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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I thought i would share some pics of how to remove the stator as Ive seen a lot of threads about it and couldn't find it in the service manual.

Well my symptoms where
1. heard a small pop when I had stopped and a decrease in revs for no reason.
2. 30mins later could not start the bike
3. would clutch start but would only run for 10 secs
4. volt meter at the battery terminals where reading 12.5v when the bike was running @ 5000RPM so it showed the bike had a problem with the charging system

First thing

I had alook at the rectifier too see if it was burnt out of if the wiring was burnt
rectifier.jpg

After that I removed the fuel tank and also the air filter to get to the top of the engine. This is covered in the service manual.

once the air filter is off you will see the top of the engine with some connectors you will see alot of connectors, There are 2 that you are after. the rectifier (if you want to replace that) and the Stator wires.
top engine.jpg

once you have unplugged the stator wires (yellow wires) then you can start taking off the cover by unbolting the started idler gear cover and generator cover these bolts are 8mm. There is also another bolt by itself on the generator cover that I'm not sure what it does but u don't need to unbolt it (it might be for the Flux Capacitor add on).

cover.jpg

Once you unscrew the bolts take off the idler gear cover first due to a bolt being hidden behind the gears. I took it off by getting a small 3inch flat tip behind the cover and removing it that way. Make sure you don't drop any washers that are from the idler gear.

Once that it taken out you will see the bolt it is also a 8mm and undo the bolt
idler gear.jpg

After that is done then you can start taking off the Generator cover. It is magnetized and will take abit to get off. Also if you aren't using a bike stand you will loose abit of oil. I have heard that you can stop the loss of oil by using a bike stand. I ended up just using the kick stand and you will need something to catch the oil in. I separated the cover by just using the trusty 3inch flat tip and working my way around the generator cover. Also don't forget to pry the cover from the idler gear assembly too.

Once it is freed remember the yellow wire connector we unplugged? Well that is connected to the stator and to get the cover off and away from the fairing feed the wiring down to the stator so that the cover and stator are free from the bike.

Once you have the stator cover and wiring free from the bike the Stator is held onto the cover by 3 Allen key screws and also one holding the wiring loom in place.

Stator.jpg

once the bolts are undone you are free to check for damage. As you can see on mine it has burnt the wiring.

Well hope this helps people and anyone want to add anything i missed out please tell me.

Also i hope this gets put as a sticky.
 

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Very nice. I just did this last week.

Do you have any tricks for getting the airbox off of the fuel injectors? Unscrewing those four bolts was a major pain!

Be sure to screw your new stator in REALLY tight! Or use locktite. If it loosens, more damage will incur.

Loren
 

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Here's a trick to remove those three stubborn bolts that secure the coil inside the stator cover. Flip the cover over, temporarily install a longer bolt where illustrated, and you can wrench on the inner coil bolts without having to try and put it in your lap.

This is shown on a 1000...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you talking about the clamps that clamp the airfilter to the throttle bodies? That was not to bad I only had to do the 2 outer ones on each side. Also pop out the plastic grommits or what ever you want to call them on the frame . That's why there is a hole in the frame so u can get a screw driver in there
 

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Great pics man, going through the same thing right now with replacing stator and makin sure its really bad mine has two black areas on coils.
 

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Arent those 3 yellow stator wires part of the wiring harness?? or are they just routed up to where it connects to the rectifier?
 

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Thanks for this. I had been looking for a write up like this one and yes there are a lot of us k6 going through this problem:(
 

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Arent those 3 yellow stator wires part of the wiring harness?? or are they just routed up to where it connects to the rectifier?
They lead up to a connector that plugs into the main wiring harness.
 

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Sticky!!!
 

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nice wright up.
 

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Do you have any tips to getting the idler gears back where they are supposed to be? The first time took me at least 3 hours, I got a sunburn I was outside so long. The second time was much less but still an utter pain.
 

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Do you have any tips to getting the idler gears back where they are supposed to be? The first time took me at least 3 hours, I got a sunburn I was outside so long. The second time was much less but still an utter pain.
Straight forward really. Dont try and put the whole idler gear AND bearing and cover in at the same time. I just put the gear in first (dont forget the washer behind it - it usually sticks in place with a bit of oil) which means you can rotate the engine side (the starter is pretty fixed and wont spin) to get the gear in place. Once its located you can slip the bearing and shaft in along with the cover attached. Easy. I too tried to get it all in together at once and quickly worked out it wasnt going to go very easily. Took me about 2 mins to get it all in.
 

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did you do anything with the rectifier? all this stuff is just for the stator right?

and I guess is there a way to tell which one maybe acting up or do you just have to make a guess as to which one maybe acting up?
 

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did you do anything with the rectifier? all this stuff is just for the stator right?

and I guess is there a way to tell which one maybe acting up or do you just have to make a guess as to which one maybe acting up?
Yeah, this thread is just for the stator. The RegRec is a separate unit.

Its possible to have any part in your charging system fail, be faulty or have an issue. Or a combination of problems. I replaced a battery after the RR fried it. Then replaced the RR. But the root cause of the issue (I believe) was the stator dying slowly so had to replace that as well.

You can definitely test as to where the problem might lie. Easiest way is to start from the beginning and work your way from there (depending on what your symptoms are). Check the stator. If thats fine, check the RR. If thats fine check the battery (could do this one first). All the tests are in a couple of pages of the suzuki service manual. Very straight forward with a basic multimeter. I have a fear of auto electrics and I managed to do this easy as. Its very very simple.
 
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