it last indefinitely, cost about $15
You will need:
1/8 x 1" fender washer
1/4 ID o-ring
Permatex
15/64 drill bit
super glue
 

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After you remove the clutch actuator cover, pull the rod out and clean the seal with 409 or grease lightening.
Slide the o-ring on to the rod and dab a little bit of super glue on to the side of the o-ring that contacts the old rod seal so it will stick to the old seal, slide the rod with the o-ring in the old seal, leave it for a few minuets so the o-ring sticks.
 

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Install the push rod with the washer, press the washer in to the Permatex and leave it overnight, after it is dry remove the rod and check the new seal and make sure it has stuck tight, grease the rod and put everything back together.

I know this is not the correct way to repair this problem but it works very well and cost about $1190 less than pulling the motor and replacing a $5 part.
 

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