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Ex-Lady Supermod
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Quick question, it's a little bit tricky but hope you can help me, ok the wires from the stator came off the connector, is there any way to figure out which wire goes where ( or they can be in any order) hope someone can help me. Here's a pic...
Thanks.
Don't see a picture so I don't know if this is at all helpful plus, I hate electrical stuff. I even failed "general electricity" in High School soooooo.

NOTE: this is from a 1998 SRAD thread so :dunno

For anyone doing this, the order of the 3 similar colored wires (I thought they were always yellow, but the diagram in the last post says black) do NOT matter.

A regulator / rectifier converts 3 phase AC power to single phase DC. IF this were an electric motor we were talking about, then you would have the potential for it to run backwards, but that is not the case.
 

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i will be doing my stator early next week, it puked, had to push it home

stator and regulator as well as gasket cost me 100 dollars shipped, the stator looks like what other people have posted on the site, i will post pics and a review when done, Im moving the regulator to the side when i install it, my regulator is good, but i will swap them both while im there

PS, i did the testing on am not getting the needed 65 vac from the stator, but im showing no shorts to ground, so its an obvious fried unit
 

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i got my parts from racetech electric, the stator looked great, the rectifier looked chinese manufactured

worked well, but i had my reservations, and 2k miles later the rectifier died

wires, plugs, harness and stator are all fine

so i ordered up a mosfet unti to swap into the bike, im going to bypass the std harness on the bike and make one up and go directly to the battery with it
 

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Generally we recommend staying away from cheap eBay stuff, as it is usually Chinese knockoffs that will cause more harm than good.
I contacted the ebay seller and they said

"We have sold hundreds of the NEW! SUZUKI GSXR750 GSX-R750 GSXR 750 STATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR GASKET and we rarely have issues with them as they are made of good quality. Thank you for your interest. Have a great day.

- m.j.zee"

I was hoping someone already bought an ebay one before and wanted to know if they were any good.
 

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Do you have any tricks for getting the airbox off of the fuel injectors? Unscrewing those four bolts was a major pain!

Be sure to screw your new stator in REALLY tight! Or use locktite. If it loosens, more damage will incur.
A long screwdriver and not over-tightening really helps with the clamps on the fuel injectors. I usually get two from the left and two from the right and hold a finger on one hand behind the clamp bolt while using the screwdriver in the other hand.

Again, over-tightening is not your friend.

With the stator, there should be proper torque values for attaching the new one, and blowing out the holes with carb cleaner should remove the oil so your lock-tight gets a good grip. But if you over-tighten into that magnesium cover, you may find you need a new cover.
 

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Anyone had issues with leaking oil from the grommet on a replaced stator?
Put a new one in from http://www.regulatorrectifier.com, with some gasket goo around the inside-top of the grommet (plus a new OEM gasket and cleaned the contacting surfaces) but it started leaking about 2 weeks after getting the bike back on the road...:S

Really don't want to have to pull it apart again...
 

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Did the exact same thing .Used a '13 used stator with the new RR that suzuki used in DL1000.
This RR is a serial one.Suzuki Part # 32800-31J00 Shindengen SH847AA.
No more burned stators! I moved the RR under the rear fender , near pasengers footpegs
 

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Adding to OG post instructions I added some of my personal experiences.. things I learned.. and info I found useful while doing this replacement


Not sure what company you plan to go with when replacing but I replaced both rectifier and regulator (Get mosfet technology when choosing your regulator, Not sure if there is only mosfet or not) I just remember that getting mosfet was one of the things I had read and was told to do when I replaced mine.. I went with Ricks motorsports rectifier and stator. I wanna say I ordered from revzilla maybe? cant remember exactly.. and another thing! If this is your first time doing this.. When you get the first 3 bolts off the stator.. Take pics of how that washer(I want to say its got a bow to it and doesn't sit flat), gear, and the little aluminum rod-spacer type thing go back together. Then, when you get that out and the actual stator cover taken off take a pic of how the tiny L bracket and wires inside stator are seated(Up or Down L)And when you think you're sure look over it and the info sources you're using and make sure you are correct! Then use some Loctite for that tiny L bracket! You don't want that coming off and or rattling inside your stator housing. I would also recommend going with woodward's metal gasket.

I chose the metal gasket because it claimed reusable(Not sure how long or how many times) because I had to go back and loc tite the L bracket (due to me being able to hear it slightly rattle after I put stator assembly back together and rode for a day) so it made more sense to me to buy a metal gasket because I just ordered and installed an OEM gasket and was now going to trash it due to my fuck up was just going to have buy another gasket after i applied loc tite. I got a peace of mind knowing that if.. I did fuck up on it or if i had to change stator again i wouldnt have to buy another gasket that would over time disintegrate and make my life harder by having to make sure it was scraped off completely and the mating surface was spotless of old gasket remnants.


The reason i was worried about having to possibly replace stator again is because i bought a used bike(Once a theft recovery..Big mistake) from a good friend for pretty cheap on payments and he knew nothing about bikes had said "it just fucking dies when it wants) so I replaced battery immediately after buying not knowing that replacing stator.. Rectifier..and battery are HIGHLY suggested to do at same time.
 
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